Oil Pressure Sender Problems

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reddog90

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I apologize for the novel. I’m having trouble diagnosing some problems with my new oil pressure sender unit and I want to list out everything I have tried so far. Here’s how it looked when I got the truck:

aMH7MNi.jpg


I had my wife watch the oil pressure gauge while I touched the stripped wire to the broken connector on the old sender, gauge in the dash worked and the needle was at about half while the truck was idling. So I ordered a new OEM sender unit from CC and got some 14-16 ga spade connectors.

I put on a female spade connector, put some Teflon tape on the sender unit's threads and installed it. Started the truck and gauge in the dash read 0. I decided to test the sender. I grounded a test light on the battery, touched the light to the brass connector on the new sender looking for a dim light at idle and got nothing.

I did some more research on mud and found old threads with people saying to not use Teflon tape since OEM senders ground through their threads to the engine. But the FSM does say to use “sealant” on the threads and the old sender definitely had some sort of old sealant on it. So I took the new sender out, cleaned the threads, reinstalled and still the gauge read 0.

Then I tried to rule out a grounding issue somewhere else. I connected a test light from the battery to the spade connector I had installed and the gauge went full tilt over H.

Now I’m confused. My neighbor helping me delicately slips my new spade connector onto the new sender unit while the truck is idling and the gauge works properly. I think “WTF?” and reach in to grab the spade connector to feel how he put it on the sender, and then the signal to the dash went out and gauge dropped back to 0.

So now I assume it’s a problem with the spade connector I put on. So I removed the spade connector, start the truck, touch the stripped wire to the connector on the new sender unit and gauge in the dash reads 0.

With the new sending unit still installed and wires not connected, I connected a test light from the battery and tested for a ground on the housing of the sending unit and the brass threads and got a bright light. This makes me think the sending unit is grounding properly.

I try to go back to step 1 by reinstalling the old sending unit and touching the stripped wire to the broken connector, but the gauge now reads 0. I test for a ground and it is grounding properly. So now I’m worried I burned out the gauge in my dash. So I connect the test light to the battery and touch the stripped wire, and the gauge moved. So my gauge shouldn’t be burned out.

I am very confused what to try next. It seems like my gauge in my dash is working, my wiring is good, and the new sender is grounding properly. And I have removed the possibility of a bad spade connector from the equation. Is it possibly my sender unit is bad? Any ideas on what to try next?
 
Dont use tape on the threads...it needs to ground to the block.
Depending on what sending unit you received, some have a Male spade connection on them that is NOT the connection point for the gauge wire.
Gauge wire goes to the round terminal in the center of the unit.
 
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Dont use tape on the threads...it needs to ground to the block.
Depending on what sending unit you received, some have a Male spade connection on them that is the connection point for the gauge wire.
Gauge wire goes to the round terminal in the center of the unit.

I cleaned the threads on the new sender to rule out the Teflon tape preventing a good ground. OEM senders do not have a male spade connector on the housing for a ground.
 
I think City Racer carries new connectors for that.
 
I cleaned the threads on the new sender to rule out the Teflon tape preventing a good ground. OEM senders do not have a male spade connector on the housing for a ground.

there was supposed to be NOT in there....and yes later senders have a spade terminal on them...that is not to be used as the gauge terminal.
 
there was supposed to be NOT in there....and yes later senders have a spade terminal on them...that is not to be used as the gauge terminal.

Sorry, should have said oem for my year w/ an oil cooler. Here is the sender unit I ordered

Oil Pressure Sender - w/ Oil Cooler - OEM

I used a female spade connector to connect to the brass ring on the sender unit.
 
There are 2 senders that both work. The "old" ones are grounded by the housing.
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83520-55011

Mr. T figured the ground problem out and modified the sender.

The later ones have a Male spade ground tab. Now you can use all the teflon you want if you use te ground tab.
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83520-35020

Here is how to test your sender. You can use your test light for this.
Image-30_crop.webp



Oh, and do yourself a favor....... buy OEM. They are not expensive.

HTH,

Rudi
 
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Is there a ground wire in the harness that you plug into for those later sending units? I guess you could just add a solo ground a wire to retrofit the older trucks with the newer sending unit.
 
Is there a ground wire in the harness that you plug into for those later sending units? I guess you could just add a solo ground a wire to retrofit the older trucks with the newer sending unit.

'79 and later have a (dedicated) ground wire. For the earlier years you have to add one.

Rudi
 
@bj40green Thanks for the info. I did buy an OEM sender. I actually found several old posts of yours about senders that were helpful. Does "impress battery voltage on the gauge terminal" mean connect my test light to my positive battery terminal and then touch it to the connector on my sender?
 
@bj40green Thanks for the info. I did buy an OEM sender. I actually found several old posts of yours about senders that were helpful. Does "impress battery voltage on the gauge terminal" mean connect my test light to my positive battery terminal and then touch it to the connector on my sender?

Yes.
 

Truck idling, test light hooked to positive battery terminal:

Touching connector on sender = no light
Touching sender housing = light
Touching sender base threads = light

So the sender is grounded fine but not working.
 
How long did you hook up? The oil pressure has to activate the sender. That takes 5 to 7 seconds.
Rev up the rpm's a bit.
Question; if you take the sender out, is there oil coming out?
 
I apologize for the novel. I’m having trouble diagnosing some problems with my new oil pressure sender unit and I want to list out everything I have tried so far. Here’s how it looked when I got the truck:

aMH7MNi.jpg


I had my wife watch the oil pressure gauge while I touched the stripped wire to the broken connector on the old sender, gauge in the dash worked and the needle was at about half while the truck was idling. So I ordered a new OEM sender unit from CC and got some 14-16 ga spade connectors.

I put on a female spade connector, put some Teflon tape on the sender unit's threads and installed it. Started the truck and gauge in the dash read 0. I decided to test the sender. I grounded a test light on the battery, touched the light to the brass connector on the new sender looking for a dim light at idle and got nothing.

I did some more research on mud and found old threads with people saying to not use Teflon tape since OEM senders ground through their threads to the engine. But the FSM does say to use “sealant” on the threads and the old sender definitely had some sort of old sealant on it. So I took the new sender out, cleaned the threads, reinstalled and still the gauge read 0.

Then I tried to rule out a grounding issue somewhere else. I connected a test light from the battery to the spade connector I had installed and the gauge went full tilt over H.

Now I’m confused. My neighbor helping me delicately slips my new spade connector onto the new sender unit while the truck is idling and the gauge works properly. I think “WTF?” and reach in to grab the spade connector to feel how he put it on the sender, and then the signal to the dash went out and gauge dropped back to 0.

So now I assume it’s a problem with the spade connector I put on. So I removed the spade connector, start the truck, touch the stripped wire to the connector on the new sender unit and gauge in the dash reads 0.

With the new sending unit still installed and wires not connected, I connected a test light from the battery and tested for a ground on the housing of the sending unit and the brass threads and got a bright light. This makes me think the sending unit is grounding properly.

I try to go back to step 1 by reinstalling the old sending unit and touching the stripped wire to the broken connector, but the gauge now reads 0. I test for a ground and it is grounding properly. So now I’m worried I burned out the gauge in my dash. So I connect the test light to the battery and touch the stripped wire, and the gauge moved. So my gauge shouldn’t be burned out.

I am very confused what to try next. It seems like my gauge in my dash is working, my wiring is good, and the new sender is grounding properly. And I have removed the possibility of a bad spade connector from the equation. Is it possibly my sender unit is bad? Any ideas on what to try next?


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How long did you hook up? The oil pressure has to activate the sender. That takes 5 to 7 seconds.
Rev up the rpm's a bit.
Question; if you take the sender out, is there oil coming out?

Truck was idling for maybe 30 seconds before I used the test light. But I did not hold the test light on the sender connector for more than a second or two before checking the housing and then the base threads. I will try again this afternoon and hold it on the sender connector for several seconds and try reving. Yes, oil comes out if I remove the sender. And I'll note again that when I touched the stripped wire to the broken connector on the old sender, the gauge in the dash worked.
 
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I have an aftermarket spare sender that I know works, if you would like to give it a try. Glad to send it to you for postage.

I am following the thread because I am going through the same diagnostics. In my case there is something wrong with my dash gauge output. It moves but not in proportion to the oil pressure measured by a mechanical gauge.
 
I tried the test light again, but held it on the sender terminal for ~10 seconds. No light. Cruiser Corps is sending me a replacement OEM sender and I have a proper wiring kit coming from @RAGINGMATT.


I included a Marine Grade Heat-shrink - Crimp Butt Connector with your kit

just dropped off at the post office for Ya ............


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