OME trim packers VS Mr Gasket spacer

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woody said:
Sorry to disagree with you Christo, but I knew significantly more when I was in my late teens than I do today....hell, I damn near knew everything....

Actually that is from owning a 80. Seems like all new 80 owners know everything about Land Cruisers. Past and present. You are not the exception. :D

Also, important to know is that we are not just trying to sell caster plates. Most times we will talk people out of setting up their trucks higher than OME and messing with how their trucks drive.

I just don't want lurkers to read this, then go out and buy the stuff and not know what they are getting into. Unlike Stuckey that can project the obvious to all readers without stating it, we can not.
 
Kalawang said:
Why is your steering intolerable now ? What happened to your steering ?

He has several inches of lift in the front and has not installed caster correction yet. Especially affecting highway driving, uncorrected caster can increase probability of death wobble and is just generally unsafe.
 
sleeoffroad said:
Also, important to know is that we are not just trying to sell caster plates. Most times we will talk people out of setting up their trucks higher than OME and messing with how their trucks drive.

yer 4" lift is coming....I'll assume the caster plates are required, or new arms. Also, I'll assume it's setup as a "heavy" lift for bumpers and sliders and such. 35's? D-shaft changes required (CV) ?

...wonder if I should be real ghetto in the short term and do 1" MrG's at all 4 corners....lol
 
Thanks for the link shocker. I was reading through there, but didn't really see if the offset of the rear bushing in the control arm affects caster at all. Does it? As of now i have the OME CC bushing in the front of the control arms, OEM front bumper with the medium lift from slee and my caster is 0 degrees. I'm just about to buck up for the caster plates, but i was wondering if this is something i should or shouldn't do? Thought it might help until i get the caster plates.

One other thing, guys with the plates, are you putting OEM bushings back in place of the OME CC bushings when installing the plates?
 
The caster plates, if I recall correctly, are designed to put caster back into OEM specs with 4" of lift and the stock bushings. You can use the OME bushings to adjust either way from there.

As far as the OME bushings in the rear of the control arm are concerned (and this is just me thinking out loud here)... Relocating the pivot point horizontally, front to back, would only serve to adjust the wheelbase of the vehicle. If you wanted to adjust caster for a lift by installing the bushings there, the pivot point would need to be moved vertically ('down' in the case of a lift).
 
woody said:
yer 4" lift is coming....I'll assume the caster plates are required, or new arms. Also, I'll assume it's setup as a "heavy" lift for bumpers and sliders and such. 35's? D-shaft changes required (CV) ?

...wonder if I should be real ghetto in the short term and do 1" MrG's at all 4 corners....lol


I'm "Junking" my rig...OME J's all around and 20 MM of packers all around. I'm expecting 4"-4.5" of lift. Doing castor plates and such also.
 
Concrete...so you have the OME medium and have castor of 0 with stock bumper...isnt this out of specs.....just wondering if i might be better off going with the slee plates since I have the heavy fronts and plan on using some sort of additional front lift.....im just wondering if this will be too much castor...Are there instructions or a detailed install of the plates around....I cant dial 1800 numbers so I cant call slee
 
Kalawang said:
Why is your steering intolerable now ? What happened to your steering ?

The J-springs plus the 1 inch spacer have made the steering at highway speeds very sloppy and loose. The tires like to catch every rut and imperfection in the road as well. I know some of this is due to running 35's but not all of it. Around town is not quite as bad but still obnoxious.
 
stuckey, as christo calls you, I have never ran that set up. But with j springs (10mm packer in front) and no bumpers, only sliders, I EASILY fit 35" mtrs with 1 and 1/8 inch wheel spacers. I do believe that with 20 mm in the front and rear you could functionally run 36s with trimmming. 20mm in the rear plus a mr. gasket up front also seems like it would be a good combo for what your asking about.
 
Search for posts by bjowett. I believe he ran 36's with J's up front and heavies in the back with no spacers. It will depend on the tire too.
 
stuck in GA said:
So if you do the J's with the L shocks and spacers all around will that accomidate 36's?


You know you really could try and learn how to use the search function. I know it would be a serious effort but for someone going to college it might be a good idea to learn how to use a computer. :flipoff2:
 
sleeoffroad said:
You can run 4" spacers and it will drive great. No driveability issues and you can also run 40" Swampers

Will stock gears work for those 40's? :D
 
NorCalDoug said:
scoot over reffug...
:popcorn: :beer:

mmmffff, mfffff, mmmmmfff...
glug, glug, glug...

(sorry...too busy packing my face with popcorn and downing brews to comment :D)

Hey guys sorry I am late....here you go... :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: and some more :popcorn: :popcorn:



BTW Christo...don't expect to have "Stuckey" order anything from you he thinks your a little pricey. ;)

Search feature is a great thing....click here
 
sleeoffroad said:
You can run 4" spacers and it will drive great. No driveability issues and you can also run 40" Swampers


Christo made a joke.......................... :D


sleeoffroad said:
Yes, the speedo will be right on and you will not have any power loss. If obvously you install a compounded turbo system.

Oh yaa Christo have you shipped my compounded turbo yet. :cool:

Stuckey/Sparky ain't gonna get any of this, obtuse comes to mind.
 
sleeoffroad said:
If obvously you install a compounded turbo system.

I'll take three. More is better right? ;)
 

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