OME T-Bar Question....w/ pics

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Ok, so i put my 2" rear springs in today and went to crank up my OME T-bars to level it out. Pictures below.
My question/problem is on the DS i ran out of threads for adjustment and it seems like it needs to be pushed up a tad bit more. The PS still has a little over 1/2 of threads left. Am i missing something? Did the DS Tbar get put in wrong?
IMG00015-20090404-1710.jpg
IMG00016-20090404-1711.jpg
IMG00017-20090404-1711.jpg
 
I think you just need to re-index the bar that's coming up short.
 
Ok, so i put my 2" rear springs in today and went to crank up my OME T-bars to level it out. Pictures below.
My question/problem is on the DS i ran out of threads for adjustment and it seems like it needs to be pushed up a tad bit more. The PS still has a little over 1/2 of threads left. Am i missing something? Did the DS Tbar get put in wrong?

No, not reallly. One could have settled more than the other, it could be a spline or two off, or someone could have had them out (one of them) for a repair.


I think you just need to re-index the bar that's coming up short.

X'2! Do this by lifting the front end so the tires are off the ground. Release ALL tension on the bars and the threads are down even with the adjuster cam. Unbolt the torsion bar anchor plate from the lower control arm and slide it back over the torsion bar.
Now twist the bar so the rear end is tight against the adjuster arm, and then slide the anchor plate forward back onto the lower control arm.
You might have to clean the splines to get it to slide easily and apply some white grease to the splines.

Should take around an hour in your driveway or garage.

Have fun!
 
No, not reallly. One could have settled more than the other, it could be a spline or two off, or someone could have had them out (one of them) for a repair.




X'2! Do this by lifting the front end so the tires are off the ground. Release ALL tension on the bars and the threads are down even with the adjuster cam. Unbolt the torsion bar anchor plate from the lower control arm and slide it back over the torsion bar.
Now twist the bar so the rear end is tight against the adjuster arm, and then slide the anchor plate forward back onto the lower control arm.
You might have to clean the splines to get it to slide easily and apply some white grease to the splines.

Should take around an hour in your driveway or garage.

Have fun!
thankyou, i will try it tomorrow.

question, when i lift the tire off the ground do i lift it at the frame so as the tire hangs or do i lift it at the control arm?
 
Lift the frame, you want the tires and suspension hanging with no load.

Safety=always use jack stands, never rely on the jack when you're underneath. (it aint pretty, I've seen it)
 
Lift the frame, you want the tires and suspension hanging with no load.

Safety=always use jack stands, never rely on the jack when you're underneath. (it aint pretty, I've seen it)
i almost had a run in with my truck today and it coming of the jacks.....

i was changing out my rear springs and the truck shifted...
 
Yep, what Campfire said.
 
How hard was it to change to springs liam?

I thinking about putting in the med. Springs and cranking the factory bars.
 
How hard was it to change to springs liam?

I thinking about putting in the med. Springs and cranking the factory bars.
overall it wasnt that hard, mind you i wasnt changing the shocks (i already did that 2 months ago). The biggest pain in the ass was the shifting truck.

Make sure you really get the frame up hight b/c you have to drop the axle rather far. Once you get the old springs out the OME are easy to put in b/c they are actually shorter than the OEM..
 
i almost had a run in with my truck today and it coming of the jacks.....

i was changing out my rear springs and the truck shifted...


Usually this is because that heavy axle assembly is hanging by the panhard, and as you lower it, the panhard causes it to swing to the right. That much weight swinging in one direction causes the shift. This is why I use two jacks to lower the axle, one at each wheel, and then I incrementally lower the axle to prevent the massive weight shift all at once.
 
Usually this is because that heavy axle assembly is hanging by the panhard, and as you lower it, the panhard causes it to swing to the right. That much weight swinging in one direction causes the shift. This is why I use two jacks to lower the axle, one at each wheel, and then I incrementally lower the axle to prevent the massive weight shift all at once.
i actually did this as well, but it still shifted. I ended up securing the rear corner with a 3.5 ton jack and using 4 jacks on each end of the axle (1 bottle and 1 floor). If i had to do it again i would make damn sure the surface i was working on was level left to right...
 
should i keep the tire on or take it off?


Take it off, otherwise you'll have to jack up the frame WAY too high to get the required amount of droop.
 
when you say twist the bar when it is tight against the adjuster bar, does that mean twist is counter clockwise or clockwise??
 
Clockwise on the left side, counter clockwise on the right.

Or the other way around, you should see when you try it.
 
Emergency -- Emergency.................did you measure your leftover droop to make sure you have enough to be safe? You don't want to get slammed in this forum! :D
 

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