Oil pressure gauge issue

[ICY80]

Had a local shop replace the fan bracket assembly on our 100 series. Now the oil pressure gauge is pegged. It doesn’t move at all period. Stuck on high while it’s running and off. Anybody have a clue what could’ve caused this? Looked for loose connections. No luck.

 

[kbfj621989]

Unplug the gauge wire and tell us what happens to the reading.

 

[2001LC]

When the fan bracket, is R&R. The oil sending unit (sensor) and crank sensor wires, is routed behind the fan bracket.
Most likely: They either routed wrong and possible cut wire or pulled wire housing block (plug) of oil sending unit.

 

[MitchVV]

If the wire is fixed, does the gauge return to normal?

 

[2001LC]

Yes!

 

[MitchVV]

Could this frayed wire cause the vehicle to feel hesitant since it also houses the crank sensor wire also? The hesitation feels like the car goes from 1st gear straight to 4th gear.

I took my 2000LC 100 to a shop to replace the timing belt. During the replacement, they recommended replacing the radiator, so I gave them the go ahead and I requested they also replace the heater Tee's at the same time. When I got the vehicle back, a coolant leak developed in the rear riser which I then had them replace.

I got the vehicle back again, and after a day of driving, I notice the oil gauge pegged and also an intermediate hesitation in power, I immediately checked the oil which was okay, but the coolant was on low. . I went back to the shop and they did not see or feel anything wrong, topped off the coolant, and they suggested that maybe my gauge was broken all along! I confronted them with this post, and they verified that they did in fact run the wire incorrectly and it had been frayed, so they are now replacing the harness.

 

[2001LC]

Could this frayed wire cause the vehicle to feel hesitant since it also houses the crank sensor wire also? The hesitation feels like the car goes from 1st gear straight to 4th gear.

I took my 2000LC 100 to a shop to replace the timing belt. During the replacement, they recommended replacing the radiator, so I gave them the go ahead and I requested they also replace the heater Tee's at the same time. When I got the vehicle back, a coolant leak developed in the rear riser which I then had them replace.

I got the vehicle back again, and after a day of driving, I notice the oil gauge pegged and also an intermediate hesitation in power, I immediately checked the oil which was okay, but the coolant was on low. . I went back to the shop and they did not see or feel anything wrong, topped off the coolant, and they suggested that maybe my gauge was broken all along! I confronted them with this post, and they verified that they did in fact run the wire incorrectly and it had been frayed, so they are now replacing the harness.

They not only ran wire wrong rout, but didn't burp air from coolant. What else did they touch! You can count-on, they didn't service properly.

Coolant gauge reading low, after warm up. When read fine just before service. Is (99/100) due to level being so low, coolant does reach water temp sensor. If engine run to long, when this low on coolant. It can overheat and warp heads. If heads and or gasket have been damaged. Compression is now the concern, along with coolant getting into cylinders and on into oil.

Water riser leaking (rear water bypass metal tube to heater Tee). Excessive lateral force applied to metal riser pipe, during heater tee replacement.

If wire from crank sensor cut, just partially through. It may sometimes touch more or less as it moves around, changing current (resistance) to ECM. I "suppose" this could affect engine performance. If cut all the way through, engine will not run.

When replacing radiator, we lose some A/T fluid (ATF). Make sure ATF level correct. Shift can suffer, from improper ATF (mixing fluids) or level.

Whomever is working on your vehicle. Don't use any longer. They'll do much more damage than is apparent. I recommend you use, either a specialty Land Cruiser shop or Dealership. May cost more in the short term. But will save big in the long run. If they're a good shop. Mark of a "good shop" Mechanics have been their for many years, and shop has low employee turnover rate.

 

[MitchVV]

Yeah well, I took a chance with a long established shop in my area, and the owner (2nd generation) is the mechanic. Imports are supposedly their specialty.
It's getting harder and harder to find good mechanics! The LC guys in my area are booked out months and are many miles away.

My last experience with my local Toyota dealer for another issue did not go well either. They used the excuse that they have not worked on those "old" cars in a long time.

 

[x8o8drifter]

Yeah well, I took a chance with a long established shop in my area, and the owner (2nd generation) is the mechanic. Imports are supposedly their specialty.
It's getting harder and harder to find good mechanics! The LC guys in my area are booked out months and are many miles away.

My last experience with my local Toyota dealer for another issue did not go well either. They used the excuse that they have not worked on those "old" cars in a long time.

Tell them your gonna report their ass to corperate then. (50/50 they give em s*** for not touching it or even worse like they implied cant/wont because its too old, and threaten to take away their franchise if they don't work on it. They may also try to help you find a place that will do the work.)
Friend who had a Celica Supra was told this exact thing in Vegas around 05. This is what he did and Toyota corporate called their bluff and they did the work. (and yes it was done well)
Bet they change their tune.
Its not like its a 1st gen Celica.

 

[ICY80]

Unplug the gauge wire and tell us what happens to the reading.

Unplugged the wire from the sensor and it still reads pegged out. Completely forgot about fixing it, haven’t been driving it at all recently, now I am back on it trying to figure it out.