OK...Now what? Diff. locks #@&%

[In2cruisers]

I bought a 1993 FZJ80 last summer from a reputible used car lot that I have had dealings with in the past for a great price, had 143k on it and was completely stock and well cared for (So.Cal) and feel that the diff locks were very rarely if ever used.
[B]#1)[/B] I have never been able to get the center diff. lock light to come on and unsure if I have ever been able to get it engaged. January I picked up a new OEM center lock switch (didn't have one) and installed it. Pushed the switch in and nothing......tried high, low, neutral...nothing. Today I did the "pin 7" mod. and again nothing.....
[B]#2)[/B] I have never been able to get the front and rear diff. lock lights to stop blinking.....and are unsure if they are engaging.

I am an old school cruiser head 40s and 60s and know little to nothing of these computer help/controled due-hickies

It you know of someone you would recomend in the Seattle area to look things over........please speak up ......verry little time to dig into things like this now....due to a new baby girl...
Sorry if these questions are old and/or rehashed, but could use the help of this wise forum

Thanks for the help

 

[Cruisin'Carolina]

Do a search, this topic was discussed just last week.

If the center lock didn't engage before, adding a switch to gain additional control over that will not fix anything. Same with the pin mod. For those to have any effect you would have to have a working system beforehand.

From what I understand, there are up to 3 switches on the transfer case, at least one of which that tells the dash/computer that the lever is in low.......I think it is the front one......and if you are in low, but the dash doesn't "know" that, then you won't get a light, nor will ABS light come on, nor will FF,RR engage with solid light either....

Of course there may be more wrong than the switch....but that and a good hour of reading here using search should point you in the right direction.

 

[Doc]

If the lights are blinking, they are not engaged. Well, I suppose it could malfunction, but the blinking is supposed to tell you they aren't locked. They'll stay lit continuously when locked.

 

[atijerino]

I had the very same problem that you described and was getting worried, then last week the parking lot at work was very icy, I got the cruiser into L gear and starting driving and did a U-turn and inmediately the ABS light and the Center diff lock light went on. I guess it just needed a low traction surface. I then engaged the FR an RR lockers and the lights were blinking for a while and after a couple of minutes they engaged.
Remember you will need a LOW traction surface and you will need the L gear center diff engaged before the FR and RR locker engage. Maek sure you do few sharp turns.
I got my cruiser from a couple that never had it in Low gear or used the diff lockers and they needed exercising, this maybe your case.

___________________
'94 FZJ80 w/factory lockers. They are alive!

 

[RavenTai]

You will not get the front and rear lockers to engage until the center is locked.

First thing I would check is the "10A gage" and the "30A Diff" fuses, then order the FSM and EWD from Dan. Wile you are waiting for those try hitting the CDL switch with the key on engine off and see if you can hear the center motor turning. That will let you know if it is closing but not indicating or if you have deeper problems

 

[Gold Finger]

This problem with the CDL occurred to me and has only just been rectified after blundering about for a fair while. Actuating CDL switch on console produced neither a locked CDL, nor indicator lights for it or the ABS indicator lights. RDL and FDL would not operate and there respective indicator lights just blinked continuously.

The CDL Actuator was found to be faulty; this was replaced care of C-Dan.

The CDL still did not actuate CDL indicator switch on the transfer box switch found to be faulty, replaced it.

The CDL still not actuating, the CDL switch was working when manually actuated but not when screwed into the housing. A thinner seating washer installed under the switch and CDL now works and so now does RDL and the FDL.

This makes the process sound very short and simple but because of my circumstances and lack of FSM made the diagnosis and plan of action protracted.