ome lift now have vibration (didnt before)
- Thread starter hward1
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hward1
87 fj60 / 95 fjz80
- Thread starter
- #22
What size shim would yall recommend ??? 2 degrees or 3 degrees or none -- using this (im thinking maybe 2 degrees now)
Single-Cardan Measurements:
Assuming you have a single cardan driveshaft and want to check if the transfer case output and pinion flanges are close to parallel, just measure the distance between the top and bottom of each flange.
If the dimensions are equal, the two flanges are parallel.
If they are not equal, then each 1/16" difference is equal to 0.9° across the ~4" diameter of the flange (which is the size Toyota uses)
If 0.9° is too confusing for you, call it 1°, that is probably close enough for small differences.
Other makes may use different size flanges and some may not use flanges at all,
If no flanges are uses, then an angle finder must be employed to measure the angles
Ideally, you would like the upper measurement to be 1/16-1/8" less than the lower measurement for a bit of static "down-angle". Then, as the axle (and pinion) tilt up under load, the angles will approach parallel. While this measurement can be done with the driveshaft in place, it may be easier to do with it off, in order to get more accurate measurements:
T/C flange angle
rear diff. flange angle
upclose of rear diff. angle
Single-Cardan Measurements:
Assuming you have a single cardan driveshaft and want to check if the transfer case output and pinion flanges are close to parallel, just measure the distance between the top and bottom of each flange.
If the dimensions are equal, the two flanges are parallel.
If they are not equal, then each 1/16" difference is equal to 0.9° across the ~4" diameter of the flange (which is the size Toyota uses)
If 0.9° is too confusing for you, call it 1°, that is probably close enough for small differences.
Other makes may use different size flanges and some may not use flanges at all,
If no flanges are uses, then an angle finder must be employed to measure the angles
Ideally, you would like the upper measurement to be 1/16-1/8" less than the lower measurement for a bit of static "down-angle". Then, as the axle (and pinion) tilt up under load, the angles will approach parallel. While this measurement can be done with the driveshaft in place, it may be easier to do with it off, in order to get more accurate measurements:
T/C flange angle
rear diff. flange angle
upclose of rear diff. angle
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I just read your thread. You found the source of the vibes. You want the rear a degree or two lower than the front to compensate for torque induced rise. Right now you are a few degrees too high without the added rise from driveline torque. The shims will help a lot. The higher you lift the vehicle the harder it is to get the drivelines to work smoothly. It may never be quite as smooth as it was before, but certainly tolerable. Every few years I would take my driveline in to be balanced (it had a rough life) that always seemed to help as it always required something welded to it, or a slight straightening. It was always smoother after that.
have a vibration now at speeds roughly 25-45 not really noticed at high speed - checked ujoints all very tight no movement - i have driveshaft in phase --- (the only thing i did a while back was i took the driveshaft apart and didnt mark it i but it back inphase put i think by looking tonight it maybe some teeth off maybe -- the truck didnt have a vibration until the lift today after installation -- so any suggestions -- i guess i could try and take it back off and make sure its lined up correct anyway to tell for sure -- before i layed it on the pavement until it sit flat - i thought- also havent checked any pinion angle -- would having very small tires cause this because i havent changed the tires yet
if too much angel youl get vibration also check length
im not a rookie 20 yrs exp
hward1
87 fj60 / 95 fjz80
- Thread starter
- #28
added 2 degree shims (but noticing a degree change of like 4 degrees the oppisite way) -- still vibrates at lower speeds 20-45 guessing - checked again for movement in the yokes i cant get them to move pushing backnforth - with them off they are very easy to move on both ends -- so now what get the drive shaft checked - but remember it didnt vibrate before the lift so im not sure
driveshafts
neg 1 to 3 only or vibes in dif side from driveshaft yod be supprised how many hot rodas that get lowerd start to vibrate because the negitive caster is off camaros ofset the weld yolkes to give movement to the ujoints
neg 1 to 3 only or vibes in dif side from driveshaft yod be supprised how many hot rodas that get lowerd start to vibrate because the negitive caster is off camaros ofset the weld yolkes to give movement to the ujoints
What?
I'd say your angles are fine now - a couple degrees of "static" down angle should be fine. I'm surprised a 2 degree shim changed the pinion angle that much, and that your vibration is the same
. For mine it rotated about 2-3 degrees as I expected. My vibration was at higher speed, noticeable above 50 mph, and was eliminated after shimming. Obviously more going on with your rig - it sucks chasing issues.
. For mine it rotated about 2-3 degrees as I expected. My vibration was at higher speed, noticeable above 50 mph, and was eliminated after shimming. Obviously more going on with your rig - it sucks chasing issues.
Flip the slip yoke portion 180 degrees just for fun, your yokes' position should be just like the picture posted. I think that is why its important to mark them first. I usually forget.. Don't over grease the slip splines- I usually do it by hand as the grease can "hydraulic" and cause damage if compress and the grease doesn't escape.
Did you take the u-joint apart? check for smoothness in each axis? They are actually shimmed by the circlips which also establishes the centering.. If you didn't touch 'em its probably not an issue..
Did you take the u-joint apart? check for smoothness in each axis? They are actually shimmed by the circlips which also establishes the centering.. If you didn't touch 'em its probably not an issue..
Does the truck have new universal joints installed? if not how old are they? Why not post up pics showing shackles and the way the truck sits at present. Has any work ever been done on the rear third?
Did you let the suspension settle before torquing down the bolts/fasteners after swapping the springs...etc and did you install new bushings etc and grease stuff as appropriate?
Did you let the suspension settle before torquing down the bolts/fasteners after swapping the springs...etc and did you install new bushings etc and grease stuff as appropriate?
hward1
87 fj60 / 95 fjz80
- Thread starter
- #36
looks to be original ujoints - ill get the pics of shackles and truck (i do have a lean to pass. side) - no rear third work looks original still not leaking - i changed pinion seal - i didnt let the suspension settle but i did loosen them up and retorqued again with the weight on truck - all new bushing greased inside only --
didnt take the u joint apart - they rotated smooth almost to smooth i was thinking but no play side to side up down -- i have the yokes like the pic
didnt take the u joint apart - they rotated smooth almost to smooth i was thinking but no play side to side up down -- i have the yokes like the pic
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hward1
87 fj60 / 95 fjz80
- Thread starter
- #38
checked the driveshaft in neutral/jacked up to check for movement of the u joint -- before i was checking in park/flat -- i do notice movement now in the joint -- look and see what yall think -- some other pics of unknowns -- sorry about the moon shinner voice - cant help it
video of movement
http://s134.photobucket.com/user/hward1/media/hward1027/MOV06405.mp4.html
new tires wanting to be installed but not until i get it correct
rear refurb/used ome shocks painted up
mounts
side view of t/c
1st thing i ever done to the truck was rebuild the t/c thinks to georg valley hybrids - which i wouldnt have started this project i think i was only neg. $6000 at this point - problem was i never seen a fj60 before and purchased the wrong one for sure - oh yeah thats a new speed cable thought my other one was making my speedo needle jump around but no it was the speedo itself oh yeah it was just more to spend
more pics coming
video of movement
http://s134.photobucket.com/user/hward1/media/hward1027/MOV06405.mp4.html
new tires wanting to be installed but not until i get it correct
rear refurb/used ome shocks painted up
mounts
side view of t/c
1st thing i ever done to the truck was rebuild the t/c thinks to georg valley hybrids - which i wouldnt have started this project i think i was only neg. $6000 at this point - problem was i never seen a fj60 before and purchased the wrong one for sure - oh yeah thats a new speed cable thought my other one was making my speedo needle jump around but no it was the speedo itself oh yeah it was just more to spend
more pics coming
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hward1
87 fj60 / 95 fjz80
- Thread starter
- #39
pics of truck (still havent ever gotton to do any cosmetic stuff from all of the mechanical stuff
ome lift info: purchased used
shocks (ome60062 rear - ome60009 front - painted white)
bushings - omesb1
spacer - cbs01
springs - passengers rear CS004RA, drivers rear CS004RB, front drivers CS004F+ and passenger front CS004F-
so yeah my trucks leaning all over the place........
any info is always helpful - if not for just another thought for something else to think about --- oh dont get fooled by the paint being shinny its only nice on pics - i was fooled but not again ebay
its out of alignment -- all new hardware up front but the rod that adjusts the tie rods want budge to adjust so still have to work on that or maybe an alignment shop will get it to turn
before switching rear A and B sides - A was on drivers rear - ARB recommends A on passenger rear
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angle of rear shackles painted wouldnt have liked to do that but they were kinda of rusty also newer exhaust that needs to be redone - looks bad where they cut it and the nice rust i have
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[URL=http://s134.photobucket.com/user/hward1/media/hward1027/DSC06370.jpg.html]
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[URL=http://s134.photobucket.com/user/hward1/media/hward1027/DSC06390.jpg.html]
front also i need new zerk but cant find the size
does this tire look funny
[URL=http://s134.photobucket.com/user/hward1/media/hward1027/DSC06395.jpg.html]
the other tire
i think i bent this (when i torque it keeps torquing down - going to get a new torque wrence to see if thats the problem)
shims 2 degrees with ome spacer
drive shaft looks like its at a angle and not straight not sure if thats normal
getting side movement on leafs
ome lift info: purchased used
shocks (ome60062 rear - ome60009 front - painted white)
bushings - omesb1
spacer - cbs01
springs - passengers rear CS004RA, drivers rear CS004RB, front drivers CS004F+ and passenger front CS004F-
so yeah my trucks leaning all over the place........
any info is always helpful - if not for just another thought for something else to think about --- oh dont get fooled by the paint being shinny its only nice on pics - i was fooled but not again ebay
its out of alignment -- all new hardware up front but the rod that adjusts the tie rods want budge to adjust so still have to work on that or maybe an alignment shop will get it to turn
before switching rear A and B sides - A was on drivers rear - ARB recommends A on passenger rear
angle of rear shackles painted wouldnt have liked to do that but they were kinda of rusty also newer exhaust that needs to be redone - looks bad where they cut it and the nice rust i have
[/URL
[URL=http://s134.photobucket.com/user/hward1/media/hward1027/DSC06370.jpg.html]
[/URL][URL=http://s134.photobucket.com/user/hward1/media/hward1027/DSC06390.jpg.html]
front also i need new zerk but cant find the size
does this tire look funny
[URL=http://s134.photobucket.com/user/hward1/media/hward1027/DSC06395.jpg.html]
the other tire
i think i bent this (when i torque it keeps torquing down - going to get a new torque wrence to see if thats the problem)
shims 2 degrees with ome spacer
drive shaft looks like its at a angle and not straight not sure if thats normal
getting side movement on leafs
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Something's weird with your springs. The shackles should not be vertical like that.
