oL Milk Jug [60 Build Up] (1 Viewer)

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Lol, I know. The Alcans will work just fine, but it was a nice idea.
 
Lu came up to help me get the hard top on the goat this am. That little top either got a lot heavier sitting in the shed the last 2 years or he and I are getting old and weak.
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Then we turned our attention to the ole Milk Jug to install the @lcwizard 4Plus FJ60 flip kit.
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As always, a beautiful product. This actually moved his shocks up a bit as well. The Foam Cell Pro were at the end of the droop in stock position. This makes the geometry all better too. Clean Clean look.
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We also added some ARB vent hoses to the diffs
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Cowboy made sure we did not slack too much. Before he left Lou helped me move the 💩80 back into the shop so I can get the WooPow Mosley Motors head installed next week
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damn oL MilkJug started running poorly on Tuesday afternoon. It was mainly an idle issue. Wouldn’t stay running until warmed without the choke on, or throttle applied. After it would reach a decent temp, it would lope and have a rough idle. I did a little searching and realized that was a waste.

i have the sniper and desmog kit on hand, so why not jump in. I have a DUI distributor on order, but it looks like it will be the 1st week in November until it ships.

So, i dove in while i had an hour to piddle yesterday afternoon.....i was able to remove the main actuator/smog solenoid rack in one piece. Even the bolts in the manifold came loose easily and for that, i am grateful.

Only have a couple of pics right now, because i have been tied up at work (for all the wrong reasons) most days and nights. Will piddle on it this sunday when i have time.

damn all this vacuum line junk. Reminds me of the “rats nest” under the UIM on my RX-7‘s. 11 solenoids and 68 different vacuum lines for the sequential turbo set.....this is essentially the same. Block off, idler, plugs, and voila.......mo power, leas BS.....

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Turns out it was probably the idle solenoid wire had grounded out but hell. We were committed to the Desmog anyway at this point
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Air rail gone and plugged.
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Air pump gone. Pulley via JimC
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PCV/EGR mod
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Mosley Adapter in place

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Sniper bolted in

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We left it with all the hard stuff done and waiting on a fuel pump. Throttle cable run. Wiring figured out. This went very smooth. I’m thinking with the pre work Lou did and what’s left this will be about a 10 hour job wothout going all into the the intake and exhaust. Gonna be sweet.
 
I do like those wheels, but is that as far as you can tuck them under the fenders? What do those tires actually measure out to?

The FJ60 drag link hit the rims so they needed 1” spacers.

Tires are 34x11.50 on the truck
 
Lou had the Milk Jug 85% ready this am.

I piddles with some small items while he installed the electric pump and filters.
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(Photo was taken before he zipped all the filters up)
We got it all done in a couple of hours and it fired up perfectly.
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We ended up bumping the timing to 11* and then adjusting the IAC and in about 15
minutes we had all the gaskets burned in and took it for a ride. Runs perfect.
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We used the clamp on O2 and the gasket smokes until it’s cured

 
you meathead got it going on...
 
Late 84 and up 60s have the same bolt pattern as the FJ80. Beef.

Direct bolt in.

Brand new ToyoDa pump

Took us about 4 hours. No leaks. No weaving around. Turns the 105# meats in the asphalt with no issue.

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Love those wheels. Too much blue in them, though. I know it would be wrong to rattle can those beauties...but a bit darker grey (oddball80) would be perfect.
 
Piddling around this am, I decided to toss on my Quality Power one wire 140 amp alternator this am. It came with a supplied “J” bracket to fit over the OEM mount. Simple, right? Just one wire from the alternator to the battery. Seems legit.

I loosely fitted the brackets the way they are shown to go, as well as having ref’d the one install I’d seen here on mud.

it came with some extra flat washers to shim it with, and when I referenced the other install again, didn’t look like it used any.

I knew immediately that it wasn’t lining up, but I tightened it down anyway to get a reference as to how much I would need to shim it.Looks like 1”. Ooof. Gonna have to revisit that.

I then noticed that the belt didn’t fit in the pulley groove at all. It would probably work, but I don’t roll like that. So, I’ll have to revisit that as well.

so. I punted on that project like some bad carnitas and slapped the OE one back on.

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See other member’s install below here. Pulley is different
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After that I decided to pop in the new horn contact. Mine has only been working when the wheel was in one specific position.

I popped off the horn cover & the column cover and removed the steering wheel.

While I was in there, I cleaned up most of the old dust and crap that had built up since ‘86.

The horn contact is a brass push pin w/ contact head & a spring with a very small clip, and the contact wire that slips over the end. You can definitely tell it’s worn comparing it to the new on.

The clip can be seen from overhead, on the top of the column, if you depress it. after 10 min trying to get the clip with some small tip needle nose pliers and a pick [mind you I can’t see anything that small up close] I realized 4 more screws would allow me to remove the multi switch plate.

From there it only took me about 5 min.
Thankfully I didn’t lose the original clip, as a slip of the pliers and the new one was lost in the abyss of the driveway aggregate.

I popped it all back together and it works like a charm.

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Piddling around this am, I decided to toss on my Quality Power one wire 140 amp alternator this am. It came with a supplied “J” bracket to fit over the OEM mount. Simple, right? Just one wire from the alternator to the battery. Seems legit.

I loosely fitted the brackets the way they are shown to go, as well as having ref’d the one install I’d seen here on mud.

it came with some extra flat washers to shim it with, and when I referenced the other install again, didn’t look like it used any.

I knew immediately that it wasn’t lining up, but I tightened it down anyway to get a reference as to how much I would need to shim it.Looks like 1”. Ooof. Gonna have to revisit that.

I then noticed that the belt didn’t fit in the pulley groove at all. It would probably work, but I don’t roll like that. So, I’ll have to revisit that as well.

so. I punted on that project like some bad carnitas and slapped the OE one back on.

View attachment 2488891
See other member’s install below here. Pulley is different
View attachment 2488894
View attachment 2488895View attachment 2488896
Bad carnitas..... Funny.
 
Piddling around this am, I decided to toss on my Quality Power one wire 140 amp alternator this am. It came with a supplied “J” bracket to fit over the OEM mount. Simple, right? Just one wire from the alternator to the battery. Seems legit.

I loosely fitted the brackets the way they are shown to go, as well as having ref’d the one install I’d seen here on mud.

it came with some extra flat washers to shim it with, and when I referenced the other install again, didn’t look like it used any.

I knew immediately that it wasn’t lining up, but I tightened it down anyway to get a reference as to how much I would need to shim it.Looks like 1”. Ooof. Gonna have to revisit that.

I then noticed that the belt didn’t fit in the pulley groove at all. It would probably work, but I don’t roll like that. So, I’ll have to revisit that as well.

so. I punted on that project like some bad carnitas and slapped the OE one back on.

View attachment 2488891
See other member’s install below here. Pulley is different
View attachment 2488894
View attachment 2488895View attachment 2488896

Was it this one? I was eyeballing it.

 
Piddled around a bit more yesterday.

I have had some new window weather strip pieces for the doors and some of the @TRAIL TAILOR powdecoated door handles.

I like the dechromed look, so that was also part of the process when replacing the beat weather stripping. I have new rear and side window chrome-less gaskets, and will have them done next week, i am not going to do that.

if only you could get away with removeing the upper door chrome trim that goes around the windows.......

anyhoo. The door handles are straight forward for the front doors, but the rear ones need some modifying. There is a little beak shaped piece that screws into the OEM rear handle to catch the release lever.

Pro tip: Removing the rear door handle is a snap if you unscrew the door catch/latch. You can get your socket in straight to the rear bolt. I tried it before doing this and it was most difficult, and unnecessary. I left all the lever rods in place.

when i reinstalled the latch catch on the rear handles, i immediately noticed that they didn’t come close to lining up with the release paddle. The OEM handle has a longer piece that the beak piece bolted to. I assessed it and wasn’t ready to punt (let a door handle beat me), so i removed the handle and ground the attachment piece down (It was making the slightest bit of contact on the smooth/curved side. I chopped a grade 8 washer into 1/3’rds and tacked it into place on the handle piece. Reinstalled it and it works like a charm. Not the best fix, but was the best way to do it in a pinch. One other note, you will NOT be able to reuse the m5 screw that held it on the OEM handle. It’s too short, and needs a nut on the back side since the new pieces are universal, and have larger holes. I used a Toyota m6 bolt and a m6 lock washer.

anyway, the handles look good and i like the look of the no chrome window ledges. Didn’t take pics of that. Maybe later...

another task while in there was to use sound deadener. I had a glass company replace my windshield and the 4 window regulators recently. I’d asked them to put the noico in the fron doors for me. When i picked it up, the rear (Chy-Na) ones were a no go. The front are OEM regulators, but the rear knockoff’s gear is too long. So it was hitting the inside edge of the door at the hinge area. I bought them from cruiser corps and they said they all Should fit. But they don’t. I cleaned and greased the rear regulators and the glass runs as well. They seem to go a little easier not......my weak ass kid still can’t do it without strain and Drama.

i noticed that the doors didn’t feel/sound like they had the noico installed, but i took their word for it. What I found yesterday, answered my questions.....

they stuck the noico right on top of the inside of the door panels....right behind the door panels......fixed that too.....it was actually really funny. “That’s not how any of this works” was my immediate reaction....

🤷🏻‍♂️ seems legit.
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Test fitting the hack job....
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Can definitely see the size of the gear isn’t the same. These were also not NEARLY the same quality....which is why i cleaned up and reused the OEM ones, as opposed to chopping off that regulator gear To make it work......maybe i can return them....
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