oL Milk Jug [60 Build Up] (1 Viewer)

under_psi

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Piddled around a bit more yesterday.

I have had some new window weather strip pieces for the doors and some of the @TRAIL TAILOR powdecoated door handles.

I like the dechromed look, so that was also part of the process when replacing the beat weather stripping. I have new rear and side window chrome-less gaskets, and will have them done next week, i am not going to do that.

if only you could get away with removeing the upper door chrome trim that goes around the windows.......

anyhoo. The door handles are straight forward for the front doors, but the rear ones need some modifying. There is a little beak shaped piece that screws into the OEM rear handle to catch the release lever.

Pro tip: Removing the rear door handle is a snap if you unscrew the door catch/latch. You can get your socket in straight to the rear bolt. I tried it before doing this and it was most difficult, and unnecessary. I left all the lever rods in place.

when i reinstalled the latch catch on the rear handles, i immediately noticed that they didn’t come close to lining up with the release paddle. The OEM handle has a longer piece that the beak piece bolted to. I assessed it and wasn’t ready to punt (let a door handle beat me), so i removed the handle and ground the attachment piece down (It was making the slightest bit of contact on the smooth/curved side. I chopped a grade 8 washer into 1/3’rds and tacked it into place on the handle piece. Reinstalled it and it works like a charm. Not the best fix, but was the best way to do it in a pinch. One other note, you will NOT be able to reuse the m5 screw that held it on the OEM handle. It’s too short, and needs a nut on the back side since the new pieces are universal, and have larger holes. I used a Toyota m6 bolt and a m6 lock washer.

anyway, the handles look good and i like the look of the no chrome window ledges. Didn’t take pics of that. Maybe later...

another task while in there was to use sound deadener. I had a glass company replace my windshield and the 4 window regulators recently. I’d asked them to put the noico in the fron doors for me. When i picked it up, the rear (Chy-Na) ones were a no go. The front are OEM regulators, but the rear knockoff’s gear is too long. So it was hitting the inside edge of the door at the hinge area. I bought them from cruiser corps and they said they all Should fit. But they don’t. I cleaned and greased the rear regulators and the glass runs as well. They seem to go a little easier not......my weak ass kid still can’t do it without strain and Drama.

i noticed that the doors didn’t feel/sound like they had the noico installed, but i took their word for it. What I found yesterday, answered my questions.....

they stuck the noico right on top of the inside of the door panels....right behind the door panels......fixed that too.....it was actually really funny. “That’s not how any of this works” was my immediate reaction....

🤷🏻‍♂️ seems legit.
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Test fitting the hack job....
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Can definitely see the size of the gear isn’t the same. These were also not NEARLY the same quality....which is why i cleaned up and reused the OEM ones, as opposed to chopping off that regulator gear To make it work......maybe i can return them....
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dnp

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Piddling around this am, I decided to toss on my Quality Power one wire 140 amp alternator this am. It came with a supplied “J” bracket to fit over the OEM mount. Simple, right? Just one wire from the alternator to the battery. Seems legit.

I loosely fitted the brackets the way they are shown to go, as well as having ref’d the one install I’d seen here on mud.

it came with some extra flat washers to shim it with, and when I referenced the other install again, didn’t look like it used any.

I knew immediately that it wasn’t lining up, but I tightened it down anyway to get a reference as to how much I would need to shim it.Looks like 1”. Ooof. Gonna have to revisit that.

I then noticed that the belt didn’t fit in the pulley groove at all. It would probably work, but I don’t roll like that. So, I’ll have to revisit that as well.

so. I punted on that project like some bad carnitas and slapped the OE one back on.

View attachment 2488891
See other member’s install below here. Pulley is different
View attachment 2488894
View attachment 2488895View attachment 2488896
Other than the pulley, did the alternator and bracket fit / line up ok or was there a problem with that too? I'm in bad need of a decent alternator on my 60! The LED bulbs helped greatly at night (no voltage change when they're turned on or on high beam), but that occasional discharge flicker on the Sniper screen lets me know I need more charging power......

The pulley from your old alternator wouldn't fit the new one, correct?
 

under_psi

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Other than the pulley, did the alternator and bracket fit / line up ok or was there a problem with that too? I'm in bad need of a decent alternator on my 60! The LED bulbs helped greatly at night (no voltage change when they're turned on or on high beam), but that occasional discharge flicker on the Sniper screen lets me know I need more charging power......

The pulley from your old alternator wouldn't fit the new one, correct?

Pretty sure the pulley would fit. But I didn’t want to remove it, and sell or keep as a spare.

I am pretty sure that the supplied brackets will fit, but i need to shim it forward a bit. It uses washers to do that. Will revisit. i left a message with them Saturday. They called me back first thing yesterday am. They’re sending me a 5/8” width pulley. No charge. And i will send the other one back.
 

wngrog

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As for the flicker on the Sniper readout. My 60
Never does it but my 55 with external regulator is all over the place. 12.4 to 14.4. Not drive or throttle dependent.
The stock meters all stay the same. It is weird. My one wire internal regulator on goat never moves or gives me the blink.

All that said, I never have a problem with my battery actually being charged. I camp overnight a lot with fridge going and phones charging and always have plenty of juice in the am. I don’t have a problem with the stock output alternators.
 

under_psi

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It’s the yellow flashing for the 12.xx or whatever voltage sets it off, that bothers me......
 

dnp

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It’s the yellow flashing for the 12.xx or whatever voltage sets it off, that bothers me......
That's my issue as well. It used to only do it at night with the incandescent bulbs, but that shows me there's not enough "headroom" to make me comfortable it can handle any decent load
I agree. It’s maddening. Not worth the non OEM alternator maddening to me
The photos Lou posted show a fairly clean install to me. Heck, with the Sniper, etc., it's not gonna be stock anyway, so I'd rather have function over form......................
 

wngrog

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That's my issue as well. It used to only do it at night with the incandescent bulbs, but that shows me there's not enough "headroom" to make me comfortable it can handle any decent load
The photos Lou posted show a fairly clean install to me. Heck, with the Sniper, etc., it's not gonna be stock anyway, so I'd rather have function over form......................

Oh I agree if the quality is there. That’s why I like Toyota alternators. I don’t even think about them. Of course the Sniper blink on the one of 3 I run reminds me
 

under_psi

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Took the oL milk jug up to canton to drop some stuff today, when i arrived i had spring a small coolant leak. Turnt out to be off of the splitter on top of the back part head, on the driver’s side that goes to the rear heater.

i took it easy back home and only lost a little coolant when i had to stop here and there.....

i‘ve been wanting to eliminate the rear heater and lines something bad, and this presented itself, so i had to jump....

crap for pix, but You get the idea. Removed the splitter for the rear lines and the hard lines as well. Jumped the lower valve port to the hose/pipe piece and moved over to the leak. I removed the vacuum valve and accessed the problematic hose. It was an original hose, as most of them are still, and was itching to blow.

I removed the horizontal barb piece and instead of trying to cap/plug that threaded section, i decided to weld a bolt into the barb end of the piece that i removed, smoothed it up and screwed it back in. No leaks and a about 4-5 fewer hoses and bends to worry about cutting loose.

Rear heater hoses removed in first pic. Valve mod in second. Disregard the old hose still in the way. Didn’t get it off yet and had to come to work where we aren’t selling any food so i decided to type this and finish with a run on sentence.

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Damn man, just read through all the pages so far. Crazy awesome build up. Bummer on those rear door regulators. I have a similar problem, and was about to order those exact regulators from cruiser corps. Mine are hard to roll up and down and also pull the gasket down with em.
 

wngrog

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Damn man, just read through all the pages so far. Crazy awesome build up. Bummer on those rear door regulators. I have a similar problem, and was about to order those exact regulators from cruiser corps. Mine are hard to roll up and down and also pull the gasket down with em.

You can replace the gasket and clean it all up good and fix that issue. Look for my R2D2 build thread. I have all the info on how.
 

under_psi

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Long drives are great....but sometimes you have to pee in a bottle and its easier with cruise.....or, a hand throttle to meet half way, and it can help on trails when some throttle is needed in uphill climbs when the brake and clutch is also called for....

#biwinning

As luck would have it, the shop cats were also on duty to make this a smooth installation.....they’re super excited too.....

so. I ordered a teraflop “gasp” hand throttle for a Jeep TJ, as i had experience with one previously in my old Jeep. yes, i researched and saw the toyota knob that goes in the dash by the column......but, didn’t really dig that location....and some of you may not “dig” my choice.....cool. No worries.....this one is easy to install (kind of) and even easier to bring in and out of duty....

The TF hand throttle came with an L bracket....to make it work, i had to put it in the vise and flatten it out to make it work right.....easy as pie....

the only catch is you need to have some sort of way to connect it to the TB linkage.....sniper in my case....luckily i had a pedal adapter from a lokar shifter I’d dissected at one point, and used it....yeah, not the best way, but i looped the line through the pedal bushing piece and used the supplied crimp that teraflex sent.....anyhoo, you get the idea.

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under_psi

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No updates other than no updates. All i do is drive this thing. It’s perfect......have some parts stashed waiting on other parts, and well, waiting on a couple bum vendors for some as well. Most of the stuff i have to tinker with can wait, as i have stashed my pile for now in preparation to move.....fingers crossed it all works out.....

may have time to have some speakers and wiring installed this next week or so.....need to fill the holes in the door panels....
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