Did you purchase you filter from a Toyota or Lexus dealer? The same issue with my 08 Sequoia from a quick change place that used a offbrand filter, then i changed it with a filter "Toyota" filter off Amazon and it had the rattle on cold start up. I purchased one from my local toyota dealer (for a cheaper price than the Amazon one) and I have never had an issue. Most of the filters and parts on the internet are knock off or ones that were not good enough to pass QC but still come in a Toyota box.
Oil change then cold start rattle 3 days in a row. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bloc
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
It was redline. Which I personally really like, but in this case, it wasn’t working for that motor.
I recommend any API certified SN or higher oil.
I “generally” run in my personnal vehicles either Valvoline Synthetic or Amsoil SS in motors.
I’m making my way through all the pages in this thread, but going to post up some vids in the meantime.
72k miles. 2015 LX
Jowett housing, trd filter.
mobile1 0-20w from costco
Drained the jowett, drained the pan, poured in .5 qt new oil to flush out the last of the oil from the pan, installed new trd filter, installed ezdrain in the pan, filled with 7.5 qts. I’m sitting right between the dots on the dipstick, but will check again.
drove 20 miles after the change and noticed a new slippidy slappy sound in idle:
72k miles. 2015 LX
Jowett housing, trd filter.
mobile1 0-20w from costco
Drained the jowett, drained the pan, poured in .5 qt new oil to flush out the last of the oil from the pan, installed new trd filter, installed ezdrain in the pan, filled with 7.5 qts. I’m sitting right between the dots on the dipstick, but will check again.
drove 20 miles after the change and noticed a new slippidy slappy sound in idle:
I am experiencing this for the first time after an oil last week with 5-20 Mobile 1 synthetic (what I have been using for 100k miles) and a Toyota dealer filter. I was at the dealer and just grabbed a filter, but usually just use whatever comes with the "buy 5 quarts and get a filter free" deal. I may try swapping out the Toyota filter for an aftermarket one since I have never had this problem before and I have extras sitting on the shelf from buying so much oil. This is very strange. I originally thought it was the starter or a pulley because it only lasts about 3 seconds, but this thread has be second guessing that now. It sounds terrible enough that my wife noticed it the other night when she was standing on the porch.
bloc
SILVER Star
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- #86
How many miles on the rig?
I haven't had it happen since it was sorted out in this thread, and that has been 25k miles. I did eventually switch to 5w-30 with no real brand favorite, except that I can find Pennzoil Platinum the cheapest by a good bit so that's what I've ended up using every 5k. As @Taco2Cruiser mentioned sometimes simply switching oil brands can seem to cause or fix this.. So far it's working so I'll probably stick with that.
235k. It just seems odd that I have never had this issue until this week right after an oil change. More obvious after a night of sitting, but still slightly there after sitting for a few hours.
bloc
SILVER Star
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- #88
Originally I got the exact same thing.. same oil, same filter, same interval.. Noise the second start after an oil change. Dumped that oil and replaced with the same, did it maybe once more.. then hasn't since.
I am convinced this is a design issue with the chain tensioners where depending on how the cams come to rest backward pressure can be applied and the tension on the chain compresses the tensioner, so slack is left on the other side until you go to start the vehicle. Then the tensioner needs oil pressure before it can pump up and effectively take up the slack to prevent slapping. There is a small ratchet assembly on the tensioner that should prevent this but I've seen pictures of the pawls flattened out.
The crank/cams not always coming to rest in the same spot means the valve springs could be pushing them clockwise or counter clockwise, to explain why some cold starts do it and some don't.
In reality I think the tensioners are a bit more complex, with some kind of check valve in there to control oil flow out of the assembly, and I think for some reason different oils or maybe deposits in this area are keeping the little ball and spring from working correctly. This is the only reason I can come up with that oil would impact the operation.
OR.. a start up with no oil in the system (like after an oil change) does something to the tensioner so subsequent shut downs compress the tensioner.. but it eventually sorts itself out for some reason I don't understand.
If it keeps up I'd consider dumping the oil and switching to a thicker formula. With your mileage and gulf coast ambient temps that may not be a bad idea anyway.
I was thinking of upping the oil to something a bit thicker, but without any previous issues I figured I would just keep rolling with what was working. What do you have in mind weight wise? The 5-20 was always convenient because I run the same things in my wifes Lexus IS, but I am open to suggestions. Thanks again.
bloc
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- #91
A bunch of us are running synthetic 5-30 and it is working great. I believe teckis is running 0-30 for the improved cold flow, and likely working great as well. but my understanding is it is on the thinner end of the 30wt spectrum when warm and with it being as hot as it is here in central Texas I don’t mind starting with a 5wt cold to get the marginally thicker warm viscosity.
Realistically the 5-20 would probably treat you well, but even if there is no concrete evidence of improved wear, the 30wt seems to quiet down a bit of the (probably harmless) valve train noise.
Up to you to decide whether to dump the current oil to address the clatter or wait it out and see if it improves.. but I know with how bad it sounds I didn’t want to just hope it got better and happen 20+ times. I wasn’t waiting that long personally.
I'll change the filter tomorrow and see if we get any change. If not 30w will go in. I will report back with a sitrep.
I was reading a ton of these threads and thinking about switching oil. I have never put anything than what is on the cap in any vehicle I've owned.
Recently doing an oil change in another vehicle(ford 4.6). It called for 5w20. I only had 5w30 on hand. So I used it. And wouldn't you know it, that motor developed a rattle in the right bank almost immediately. Goes away in 3 seconds. Ran it a day/ did another oil change with the proper oil/ rattle just kept getting worse and worse.
And the kicker, not my vehicle. Luckily I have an understanding boss and the vehicle was scheduled to be taken out of service in the next few months anyway.
Long story long, I am a little nervous to switch oils in my 570. Just did timing chain on my FJ, so I'm not nervous about any repairs ever, but I'd rather not induce them.
Recently doing an oil change in another vehicle(ford 4.6). It called for 5w20. I only had 5w30 on hand. So I used it. And wouldn't you know it, that motor developed a rattle in the right bank almost immediately. Goes away in 3 seconds. Ran it a day/ did another oil change with the proper oil/ rattle just kept getting worse and worse.
And the kicker, not my vehicle. Luckily I have an understanding boss and the vehicle was scheduled to be taken out of service in the next few months anyway.
Long story long, I am a little nervous to switch oils in my 570. Just did timing chain on my FJ, so I'm not nervous about any repairs ever, but I'd rather not induce them.
5W30 is recommended in the 5.7 everywhere except USA…….
Since post #66 in this thread I've continued running the 5w30 and my rattle has gone away. Can't say for sure the seafoam did the trick because I did hear it once or twice after but I haven't heard the rattle over the last 25K. I'm now at 190K and have been using the Valvoline Full Syn High Mileage 5W30 with the factory toyota filter. Robot or human? - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-Full-Synthetic-High-Mileage-MaxLife-5W-30-Motor-Oil-5-QT/23636909
