Oil Drain Interval

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 13, 2003
Threads
834
Messages
5,790
Location
North Front Range, CO
I e-mailed Rotella about the oil drain interval, this was their reply. It sounds like what Cary says.

"Both ROTELLA T SAE 15W-40 and ROTELLA T Synthetic SAE 5W-40 are extended drain capable.


Recommending a drain interval for a specific engine is risky, without knowing the oil system capacity, what oil filtration is used, the current condition of the engine, how it has been maintained, what duty cycle it operates in, what fuel economy it gets, how well the engine is operated, and what engine life the owner expects.



A decision to extend oil drain interval should balance expected benefits against risks that might accrue. The engine manufacturer recommends a drain interval that in their experience provides optimum engine performance and durability. To maintain warranty coverage, you should follow their recommendation. Choosing a longer drain interval invariably involves some compromise.



You may want to consider extending drain interval once your engine is beyond warranty, especially if you operate in light duty service. But understand risks you might incur. In the process of protecting your engine from excessive wear and deposits, oil additives are consumed. At some point, no matter what oil you use, oil will reach a condition where its performance is compromised. Finding that point requires used oil analysis. To find the optimum drain interval for your engine and your duty cycle, with the oil you plan to use, I recommend used oil analysis as a tool.



Oil may also be contaminated in the crankcase. Fuel, coolant, and dirt are all contaminants that compromise lubrication. The longer you leave oil in the crankcase, the more risk of exposure to these contaminants. This is another reason used oil analysis helps.



Here’s a way to determine optimum drain. Switch to the oil you plan to use, and operate for two oil changes at the interval you’ve been using. Sample drain oils and have analyzed. If for both samples viscosity stays in grade, TBN remains several numbers above three, contaminants aren’t present, and wear metals are acceptable, then extend drain interval by 25 percent. You may keep increasing drain until one of the indicators shows distress, but the longer you go the more risk you incur. Keep sampling and analyzing drain oils, because normal engine wear and tear will cause increasing stress for your oil.



I hope this discussion helps.





Regards,



Peter"


I was thinking of doing the two short oil change but it was a cold winter and I was lazy :slap:
 
Way too complicated for me. :rolleyes:


Oil and filter every 3000 miles, no worries :flipoff2:
 
Even that's too tough for my pee-brain. :P

About three times a year (early spring, summer, late fall or so), sometimes only two (oops!), I buy the cheapest oil (like generic, recycled oil), cheapest filter, and do all my (currently four) vehicles in one evening. Regardless of mileage. I own my vehicles about 5-7 years, my wife about 3 years (er, that is my wife owns her vehicles about 3 years ;) ), and so far no issues I can trace to, or even suspect may be from, my oil change procedure.

To each their own, eh? I invest the time and money I save into my OTHER paranoid schitzophrenic phobias... :)

Kenton

[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=17372;start=msg167960#msg167960 date=1086207427]
Way too complicated for me. :rolleyes:


Oil and filter every 3000 miles, no worries :flipoff2:
[/quote]
 
[quote author=kenton link=board=2;threadid=17372;start=msg168198#msg168198 date=1086234459]
Even that's too tough for my pee-brain. :P

About three times a year (early spring, summer, late fall or so), sometimes only two (oops!), I buy the cheapest oil (like generic, recycled oil), cheapest filter, and do all my (currently four) vehicles in one evening. Regardless of mileage. I own my vehicles about 5-7 years, my wife about 3 years (er, that is my wife owns her vehicles about 3 years ;) ), and so far no issues I can trace to, or even suspect may be from, my oil change procedure.

To each their own, eh? I invest the time and money I save into my OTHER paranoid schitzophrenic phobias... :)

Kenton
[/quote]

I hope you are at least using an SL rated oil, not some SA non-detergent crap. For an extra 20 cents you can pick up Chevron Supreme Oil (often on sale for 69 cents a quart, or in 6 gallon packs from costco) which is a wondeful mineral oil.

As long as you use mineral oil from a major manufacture and don't push it much beyond 5000 miles, you should have no long term affect on the vehicle (assuming it is not a turbo or other highly stressed motor).

Cary
 
Ah hah, yes excellent point-- I do look for the cheapest stuff, but require that it show the SH/SJ label (are they down to SL? Haven't bought oil in awhile). I've been told that there are only a few oil refiners, and any generic-branded oil your likely to find (Kmart, Sams, Autozone, etc) will be made by one of them. Anyone know otherwise?

I also made a crack about recycled oil: a few years back recycled oil was popular, I know I ran a few quarts through my engines, at the time it was amazingly cheap (or maybe I got it on clearance because it was phasing out?). It seems to have disappeared(?), was it found technically inferior, or just no-one was willing to put used stuff in their precious rigs? :) I always figured, recycled/used just meant the lubricating molecules were sheared (shorter) and lubricate better, and the additive package was new, so what the heck...

BTW, apparently the PO changed the oil even less frequently than I do, because a sludge exists on the oil fill cap and the dipstick, which I seem to be (slowly) dissolving. Worrisome, yes. Any common wisdom on the 1FZ-(3FE-)specific maladies that accompany neglect of oil changes?

Kenton

[quote author=cary link=board=2;threadid=17372;start=msg168366#msg168366 date=1086273276]
I hope you are at least using an SL rated oil, not some SA non-detergent crap. For an extra 20 cents you can pick up Chevron Supreme Oil (often on sale for 69 cents a quart, or in 6 gallon packs from costco) which is a wondeful mineral oil.

As long as you use mineral oil from a major manufacture and don't push it much beyond 5000 miles, you should have no long term affect on the vehicle (assuming it is not a turbo or other highly stressed motor).

Cary
[/quote]
 
[quote author=kenton link=board=2;threadid=17372;start=msg168521#msg168521 date=1086285558]
Ah hah, yes excellent point-- I do look for the cheapest stuff, but require that it show the SH/SJ label (are they down to SL? Haven't bought oil in awhile). I've been told that there are only a few oil refiners, and any generic-branded oil your likely to find (Kmart, Sams, Autozone, etc) will be made by one of them. Anyone know otherwise?

I also made a crack about recycled oil: a few years back recycled oil was popular, I know I ran a few quarts through my engines, at the time it was amazingly cheap (or maybe I got it on clearance because it was phasing out?). It seems to have disappeared(?), was it found technically inferior, or just no-one was willing to put used stuff in their precious rigs? :) I always figured, recycled/used just meant the lubricating molecules were sheared (shorter) and lubricate better, and the additive package was new, so what the heck...

Kenton
[/quote]

There are only a few oil refiners, but that has nothing to do with the quality of the oil. Base oils plus the additive package are what makes a quality oil. Cheap no-name oils will use poor Group I base stocks that require a great number of VI improvers, pour point depressants and other additives to meet minimal specs. The VI improvers and pour point depressants break down rapidely and will leave deposits and not lube well. Compare a good mineral oil (Chevron, Pennzoil, Quaker State) which use Group II or Group II+ base stocks that require much fewer VI improvers and also likely have a bit of Group V ester basestocks mixed in for solvency.

The closest analogy I can make is that saying that comparing no name oils to brand names is like saying a Mercedes and a Chrysler are the same thing because Dalmier Benz owns both. I would strongly recommend you stick with large brand name oils, it is fine to switch and use whatever is on sale. Personally, I would suggest you buy the Chevron oil from Costco.

Recycled oil didn't work because it costs more to re-refine it than new oil. The oil gets used for other things.

Cary
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom