OME suspension install for newbie...

[Jesper]

Am planning on installing new springs/shackles/shocks, would like about a 1.5 to 2" lift. If I had to pick right now I'd probably buy the OME medium duty package as it sounds like a decent, all-inclusive package from a good company. Seen a few YouTube reviews where everything went on easy with no mods or headaches.

Using the magical search function here, however, reveals a swarm of posts about OME installation nightmares and vehicle lean issues which may or may not resolve themselves over time.

I'm planning on installing the lift myself and anticipate the normal issues with things not wanting to come off or go on easily, but I really don't want to get in over my head.

So, for a guy looking for a straight forward install and a good ride/performance afterwards, are there any particular products you would point me to or steer me away from, and any specific advice about the install you can send my way before I get started.

As always, thanks much in advance.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I'd steer you straight to Kurt and an OME suspension.

Don't try to go cheap. Get new shackles, shocks, etc....

If you want to do it for the long term, I would buy a U-bolt flip kit instead of buying new U-bolts with the new suspension. But that's just my preference.

It's very straightforward, really. Just have some Kroil ready, and put it on all the bolts the day you order the kit, so that they will come loose when you go to install it. Kurt and the guys at Cruiser Outfitters can talk you through which spring goes where, although it's really pretty easy. The very last thing I do is install the zerk fittings. That way you can bang on the pins with a rubber mallet if you need to persuade them to go in.

Since the cruiser is spring under axle, just jack the truck up, and support the frame. Then remove the U-bolts (the axle will sit on top of the spring), and replace one spring at a time. The hardest part of the whole thing is getting the new spring, with the new bushing into the fixed side eye, because that will be tight. I spread the eye just a little with a pry bar before trying to seat the fixed end of the spring.

Dan

 

[Elbert]

OME install is not bad. Go to the cruiser outfitters web site, call Kurt for advice, buy through him if you want. Don't mix and match stuff, get all the parts in a kit from Kurt.

 

[Output Shaft]

Sorry this got a too long,

A HighLift jack of some sort that can lift the body up at least 10-12" is needed to unload the weight of the body off the springs.

In my experience, after installing springs 5 times ( yes, I know), the following technique works best for me. In fact it is the only way I can get them on.

Removal:
Lift body with HighLift jack
Remove shackle
Remove U-bolts
Remove rear spring pivot pin

Installation:
Install the non-shackle end with spring first.
Install the u-bolts and spring plates under the spring. You may need a jack to press the spring plate & spring up to reach the u-bolts. Only tighten the u-bolt nuts just enough so that they grab a few threads. Make sure they are not cross threading. Don't tighten them all the way up.

The new spring will then most likely be too arced at the end to reach the shackle.
This is where a 6 ft long sturdy (2" OD) pipe comes in handy, (or a long 4"x4 piece of wood).

The difficulty of the install comes at the end, when you are trying to reach the shackle to the overly arced spring. This is where your big long pipe or board comes in handy.

Strap the pipe to the spring with stout nylon webbing. What you want to do (if using this technique) is to create a long extension to the spring that you can apply your body weight to, to bend down the end of the spring to reach the shackle. Essentially creating a long lever you can lean on to bend that sucker down.

Once you get the shackle installed, tighten up the u-bolt nuts BUT DO NOT TORQUE THEM DOWM TO 90 FT-lbs as specified in the manual if your new springs are thicker than your old ones.

That torque spec is only valid for stock Toyota u-bolts with the same thickness of spring. The nut is actually bottoming out on the Toyota u-bolt threads at 90 ft-lbs. It is not reaching 90 ft-lbs of friction due to clamping force.

If you attempt to torque the front u-bolt nuts to 90 ft-lbs, with thicker springs, the welded u-bolt retainers on the front axle will likely bend.

 

[Elbert]

I take jack stands....(4) 2under the frame front, and 2 in the rear, get the frame just high enough to get the tires off the ground, supported by the jack stands. Take all 4 tires off. then using a roll-around jack I swap the springs and bushings, shackles one side at the time. Also need a small ratchet strap to help position things, a friend to help is even better. Again its best to stay with a matched set of parts. If you live in the rust best or the truck spent time in the rust belt be prepared to fight bolts and rust. May need sway bar link extensions and long brake hoses.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Am planning on installing new springs/shackles/shocks, would like about a 1.5 to 2" lift. ..

That sounds like a good lift height to me, but that's not likely what you will end up with. The package lifts are typically rated at 2-3", but from what I gather most people end up with 3-5" over where they started. HFS from Cool Cruisers, Ironman and Terrain Tamer are other options besides OME for lift packages. FYI, OME tends to give the truck a slight stinkbug look, a bit higher in the back. You can also order custom Alcan springs to your specified height, then buy the rest of the parts like shocks, bushings, etc. from someone like Cruiser Outfitters.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I have the CS004 OME heavies on my 60. I did it myself, no big secrets. As suggested get new u-bolts, and shocks that match the lift. I recommend getting the OME anti inversion greasable shackles. These add to the ride for sure.
The common thing that happened to me, and others, is once you install the anti inversion shackles and the impression is the springs are too
short or some thing. It will look really messed up....don't be alarmed. The springs are new, and need some weight to being them down,
and you can't do that standing on them! So take it for a drive before you sound out the cavalry for help.
I also had to add a 2 1/2 or 4 degree shim to the base of the front springs to adjust the camber back to spec. I drove mine for a while
and couldn't figure out why I had such weird bump steer. The shims corrected that immediately.
I would recommend having new front end TRE's installed. The new springs will highlight any weaknesses there.
One other weird thing that happened, is my steering wheel went about 20 deg to one side. I just had to adjust it back.
Hope this helps.

 

[Jesper]

Great info, thanks to you all for replying. I can visualize most of the steps with taking off and replacing the springs, although messing with shims and adjusting camber is completely foreign to me. Is this something a novice can read up on and figure out with basic tools? I don't want to pour a ton of time and money into my project only to spend more money having a shop fix everything I screwed up. For some reason I picture some elaborate and intricate measurements when it comes to shims, caster, camber and all that voodoo.

 

[Output Shaft]

Resetting the castor angle requires no more than placing the correct shim under the leaf pack before bolting it down. Whomever you buy the springs from can set you up with the correct shim.

 

[Jesper]

Awesome, thanks.