Oil pressure gauge dead

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Joined
Dec 5, 2004
Threads
22
Messages
65
Location
Mongolia
Hi again, well we are still fighting the 62 but making some progress. Installed the new distributor and petronix kit and coil and it ran great except for a bad hesitation at -20C and colder. Anyway it is getting warmer so am not worried about that but have dived into the none working oil and volt meters. The volt gauge appears to be dead because I tested the conections listed in the manual as being for the volt meter in the connector behind the dash and it had normal reading but the gauge doesn't move.

More importantly the oil pressure also does not work and never has since I first saw the truck. We have tried three different senders and done all the tests in the manual. When testing the sender the light comes on once then almost goes off (very dim) with only the tinyest of pulseing. When testing the reciever we got a fliker or two and not much else. The resistance across the terminals should 55 oms according to the manual but measures 67. One interesting thing is that the drawing of the gauge connections shown in the manual for the 60 seris shows a wire on the bottom post below the connector which goes over to a retangular box on the left side. Our does not have this but does have a stick patch about the place where the rectange would have sat. Does anyone know if that is an important part?

I would be happy to put in a mechanical gauge but being in Mongolia don't know where to start to look for one. Russian units are too big to thread into the existing hole.

Any bright ideas would be appreciated.

Marlow
 
Don't know about the stock wiring but do know about Toyota guages in general....they stink. They're really nothing but dummy lights.

Get a mechanical and make it fit. You'll actually be able to see your pressure vary with RPMs. Think of it as insurance. And do it now!
 
All electric (not "electronic") sending units for gauges are variable resistors, & the gauges are calibrated ohmmeters. Sending units for idiot lights are switches. There are only three components to each setup: sender, circuit, & gauge (light).

Take the wire off the sending unit & ground it. The gauge should peg high, or the idiot light should come on. If not, you have a bad circuit and/or gauge/light. Ground the gauge or light directly - if it pegs high, you have a bad circuit. If not, you have a bad gauge/light.
 
When we take the wire from the sending unit and ground it the gauge pegs high. Does this mean that the circuit and gauge are ok?
 

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