OME T-Bar Question....w/ pics

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

i am gonna keep cranking until it is level....

OME requires a minimum of 2" of droop to keep the cv shafts happy.

When I did the install I didn't even come close to the factory position on the torsion bars. You will want to loosen the bolt up till it is barely protruding above the adjuster bar, adjust the torsion bar so it sits flush on the nut, and then start to crank down on the torsion bar. The original setting were 2" and 2.25" and I think I was around 3.25" with 13" from the top of the rim to wheel well and 15.5" at droop.
 
Liam, glad you got the 865 springs installed. A couple of thoughts regarding leveling out the truck.

Normal stance for a LC is not level, but the front being slightly loweer then the rear. About 1" difference. When I first lifted mine we cranked up the front to level the truck. This eliminated to much of the down travel and I did not like the way it handeled on the hiway. It felt too twitchy or unstable if i attempted a quick side to side motion or lane change.

After consulting with Slee and Co. I lowered the front end and all was well.

Lastly, don't forget to re-align the front end after adjusting the T-bars.
 
Liam, glad you got the 865 springs installed. A couple of thoughts regarding leveling out the truck.

Normal stance for a LC is not level, but the front being slightly loweer then the rear. About 1" difference. When I first lifted mine we cranked up the front to level the truck. This eliminated to much of the down travel and I did not like the way it handeled on the hiway. It felt too twitchy or unstable if i attempted a quick side to side motion or lane change.

After consulting with Slee and Co. I lowered the front end and all was well.

Lastly, don't forget to re-align the front end after adjusting the T-bars.
the front is off about 2" from the back. I defiantly need to index the t-bars.....

once i do that i will align....

thanks again for the springs:beer:
 
I really hope this is not that hard, I have to do it this month....
 
Liam,

when you get it all sorted out, let us know how the lift and your bilstein shocks work out.

BTW the truck is really looking good:beer:
 
Liam,

when you get it all sorted out, let us know how the lift and your bilstein shocks work out.

BTW the truck is really looking good:beer:
will do....as of right now i love the way the truck rides. The rear OME springs give the truck a real solid feel. As of right now the Billies are sweet. When i take it over some rocks i'll report in...
 
We keep hearing you can't use the regular bilsteins with a lifted 100 series, but dclee(I think) and now you are running them with the OME lift. I would like to go back to my bilsteins if it is doable. Thats's why I asked for a follow up.

I knew you would like the 865 springs:)
 
We keep hearing you can't use the regular bilsteins with a lifted 100 series, but dclee(I think) and now you are running them with the OME lift. I would like to go back to my bilsteins if it is doable. Thats's why I asked for a follow up.

I knew you would like the 865 springs:)
They seem to be fine, but i havent really done any articulation. I asked Cam at IronPig and he said i'd be fine. When i was replacing the springs i unhooked the bottom mounts on the Billies and it seemed like there will be more than enough shock
 
The "regular" Bilsteins are virtually the same dimensions/compression/extension as stock. I have a fairly minimal lift (about 1.75") and have not experienced any issues with the Billies. If you're going much higher, then you would probably want something else.
 
ok, i am a bit confused. I loosened the adjuster screw all the way, took off my tire, unbolted the shock, took the two bolts off the front T-bar housing that connects to the control arm and then slid it in until it was almost flush with the nut.
My confusion is that i didnt have to twist anything.....was i suppose to????
 
anyone? Was i suppose to turn the t-bars a certain direction in order to reindex them or was sliding the forward enough??
 
You have to turn them within the splined flange (actually, turn and then re-insert). I don't remember which direction, but it should be on here if you search.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom