how many miles are on the block?
it has 80.xxx but after the rebuild last time I put every thing new in it and now it has 1000 miles on it. the truck is a garage kept now until I go back home.
The oil pump has a pressure relief valve that sends oil back to the sump when pressure exceeds about 70psi. If you do your research, you might be able to modify or replace that spring to increase oil pressure at higher RPM. I believe there is also a oil pressure relief valve in the oil cooler too.
this is what I'm looking for
^^^The relief valve spring may be weak, causing reduced pressure.^^^
it could be.
the 1fz also isnt made for those kinda rpm's at revvs that high the oil could be shearing off the crank wearing the bearings causing low oil pressure?
because that I need for some high performance parts Lol
Stateside you may not find too many answers, but it appears that your rig is in the Middle-East where there are folks who regularly pushing these motors into stratospheric HP figures. I am sure that someone has a modification to the pump/housing/valving that will meet your needs.
Steve
actuality the guys here did well. they opened my mind up to many things. yah I'm from there but still no body know any thing about this case.
how did you determine that there isn't enough oil pressure?
If I were to guess the builder is telling you this after the engine blew.
yeb he told me that because that I'm wondering and looking for it just to be sure that every thing is fine.
two pressure relief valves, one at the oil cooler and the other at the oil pump
thanks!
Exactly how have you identified that the pump is the issue?
The 1FZ pump is a very simple unit, and providing the clearances are correct there is no reason for it to provide inadequate pressure/volume.
The 1FZ oil system has two pressure relief valves as was stated earlier - increasing the spring pressure or shimming the springs will achieve additional pressure - but providing the clearances in the motor are right you should not need this. (my turbocharged set-up never experienced any oil pressure issues and was revved to 6300rpm+ regularly)
The oil pump is located in the timing chain cover - and about the only additional thing you can do to increase oil delivery is to port the inlet orifice to remove all sharp edges.
It's higly unlikely that the oil pump is the issue.
So, a few questions -
What oil pressure are you recording VS RPM?
Do you have a dyno trace showing RPM vs pressure?
What exactly is 'failing'? (ie has it dropped a particular main bearing repeatedly?)
What main bearing clearances are you using during assembly?
What type/brand of bearings are in the motor?
What oil are you using?
What sort of sump baffling are you using? (the stock sump has zero baffling)
Are you running an external oil cooler system? (if so, what circuit are you using?)
I agree and thanks for all what did you say. I'll take your words seriously and keep them in mind.
What oil pressure are you recording VS RPM?
I never gauge the pressure but this time I'll do when I go back home.
Do you have a dyno trace showing RPM vs pressure? no
What exactly is 'failing'? (ie has it dropped a particular main bearing
repeatedly?)
there is no failing the engine was running great also now after the rebuilt, but because I thought it blow up for oil issues, I'm thinking to do something with it or just keep it how it is like right now.
What type/brand of bearings are in the motor?
the short block is stuck just 100mm pistons.
What oil are you using?
regular oil for the engine
Are you running an external oil cooler system?
no
Thanks for your recommendations and the info that you said . sorry for that some questions I can't understand them I'll ask some one to explain them for me.
about the cams they are custom made Brian Crower. they were sat on one of my friends engine and I liked them and I bought them in a good price.
does any one know any high performance oil pump for this engine?
