Oil change then cold start rattle 3 days in a row. (1 Viewer)

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24hrs sitting and no rattle today. Safe to say the concern is over. As for why? Maybe the different viscosity (thicker) fresh oil did something different with the cam chain tensioners?

Or lifters? Are these solid bucket like toyotas were for so long?

Oh and level was spot on with the oil warmed up.
Glad you feel like it’s fixed just wondering you said with thicker new oil what viscosity oil did you end up using? What are your normal temperature where you live when you start it up in the morning?
 
Glad you feel like it’s fixed just wondering you said with thicker new oil what viscosity oil did you end up using? What are your normal temperature where you live when you start it up in the morning?

I've run 0w-20 since I got it including this change, but the used oil I dumped would probably have been sheared down (basically, worn) some so was likely thinner than virgin 0w-20. I'm just guessing on this. It is possible this synthetic has viscosity modifiers that offset the wear so that it doesn't get thinner.. maybe even getting thicker with use.. but oil getting thinner as it is used is generally a reasonable expectation.

Temps around 80F at start.
 
I picked up eight quarts of synthetic Toyota motor oil yesterday. 7 bottles are the new packing red and black labels. It states on the back it meets sn plus. One of the bottle was the old green label that meets sn. The green bottle was manufactured in 2018. The others in 2019. What was the color of your bottles that you used.
 
I picked up eight quarts of synthetic Toyota motor oil yesterday. 7 bottles are the new packing red and black labels. It states on the back it meets sn plus. One of the bottle was the old green label that meets sn. The green bottle was manufactured in 2018. The others in 2019. What was the color of your bottles that you used.

Old colors used for this change, though I’m now out of that and have two cases of the new stuff sitting on the shelf.

I wonder whether SN+ will impact ZDDP levels..

Edit: just looked up SN+ and it has same P limit as SN so ZDDP won’t be reduced for that reason at least.
 
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I think the RN6378 is the formulation. All of my bottles are the rn6378. Based on the above noted blog, the formulation is the same. Based on the voa posted on PETROLEUM QUALITY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA TEST PROGRAM

We could easily run the oil to 10,000 miles. But our ocd gets in the way....
 
My 200 has done the same thing to me once after sitting for 5 days without being driven. It concerned me and set off my alarms looking at the oil levels and worried about a clog in the filter. I never found anything I could blame it on and its neither sat that long since or has made the noise again. My 80 series acted similar if it sat up for more than a week it was a pissed SOG it would knock, smoke and idle high until it calmed down. What I started doing with the 80 anytime it sat for long periods I would dump some fresh oil in it before I started it and that helped a lot.
 
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@bloc , glad things things are back to normal. Still a bit curious it would do this.

Are you doing anything during the oil change procedurally different than normal?

Only that I have read over the years curious procedures like doing a oil dance while it drains for 2 days, starting the engine for 30 seconds while draining to evacuate all the oil, etc. Is this all OEM parts, no aftermarket filter cap?
 
My 200 has done the same thing to me once after sitting for 5 days without being driven. It concerned me and set of alarms looking at the oil levels and worried about a clog in the filter. I never found anything I could blame it on and its neither sat that long since or has made the noise again. My 80 series acted similar if it sat up for more than a week it was a pissed SOG it would knock, smoke and idle high until it calmed down. What I started doing with the 80 anytime it sat for long periods I would dump some fresh oil in it before I started it and that helped a lot.

My 80 would make noise much like this as well.. though no smoke or bad behavior. I actually used it as one small justification for the LS swap. It got better with an OE small-can filter vs the larger aftermarket parts. And now that I think about it my 200 might have done this once before on a cold night in the mountains.. but under normal use no.

@bloc , glad things things are back to normal. Still a bit curious it would do this.

Are you doing anything during the oil change procedurally different than normal?

Only that I have read over the years curious procedures like doing a oil dance while it drains for 2 days, starting the engine for 30 seconds while draining to evacuate all the oil, etc. Is this all OEM parts, no aftermarket filter cap?

Nothing out of the ordinary. Use toyota tool to drain filter housing, remove cap & filter, wipe down cap and housing, change orings, new TRD filter, reinstall hand tight. Drain pan, let sit for maybe 10 minutes to get last drips, new drain gasket, torque main drain/filter cap/filter drain to spec, brake cleaner to remove spilled/dripped oil, add 8qts (looking down to see if it’s dumping everywhere after the first one), start. Reinstall skids.

It did the usual very slightly different mechanical sound for a few seconds as it filled the filter housing then watched the oil pressure and sound go to normal for cold idle.

The only problem popped up the next morning.

OEM toyota sienna (I think) aluminum filter cover with the 3UR support tube moved into it.
 
You're well versed in these things and I don't believe it was anything procedural you did. The fact that it did it 2 more times after the initial drive which should have more than primed the oiling system is what is weird. And only 24hrs after?

If you haven't already, it's probably worth another oil change. Just to check for foreign objects, filter/cover fittup is all correct, and some seal or filter is not seated ajar. I'm not familiar with the Sienna cap mod specifically (as I don't feel the need to improve anything there), but I'm sure there's enough people that have done that mod to rule out any compatibility issue.

What does your oil pressure gauge show at start and after warming up? The gauges are pretty coarse but perhaps something to watch?
 
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[QUOTE="bloc, post: 12469706, member: OEM toyota sienna (I think) aluminum filter cover with the 3UR support tube moved into it.
[/QUOTE]

I think you found your problem.
 
Teckis.. I agree. It’s weird. To do all this the first few times it sits for any length of time.. then to just stop. I don’t think it’s worth dumping the oil but I may pull the filter to make sure both orings on its ends and everything are where they need to be.

I think you found your problem.

Why? This is a very common mod.
 
Great.

24hrs from Sunday to Monday, no rattle. Same thing Monday to Tuesday.

And it just sat for 5hrs and rattled when I started it... though it is 97 degrees outside.

I’ll pull the filter tomorrow and have a look.
 
Any updates? Curious.

I got to thinking about it and realized this is happening before the engine is supposed to even have oil pressure.. it happens immediately, not a few seconds or even a second after start. So I didn't think it was anything with the filter or oiling system impeding flow and pressure build-up, but I pulled it just to have a look.

Filter was fine, orings where they were supposed to be, but I put a new OEM standard filter in just in case. Did the oil change too, using the SN+ stuff I had.

And it still occasionally rattles, though it seems a bit less than before.

At this point I'm suspecting cam chain tensioner(s). @mreedbmwm3 had to do theirs and symptoms sound exactly like mine, plus I'm seeing quite a few reports of Tundra 5.7s with the issue. Not sure why an oil change would trigger this.. As mentioned it had done it once or twice after cold nights in the mountains before.

For now it's infrequent enough I don't think it's doing much harm, but I'll likely do a UOA after a few thousand miles to confirm. Also I'm considering new tensioners, guides and chains in the fall when things cool down. I do have an oil leak on the side/front of the engine apparently at the timing cover, and it's been in the back of my mind to pull the cover to fix that anyway. I hate oil leaks.
 
Colorado trip including a couple cold nights and a bunch of driving around town.. and it hasn’t rattled since before my last post.

If it happens again after the next oil change I’ll assume it has something to do with fresh oil
 
I don't know, but may be it is related to chain tensioner. Toyota even had special document described such incident. That tensioner was modified. See attach, this is related to late Lexus URs engines, but may be something similar possible to find for LC200
 

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I don't know, but may be it is related to chain tensioner. Toyota even had special document described such incident. That tensioner was modified. See attach, this is related to late Lexus URs engines, but may be something similar possible to find for LC200

Thanks for the document. For the record it hasn’t made a peep since that post July 24th. I might still do chains, guides and tensioners and seal up that oil leak at the timing cover this fall..
 
Thanks for the document. For the record it hasn’t made a peep since that post July 24th. I might still do chains, guides and tensioners and seal up that oil leak at the timing cover this fall..
In my case I have rare appearing of this sound. It could be once per month, or few weeks. Thinking to replace tensioner a bit later.
 

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