Older FSM still worth getting? (1 Viewer)

[tpike]

Hi
I just picked up an 85 FJ60 (214k miles) and have been getting it ready for safety. I have one nagging issue left and I thought I would get a FSM before posting questions here. That very pursuit raised a question. I have a chance to buy a 81 emissions FSM. Is it going to be up to date enough? I suspect it will be but thought I would see what you guys say.

While I'm typing my nagging problem is a high idle that loops. 1200 to 1800 when warmed up. Runs nice on the highway. Compression is ~175 on all cylinders (they had been bored out recently, engine rebuilt and all new hoses put on 2 years ago). I've read through all the "idle" posts on this site and need to look closer at the EGR valve (I can move it with my finger and unhooking it makes no difference). I also have to spend some more time looking for leaks. Vacuum gauge oscillates pretty wildly too 10 - 16 but I'm not certain I am hooking it up to the right port.

Amazing board by the way
Tom

 

[lovetoski]

I have an 87, and the correct (and only) emissions manual for mine is the 1981 emissions repair manual. Buy it. Read it, then start at the beginning, and work through it. You'll be amazed at how easy it is to trouble-shoot the emissions system - the emissions manual makes it pretty straight-forward.

Also, buy the FSM - aka the heavy duty body manual. There's also a manual for the 2F engine, and you might as well get that too...

You can't do the work w/out these critical tools...

One note, before you start trouble shooting the emissions, start by replacing all of the vacuum lines. In the process, confirm that they all go where they should. Especially with a rebuilt engine, you'll probably find that some lines are going to the wrong place. Many of us have noticed an improvement simply by replacing these lines - they leak/crack/stick closed over time.

 

[ellington12]

Fsm

I too will vouch for the factory manuals. I have a Haynes manual which I bought before buying the factory ones and the factory manuals are far easier to deal with and more comprehensive. The engine manual will say 1981 on it but covers all FJ60s up to and including 1987.

I'll also vouch for changing all of the vacuum lines if they appear to be original. Go with silicone hose...they are better able to withstand heat.

Trouble shooting these engines can be daunting at first but if you get the FSMs and read them thoroughly, you'll be able to figure things out.

 

[tpike]

Thanks guys. I definitely wanted to get them. I just hate that feeling of working with something that is out of date and second guessing every step. Nice to know that won't be an issue.

Tom

 

[beaufort-fj60]

I would get all the FSMs. The older and newer versions are different, some are photos and some are illustrations. Having both versions helps me, more information is better. IMHO

 

[chitown40]

Silly question, but is your a/c on when it "loops"?

 

[tpike]

Actually the AC for the most part has been ripped out. Although the compressor is still bolted and belted (turning). I should probably rip it out to simplify the situation as much as possible. Another silly question "Why do you ask?"

 

[chitown40]

I ask cause if your a/c idle speed is set too high the engine will rev between fast idle speed and about 2000-2500rpm when the a/c is on. The a/c idle adjustment is on the front of the carb on the primary throttle butterfly shaft.

Also the '81 FSM emissions manual is the correct one for your truck. I bought mine from CDan and that's the one I got. You can download the chassis/body manual for your year at http://www.birfield.com in the downloads section. And the 2F manual is invaluable is you're going to be doing any engine work. The Haynes isn't bad for some stuff, but I'd go FSM. Tell us more info about the high idle problem, such as when it happens and if the choke is on when it does...etc.

Rob

 

[sportbiker929]

just ordered mine from toyota and they are dated like you said. I called and she read me the part #'s for my truck and they were right.

Mitch