Looking for recommendations on what suspension parts I should replace on my 2004 LC w/304,000 miles. No front end work has ever been done that I can remember. Prefer OEM parts - looking for a smooth ride. This is my daily driver and I rarely ever take it off road. Thanks
Suspension Kit for 2004 LC (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 2004LC
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
When you say suspension kit are you meaning a lift kit or just replacing parts due to wear/age? For suspension, I'd just inspect all the bushings and joints - upper and lower control arms, sway bars front and rear, diff bushing, etc. Outside of suspension there's plenty of other things - hubs, CV's.
- Thread starter
- #3
Just replacing parts due to wear and age. Thank you for your reply. I thought I remembered seeing a parts list awhile back but it might have been in another site/forum. Found this on an older post - “Most likely, given the age, you'll need to replace most of the rubber parts (upper/lower control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, rear upper and lower control arms and sway bar bushings). You may need upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends, but you should be able to inspect them. You can rebuild your CV joints if the boots are torn, no need to replace them unless you ran them dry. Definitely repack your wheel bearings and check the hubs for play on the axle shafts.”
Assuming that at this mileage your iFS aka Independent Front Suspension system is still factory, I would recommend the following to be replaced:
- New shocks.
- UCA - it will include all new bushings and new UBJ, more convenient.
- LCA - it will include all new bushings and new LBJ, more convenient.
- New wheel bearings.
- New CVs.
- Replace front diff seal while of the new CV axle while it is out.
- New drive flange to match new zero wear CV axle spline.
- New sway bar links.
- New brake rotors and pads.
- Flush the old brake fluid and put in new one doesn’t matter DOT3 or 4 or 5.
This is just the IFS, clunks not guaranteed as you need to address steering rack bushings, from diff bushings, motor and transmission mounts.
Good luck and keep us posted.
- New shocks.
- UCA - it will include all new bushings and new UBJ, more convenient.
- LCA - it will include all new bushings and new LBJ, more convenient.
- New wheel bearings.
- New CVs.
- Replace front diff seal while of the new CV axle while it is out.
- New drive flange to match new zero wear CV axle spline.
- New sway bar links.
- New brake rotors and pads.
- Flush the old brake fluid and put in new one doesn’t matter DOT3 or 4 or 5.
This is just the IFS, clunks not guaranteed as you need to address steering rack bushings, from diff bushings, motor and transmission mounts.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Enthusiastically agree having just done all of this. The front end is warn out on any of these around the 200K mile mark... This 50% free shipping deal of Black Friday was the best for getting all of this (including a steering rack & pump) .. huge Huge savings. Also.. I don't think a land cruiser specialist is really needed.. my Sunoco old time mechanic did all of this for me no problem. You need the specialist when diagnosing which one of these many components is causing the issue.. but I believe more cost effective to fire the parts cannon at the whole front end around 200K miles .. using the deep discount OEM parts sale once a year .. and your local mechanic.. at better rates. .. just my opinion ofcourse.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
@2004LC
Since I'm going through this myself (for my son's 2000 LX470), I thought I'd add my 2¢:
In order of importance to handling, not ride quality, I am replacing
1. Rack & Pinion (steering rack) (if its bushings are gone, and you elect not to replace just the bushings)
2. Grommet (mount bushing) for Steering Gear (rack and pinion), regardless of what you do with the rack and pinion
» Seal Kit (for steering gear), if you elect not to replace the rack)
3. Tie Rod End assemblies (comes with nut and cotter pin)
4. Boot, for steering gear (2 Req'd), 45535-60010
5. Clamp (outer), (for steering gear boot 45535-60010) (2 Req'd), 96134-52600 (supersedes 90467-26002)
6. Clamp (inner), (for steering gear boot 45535-60010) (2 Req'd), 90460-62006
7. Cushion, link assembly, 90948-01003
8. Bushing assembly, link (2 Req'd), 48820-60032
9. Bushing, (2 R'eqd), front stabilizer bar, 48815-60111
For ride quality (and, to a lesser degree for me, improved handling):
Upper control arm assembly LH/RH, 48630-60010/48610-60030
Nut, castle (2 Req'd), 90171-14010 (not included w/ arm ass'y)
Cotter pin (2 Req'd), 95381-03025 (not included w/ arm ass'y)
Lower control arm assembly LH/RH, 48640-60010/48620-60010
Bushing, for lower control arm (not included in the control arm), 48655-60010
Nut, castle (2 Req'd), 90171-18003 (not included w/ arm ass'y)
Cotter pin (2 Req'd), 90252-04009 (not included w/ arm ass'y)
» Note: Toyota does not supply the ball joints separate from the control arms. Control arm bushings are supplied separately. If you elect to replace the ball joints with aftermarket bearings, you should also replace the bushings, due to age and wear.
Bushing, upper control arm (4 Req'd), 48632-60010
Bushing, lower control arm (not the separate bushing listed above) (2 Req'd), 48654-60010
For general maintenance (you can't reach these unless the parts above are removed, so, given your mileage, you should replace them while they are accessible):
CV axle (front drive shaft) (2 Req'd), 43430-60040
» If you do not elect to replace the CV Axle:
Boot kit for CV axle (2 Req'd), 04427-60121
» this grease is to supplement the grease included in the boot kits, which is less than specified in the service manual:
Inner joint grease, either 90999-94192 (110g) or 90999-94115 (115g) (black) (both are included in the boot kit)
Outer joint grease, 90999-94316 (150g) (yellow)
» You will find different part numbers for this grease, depending on the supplier. The above is Raremax grease, Shell Stamina (90999-94135), and Raremax (90999-94131) is also supplied in some kits.
Note:
» the service manual specifies inner joint capacity at 293-303g (the kit is at least 68g [2.5-oz] short)
» the service manual specifies outer joint capacity at 368-378g (the kit is at least 68g [2.5-oz] short)
» Moly grease tubs are usually 16-oz. If you elect to use non-Toyota grease, you'll need (3) 16-oz tubs, for both axles, to fill the minimum volumes.
Dust cover (inner joint) (2 Req'd), 41336-35020
Dust seal (outer joint) (Note: this is specified in the service manual as non-reusable, but not listed in the EPC)
» NOTE: whether you replace or reboot the CV axle, you will need the following:
Seal, differential LH, 90311-47013
Seal, differential RH, 90311-47012
Gasket, plug, drain (and fill, for differential), 12157-10010 (never reuse) (same as rear and transmission/transfer)
Gasket, drive flange, 43422-60070 (should be replaced every time the drive flange is removed)
» For front wheel hub (these only need to be replaced if worn, otherwise, clean & lubricate the bearings and replace only the rear grease seal):
Bearing, outer (wheel), 90080-36067
Bearing inner (wheel), 90080-36098
Seal, inner (wheel), 90311-70011
Drive flange (if worn, or if you elect to replace the CV axle), 43421-60030
» The following parts are listed for reference only. Typically, some of these need to be replaced, due to prior farm boy maintenance practices.
Washer, cone, 42323-60030 (for drive flange)
Washer, flat/lock, 90201-10075 (for drive flange)
Nut, 90170-10039 (for drive flange)
Stud, 90116-10201 (for drive flange)
Nut, bearing adjusting lock nut (2 Req'd each wheel), 43521-60011
Washer, bearing adjusting locknut (1 Req'd each wheel), 90215-42025
» Note: if your hub is damaged, you can replace it with
Hub assembly, 43503-69015, which comes complete with the bearings and seal listed above, as well as the wheel studs and dowel pin
General supplies (not typically on hand):
Torque wrench, capable of at least 120-lb·ft
Duckbill snap ring pliers (Snap-On SNP2 or equivalent)
SST 09628-32011, ball joint separator (or OTC front end service kit [part number 6295] or equivalent)
Tie rod end separator
Brass drift (or rod, at least 12-in long and Ø3/4-in) (for CV axle removal)
8-oz, 18-oz (ball peen) and 4-lb (engineer's) hammers (for CV axle removal)
Pry bar, at least 18-in long (for CV axle removal)
Loctite 242/243 (or equivalent), for steering knuckle arm bolts
Toluene or trichloroethylene, for steering knuckle arm bolts
Brake cleaner or mineral spirits, for removing bearing grease (I prefer mineral spirits)
SST 09521-24010, band crimp tool (or Oetiker [part number 14100387], compound action, crimp type hose clamp pliers) - for CV axle outer boot clamps
Lisle seal puller (part number 56750)
Hypoid gear oil, API GL-5, 1.8 quarts (for front differential drain & fill)
Multi-purpose wheel bearing grease (red), 16-oz can
Note: if I did not provide part numbers, you need to look them up for your year model. If I did provide part numbers, these are valid for all 100 series models. My LX470 is a 2000 model, so the part numbers I didn't provide won't help you (they are only valid for 1998-2003).
If I've missed anything, someone please let me know.
Since I'm going through this myself (for my son's 2000 LX470), I thought I'd add my 2¢:
In order of importance to handling, not ride quality, I am replacing
1. Rack & Pinion (steering rack) (if its bushings are gone, and you elect not to replace just the bushings)
2. Grommet (mount bushing) for Steering Gear (rack and pinion), regardless of what you do with the rack and pinion
» Seal Kit (for steering gear), if you elect not to replace the rack)
3. Tie Rod End assemblies (comes with nut and cotter pin)
4. Boot, for steering gear (2 Req'd), 45535-60010
5. Clamp (outer), (for steering gear boot 45535-60010) (2 Req'd), 96134-52600 (supersedes 90467-26002)
6. Clamp (inner), (for steering gear boot 45535-60010) (2 Req'd), 90460-62006
7. Cushion, link assembly, 90948-01003
8. Bushing assembly, link (2 Req'd), 48820-60032
9. Bushing, (2 R'eqd), front stabilizer bar, 48815-60111
For ride quality (and, to a lesser degree for me, improved handling):
Upper control arm assembly LH/RH, 48630-60010/48610-60030
Nut, castle (2 Req'd), 90171-14010 (not included w/ arm ass'y)
Cotter pin (2 Req'd), 95381-03025 (not included w/ arm ass'y)
Lower control arm assembly LH/RH, 48640-60010/48620-60010
Bushing, for lower control arm (not included in the control arm), 48655-60010
Nut, castle (2 Req'd), 90171-18003 (not included w/ arm ass'y)
Cotter pin (2 Req'd), 90252-04009 (not included w/ arm ass'y)
» Note: Toyota does not supply the ball joints separate from the control arms. Control arm bushings are supplied separately. If you elect to replace the ball joints with aftermarket bearings, you should also replace the bushings, due to age and wear.
Bushing, upper control arm (4 Req'd), 48632-60010
Bushing, lower control arm (not the separate bushing listed above) (2 Req'd), 48654-60010
For general maintenance (you can't reach these unless the parts above are removed, so, given your mileage, you should replace them while they are accessible):
CV axle (front drive shaft) (2 Req'd), 43430-60040
» If you do not elect to replace the CV Axle:
Boot kit for CV axle (2 Req'd), 04427-60121
» this grease is to supplement the grease included in the boot kits, which is less than specified in the service manual:
Inner joint grease, either 90999-94192 (110g) or 90999-94115 (115g) (black) (both are included in the boot kit)
Outer joint grease, 90999-94316 (150g) (yellow)
» You will find different part numbers for this grease, depending on the supplier. The above is Raremax grease, Shell Stamina (90999-94135), and Raremax (90999-94131) is also supplied in some kits.
Note:
» the service manual specifies inner joint capacity at 293-303g (the kit is at least 68g [2.5-oz] short)
» the service manual specifies outer joint capacity at 368-378g (the kit is at least 68g [2.5-oz] short)
» Moly grease tubs are usually 16-oz. If you elect to use non-Toyota grease, you'll need (3) 16-oz tubs, for both axles, to fill the minimum volumes.
Dust cover (inner joint) (2 Req'd), 41336-35020
Dust seal (outer joint) (Note: this is specified in the service manual as non-reusable, but not listed in the EPC)
» NOTE: whether you replace or reboot the CV axle, you will need the following:
Seal, differential LH, 90311-47013
Seal, differential RH, 90311-47012
Gasket, plug, drain (and fill, for differential), 12157-10010 (never reuse) (same as rear and transmission/transfer)
Gasket, drive flange, 43422-60070 (should be replaced every time the drive flange is removed)
» For front wheel hub (these only need to be replaced if worn, otherwise, clean & lubricate the bearings and replace only the rear grease seal):
Bearing, outer (wheel), 90080-36067
Bearing inner (wheel), 90080-36098
Seal, inner (wheel), 90311-70011
Drive flange (if worn, or if you elect to replace the CV axle), 43421-60030
» The following parts are listed for reference only. Typically, some of these need to be replaced, due to prior farm boy maintenance practices.
Washer, cone, 42323-60030 (for drive flange)
Washer, flat/lock, 90201-10075 (for drive flange)
Nut, 90170-10039 (for drive flange)
Stud, 90116-10201 (for drive flange)
Nut, bearing adjusting lock nut (2 Req'd each wheel), 43521-60011
Washer, bearing adjusting locknut (1 Req'd each wheel), 90215-42025
» Note: if your hub is damaged, you can replace it with
Hub assembly, 43503-69015, which comes complete with the bearings and seal listed above, as well as the wheel studs and dowel pin
General supplies (not typically on hand):
Torque wrench, capable of at least 120-lb·ft
Duckbill snap ring pliers (Snap-On SNP2 or equivalent)
SST 09628-32011, ball joint separator (or OTC front end service kit [part number 6295] or equivalent)
Tie rod end separator
Brass drift (or rod, at least 12-in long and Ø3/4-in) (for CV axle removal)
8-oz, 18-oz (ball peen) and 4-lb (engineer's) hammers (for CV axle removal)
Pry bar, at least 18-in long (for CV axle removal)
Loctite 242/243 (or equivalent), for steering knuckle arm bolts
Toluene or trichloroethylene, for steering knuckle arm bolts
Brake cleaner or mineral spirits, for removing bearing grease (I prefer mineral spirits)
SST 09521-24010, band crimp tool (or Oetiker [part number 14100387], compound action, crimp type hose clamp pliers) - for CV axle outer boot clamps
Lisle seal puller (part number 56750)
Hypoid gear oil, API GL-5, 1.8 quarts (for front differential drain & fill)
Multi-purpose wheel bearing grease (red), 16-oz can
Note: if I did not provide part numbers, you need to look them up for your year model. If I did provide part numbers, these are valid for all 100 series models. My LX470 is a 2000 model, so the part numbers I didn't provide won't help you (they are only valid for 1998-2003).
If I've missed anything, someone please let me know.
AHC flush?
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Probably a good idea, for everyone with a Lexus, that is.
- Thread starter
- #10
Wow thanks for a very detailed plan. I appreciate it. If one had all of the parts on hand how many n hours of labor do you estimate this would take?
- Thread starter
- #11
Thank you.
Jack90210
SILVER Star
I am totally gonna use this phrase, thanks!
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
If you've never had any of the front end apart, or never done the work before, I'd budget a long weekend. It can easily be done in a day, if you have all the parts and if you have all the tools you need. Basic hand tools won't do the job...and you need to spend a couple of days cleaning all the gunk off that you can, before you try to remove any parts, and basting every nut and bolt with lubricant.
