OME Lift Question

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Going to be completing a OME 2” lift here soon.Does anyone have a recommendation for replacement pads that go between the leaf spring and axle if the stock ones are shot?
 

CruiserTrash

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City Racer has replacements for the rubber "isolators", if that's what you're talking about. Me - just a dude on the internet - I'm vehemently opposed to using those with aftermarket springs. The isolators and metal channels they sit in are designed for the stock-thickness leaf packs, it's metal on metal when you torque the u-bolts down, and everything was designed to get a certain level of squish on the rubber. Aftermarket springs packs are thicker so you'll never get the metal on metal contact. You're just torqueing the u-bolts against the rubber forever as it squishes out and deforms.

I've never been able to get full torque this way, and in fact on one occasion the rubber isolator was actually getting warm to the touch from being compressed so much. It all leads to looseness in the rear end. No good, in my opinion.
 

OSS

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Going to be completing a OME 2” lift here soon.Does anyone have a recommendation for replacement pads that go between the leaf spring and axle if the stock ones are shot?
70 series Landcruisers don’t use rubber pads under the springs — so it’s not like they’re mandatory. That being said - I always reused mine with newer thicker spring packs and never ran into any problems whatsoever – even after hundreds of thousands of miles and thousands of miles of Baja 1000 roads.

The key to reusing the rubber spring pads is ….. ignore the torque spec for the u-bolt nuts in the manual.
That torque is only valid for the stock thickness springs and original u bolts.
At 90 ft lbs (spec) and original springs, the nut bottoms out on the ubolt threads and can’t screw down any farther. That’s where the 90ft lbs comes from.
If the nut doesn’t run out of threads on the bolt because you’ve got thicker springs, youll be cranking down till kingdom come — and fully destroy the rubber pad… and still not hit 90ft lbs.

This is especially true in the front. If your new springs are thicker, youll bend the upper spring perch on the axle housing trying to reach 90 ft lbs.

Bottom Line: DONT TIGHTEN UBOLT NUTS TO 90 Ft Lbs!!!

Don’t even use a torque wrench. Just use common sense.
 
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60Works

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Going to be completing a OME 2” lift here soon.Does anyone have a recommendation for replacement pads that go between the leaf spring and axle if the stock ones are shot?
The pads must not be used with OME springs. It is not safe to use them. Lots of threads on this.

OME sells a steel bushing to fill the 1" centering hole in the axle's spring perch. Use it and throw out both upper and lower rubber isolators and the steel hat channel which enclosed them.
 

60Works

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70 series Landcruisers don’t use rubber pads under the springs — so it’s not like they’re mandatory. That being said - I always reused mine with newer thicker spring packs and never ran into any problems whatsoever – even after hundreds of thousands of miles and thousands of miles of Baja 1000 roads.

The key to reusing the rubber spring pads is ….. ignore the torque spec for the u-bolt nuts in the manual.
That torque is only valid for the stock thickness springs and original u bolts.
At 90 ft lbs (spec) and original springs, the nut bottoms out on the ubolt threads and can’t screw down any farther. That’s where the 90ft lbs comes from.
If the nut doesn’t run out of threads on the bolt because you’ve got thicker springs, youll be cranking down till kingdom come — and fully destroy the rubber pad… and still not hit 90ft lbs.
This is especially true in the front. If your new springs are thicker, youll bend the upper spring perch on the axle housing trying to reach 90 ft lbs.

Bottom Line: DONT TIGHTEN UBOLT NUTS TO 90 Ft Lbs!!!

Don’t even use a torque wrench. Just use common sense.
The ubolt nuts shouldn't bottom out on the threads. In the stock set up the nuts clamp against the hat channel. The hat channel's sole purpose is to keep the ubolts from over compressing the rubber isolators. With a non-stock spring thickness the hat channel cannot protect the isolators.
 

OSS

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The ubolt nuts shouldn't bottom out on the threads. In the stock set up the nuts clamp against the hat channel. The hat channel's sole purpose is to keep the ubolts from over compressing the rubber isolators. With a non-stock spring thickness the hat channel cannot protect the isolators.
Thats correct for the rear springs.
The front springs’ ubolt nuts bottom out on the end of the bolt threads on stock springs. That’s when the 90 ft lbs suddenly clicks off on the torque wrench
 
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So what I am hearing is that on my 1985 60, I should not use any rubber (stock or otherwise) and should also discard the hat channels as they are no longer needed eithe?
 

60Works

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So what I am hearing is that on my 1985 60, I should not use any rubber (stock or otherwise) and should also discard the hat channels as they are no longer needed eithe?

Correct, when installing a non-OEM thickness spring.

The additional steel bushing is required when not using the rubber isolators to keep the axle from shifting on the spring pin.
 

60Works

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Thats correct for the rear springs.
The front springs’ ubolt nuts bottom out on the end of the bolt threads on stock springs. That’s when the 90 ft lbs suddenly clicks off on the torque wrench

Learn something new everyday. Thanks, OSS.
 
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Correct, when installing a non-OEM thickness spring.

The additional steel bushing is required when not using the rubber isolators to keep the axle from shifting on the spring pin.
Thanks for the info. So where do I buy the bushing? I bought the kit from CruiserCorp and it is not part of it.
 

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Thanks for the info. So where do I buy the bushing? I bought the kit from CruiserCorp and it is not part of it.
It’s ARB part number CBS01 I believe. @cruiseroutfit should have them.
 

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CruiserTrash

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One of the four springs arrived today, and appears to have the center bolt already installed from the factory. Guessing I won't need the CBS01. Thanks for the information.
The center bolt is there, but isn't wide enough for the hole in the axle plate. Take a look at the two - the center pin is maybe 1/2" and the hole in the axle plate is closer to 1". The spacer makes the pin fit in the hole without shifting around. Originally the metal "channel" that held the upper rubber isolator had a round protrusion that served the same purpose. Eliminate metal channel ... get CBS01.
 

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One of the four springs arrived today, and appears to have the center bolt already installed from the factory. Guessing I won't need the CBS01. Thanks for the information.

That is a sleeve. The center bolt spacers are always sold (or included) separately.
 
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The center bolt is there, but isn't wide enough for the hole in the axle plate. Take a look at the two - the center pin is maybe 1/2" and the hole in the axle plate is closer to 1". The spacer makes the pin fit in the hole without shifting around. Originally the metal "channel" that held the upper rubber isolator had a round protrusion that served the same purpose. Eliminate metal channel ... get CBS01.
Okay so I bought 4 of those. Is there a torque rating on them or just get them tight? Also I saw some debate about the 90 ft/lb on the u bolts. If I am removing the pads and plates, should I go to 90 or will I run out of thread most likely?

Also recommendations on rubber grease for the bushings and grease for the greaseable shackles?
 

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Okay so I bought 4 of those. Is there a torque rating on them or just get them tight? Also I saw some debate about the 90 ft/lb on the u bolts. If I am removing the pads and plates, should I go to 90 or will I run out of thread most likely?

Also recommendations on rubber grease for the bushings and grease for the greaseable shackles?

Where are you buying a suspension kit from doesn't provide all of this information for you?
 

CruiserTrash

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Okay so I bought 4 of those. Is there a torque rating on them or just get them tight? Also I saw some debate about the 90 ft/lb on the u bolts. If I am removing the pads and plates, should I go to 90 or will I run out of thread most likely?

Also recommendations on rubber grease for the bushings and grease for the greaseable shackles?
OME part number CBS01 doesn't need tightened. Put it where it goes and assemble the suspension.

Not to get tribal about it, but I bought a full OME kit from @cruiseroutfit a few years back. I ran into some oddball issues like the CBS01 spacer (my year of 60 shouldn't have needed it, but did). He and his crew walked me through it all over the phone, mailed me parts, etc. @reaton is the place you bought the suspension from not answering your calls or something?
 

cruiseroutfit

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Okay so I bought 4 of those. Is there a torque rating on them or just get them tight? Also I saw some debate about the 90 ft/lb on the u bolts. If I am removing the pads and plates, should I go to 90 or will I run out of thread most likely?

Also recommendations on rubber grease for the bushings and grease for the greaseable shackles?

There will only be 2 CBS01 spacers needed, ever. If you didn't get the spacers, make sure you got the correct rear shocks/bushing. Both changed on late model 6x's.
 
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Where are you buying a suspension kit from doesn't provide all of this information for yo
OME part number CBS01 doesn't need tightened. Put it where it goes and assemble the suspension.

Not to get tribal about it, but I bought a full OME kit from @cruiseroutfit a few years back. I ran into some oddball issues like the CBS01 spacer (my year of 60 shouldn't have needed it, but did). He and his crew walked me through it all over the phone, mailed me parts, etc. @reaton is the place you bought the suspension from not answering your calls or something?

So I am still a bit confused. I can only find the CBS01 mentioned in one ARB parts catalogue and it isn't described or pictured.

The part I found in searching was this:


But what you guys are talking about doesn't sound like a bolt, but rather a cap of some sort that fits over the bolt?
 

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