oil pan #1 removal

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Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Threads
17
Messages
170
Location
Bartlett, Tn
Anyone pulled the oilpan from the block while in their 80? I've got all the bolts out, just having issues bustung the seal loose. If anyone has done it, what did you use and where? I've tried the pry area near the bell housing but just can't get any room or leverage. Also, did you have to lift the engine to get the pan out?

Thanks!
 
Good write up, thanks. Oh it's a horrible job! Still trying to get the timing cover off, then I think everything that can leak does. PS leaks, birfs or calipers appear to now, sort of wish I'd just us yanked the engine, may still depending on what the bearings and cylinders look like.
 
Timing cover? Sounds like you're doing "other" things "while you're in there", LOL. This is the dreaded curse that we all have to shoulder!!

Yes, pull the engine out and be done with it.
 
Think i've got a bad slipper tensioner. Also leaks more than BP and Exxon...
 
Think i've got a bad slipper tensioner. Also leaks more than BP and Exxon...

Well, that's a bummer. So, possibly new timing set may need to be ordered. Yeah, I'd pull the engine, put it on a stand and enjoy this process, if possible! Sure is easy on the back vs hunched over for hours and hours.

This thread has some pics and info that you may find useful should you want to pull the engine. I started with a simple head gasket project, then ended up pulling the block out eventually.
 
Oil leak anyone?



ForumRunner_20130421_112139.webp

ForumRunner_20130421_112139.webp
 
Waiting on my neighbor for the cherry picker now. Also, regarding your thread, Wally world sells the 2.5 gal PP for pretty cheap.

And... Lmao! Then it further dawned on me, the wife ain't home!



ForumRunner_20130421_140817.webp

ForumRunner_20130421_140817.webp
 
Edited the other post ,didn't realize I could with the mud app...
 
Just a screenshot of the dishwasher idea...
 
Ok, pan is loose, stupid dipstick tube bolt.... Anyway, I've got the picker on it and it hoisted up a little but I can't get the pan out. Hitting the track bar, sway bar, part of the bell housing and whatever that welded in bar is below the front crack arch... Help!
 
Been there done that. I don't know what you've done but I'll try to explain everything you need to do to get the configuration needed to get the thing out. You will need to remove at least one side of the sway bar, drivers side if I recall. The other things I did was set jack stands on a high setting and under the vehicle frame just behind the front tires. Then drop the front axle down as far as it will go. Then pull the motor up off the mounts as far as it will come (about an inch or maybe a little more before it starts lifting the whole vehicle). That should get everything where you need it to get the pan out. Took me the better part of a day to figure this out.
 
Copy/paste from my FAQ thread, maybe something will help:
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It went something like this:
- wash the underside of your vehicle thoroughly at a car was. You'll thank yourself later!
- park on top of 4x4 or 6x6 wood or a set of ramps. Just make sure that you can still reach everything w/o tiring yourself
- wear safety glasses to prevent oil & crud going into your eye
- drain engine oil
- remove the oil filter (facilitates access to motor mounts)
- remove hood and mark where the brackets went (only if you're using an overhead hoist to pull up on the engine)
- remove the radiator cooling fan from the water pump and push it aside
- raise the engine as much as possible. Keep a close eye on the radiator fan and radiator shroud coming into contact with each other. An overhead hoist stays out of your work area the best.
- remove the two nuts per motor mount.
- remove dip stick holder.
- Remove the two bolts that attach to the a/c compressor main bracket
- remove two connectors (one is oil low level, the other one is for a sensor pickup)
- remove the front sway bar completely. You can keep it in there but just ain't worth aggravation or head bonking!
- remove the lowest (smaller) oil pan. The longer you let the oil drain, the less mess for later!
- remove LOTS of bolts and four nuts from the higher oil pan. Make careful note of what bolts go where. I used a old shipping box to place the bolts as they came out of the engine. There are several lengths/sizes/grades of bolts.
- make sure to remove the four bolts that are INSIDE the large oil pan.
- work the FIPG loose by working the larger oil pan. This will take some elbow grease and maybe some heat from a propate/butane torch. Resist the urge to use a chiesel/screwdriver/pry bar to separate.
- work the large oil pan out while paying close attention to the oil pickup screen.
- Place the large oil pan such that the oil pickup screen isn't distrubed.
- clean off the old sealant on both surfaces.
- Apply new sealant or FIPG and wait for it to become less tacky. If it's too tacky, then you'll smear as you install the large oil pan.
- Reverse the above steps for installation
- Clean off old FIPG from the smaller oil pan. There're grooves in this oil pan that needs to be cleaned out well before the new FIPG is applied.
-Install the smaller oil pan
-Add oil, filter, tighten motor mounts, install fan, hood, etc.

Gotchas to avoid:
-Protect the oil pickup screen
-while cleaning old FIPG, be sure to pick up bits and pieces from the large oil pan as you're working. I used a shop vac.
-keep the dust level down while everything exposed. Don't sweep the shop floor!
-have assitance for hood removal. It's not heavy but can be unwieldy!
-I try not to use air tools to remove the bolts, don't want a broken bolt head here!
-have LOTS of clean rags. This is not the place to be reusing old, dusty rags.
-pay close attention to the torque values of the various bolts. Don't confuse IN-LBS with FT-LBS numbers in the FSM.
 
Not yet, shut it down last night for family time and workinf now.
 
The reason I had to go behind the front wheels to support the frame is because at the time I only had the 3 ton jack stands. If you had the 6 tons, you might could go further up the frame towards the front of the vehicle. It's all about getting the vehicle front end up high enough so the front axle can be dropped down low enough to get the clearance to pull the pan out. Just be careful. Good to have the engine hoist engaged too so the whole shebang can't drop to far if something goes wrong.
 
Hood fell on my head lol, luckily the boom caught most of the impact.
 

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