mine is doing this also. may be more of a filter issue vs, the oil... I always have used Toyota filters in all our vehicles because of the anti drain back valve... but with the 5.7 not having the valve not sure what can be done...
Oil change then cold start rattle 3 days in a row.
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bloc
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Pretty sure the problem is ultimately the chain tensioners, which is why toyota felt the need to update the parts. Not sure why certain conditions trigger the noise.. possibly a certain viscosity doesn’t trigger the check valves that keep them from compressing with tension.
Mine is still holding with no noise. A bit over 5k on the oil now. I’m going to go to 10k on this change and possibly do a UOA.
I had some clatter last week on first startup in the morning a day or two it never did it the rest of the day though so I didn't think anything of it. I washed it this past weekend and checked all the fluids and found the oil 3/4 of qt low which likely was the culprit I have 6K on this oil change was planning to change it at 7. No change on the oil gauge level on the cluster when it was low. I don't have any visual oil leaks anywhere that I can see and none in the driveway so I must be burning it over a 5K interval I'll have to be mindful of that going forward. My PCV valve is new and hoses were free of any build up so I can check that off my list.
I’m located in Florida I get into my 2015 LX it was almost 100° push the start button and I hear this kind of moan for a second now I guess I would Moan, has anybody else run into that I don’t have any oil problems or rattling but I just thought the Moan sound was kind of weird, could be th seat moving my 250lb ass into the drivers position
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i'm in florida also. running such a thin oil in 107 degrees with 100% humidity makes me nervous...
bloc
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Do a UOA if you are concerned. Only way that I know of for actual data on how your oil is protecting the engine. If those numbers come back good there is no reason to run a thicker oil that will slightly reduce power and mileage.
Or you can see what tundras are doing with the same oil in the same engine.
How many miles are on your truck?
My used oil analysis numbers are perfect the Moan might be coming from the driver seat when it’s trying to move my 250 pound ass in the selected position at start up 
bloc
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Closing in on 150k.
No rattle since the initial week or so on the 140k oil change. Safe to say I'm less nervous now. Still planning UOA at 150 just to see how things look. If you saw my post about some dust getting around the air filter I suspect silicon numbers higher than ideal.
I did my 150K oil change yesterday at 7K interval. I did burn 3/4 of a quart over this interval I was used to that in my 80 didn't expect that in the 200 but will keep an eye on it. I have no leaks that I can find.
Been experiencing this issue on my 11 with 228,000 miles. Getting the following replaced.
It sounds like this:
It sounds like this:
Is the noise coming from the actual engine (like a lifter rattle) or possibly from the oil filter? Hard to believe, but oil filters themselves, if defective, can make a rattling noise. Change the oil and replace the filter.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
So...
I’ve been changing just my filter a lot over the last 5,000 miles. (Valvoline Blue Restore, google it). A thousand miles ago, during cold starts, I started to consistently get the terrible 2-3 second rattle of cams just beating the crap out of the valves.
After I though about it too much, and opened the top of my 5.7 up (what is that like, 7 times for me now?) I couldn’t find anything.
Then I though about spin on filters, and anti-drain back features. Is the cartridge filter housing capable of anti-drain back? I don’t know, but figured I’d take it apart. The best I can tell is, I have no idea.
I got another OEM filter cap. Functionality felt the same between the old and new. Figured I might as well put the new one in.
Annddd...back to normal. No cold start rattle.
I still don’t understand how. It wasn’t the filter, I switched between an OEM, Amsoil, TRD and they all started doing it recently. Put two of those same filters in the new housing, stopped doing it.
I’ve been changing just my filter a lot over the last 5,000 miles. (Valvoline Blue Restore, google it). A thousand miles ago, during cold starts, I started to consistently get the terrible 2-3 second rattle of cams just beating the crap out of the valves.
After I though about it too much, and opened the top of my 5.7 up (what is that like, 7 times for me now?) I couldn’t find anything.
Then I though about spin on filters, and anti-drain back features. Is the cartridge filter housing capable of anti-drain back? I don’t know, but figured I’d take it apart. The best I can tell is, I have no idea.
I got another OEM filter cap. Functionality felt the same between the old and new. Figured I might as well put the new one in.
Annddd...back to normal. No cold start rattle.
I still don’t understand how. It wasn’t the filter, I switched between an OEM, Amsoil, TRD and they all started doing it recently. Put two of those same filters in the new housing, stopped doing it.
In my case helped replacement of chains with tensioners. Same I heard about 1UR engines, based on 3UR. At least in my area.
32cls6speedmt
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Waiting on UOA to come back to know more. But my motor had the normal brown varnish all up in the top end and in the timing chain cover. After 3,000 miles of VBR it’s shinier then parts fresh off an assembly line. But it’s the rings that I’d love to actually see, however with buying my first house and this little shop that I run now, got no time to do much for myself.
Just heard from the mechanic that it is the upper and lower tensioners so they are going to have to remove the timing cover (and reseal) which adds a lot of labor. Also the coolant Valley Plate is leaking.
I had a tensioner issue with my 08 as well. I think the 4.7 is the best engine from a maintenance stand point. The 5.7 is more expensive to work on in the long run, but the power is really nice.
Any of you guys nearing the 200,000 mile area start saving. This is in the $5,0000 area of cost.
I had a tensioner issue with my 08 as well. I think the 4.7 is the best engine from a maintenance stand point. The 5.7 is more expensive to work on in the long run, but the power is really nice.
Any of you guys nearing the 200,000 mile area start saving. This is in the $5,0000 area of cost.
It's been happening through several oil changes, getting worse with time.
I'm always worried about stuff that 'cleans' from attacking seals and gaskets. With the 3UR prone to cam tower leaks this would worry me. Thoughts?
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Well, if something “cleans” and causes a leak, the seal was already a failed seal. Slug formed a barrier over the seal and didn’t allow that seal to be properly conditioned to prevent it from hardening. So I guess it comes down to if you want your motor work perfect or if you want to live in ignorant bliss. (Not saying you do, but that’s the truth of the matter for all of us)
Now when it comes to “cleaners” the only thing that cleans as in dissolves carbon is solvents. Detergents don’t clean a motor, it’s solvents. But anything that passes API SN must stay in within the allowable ranges of seal swelling. The stuff I’m running passes SN which means that it won’t hurt seals in our motor. But if it cleans away sludge, then it cleans away sludge. I’m okay with that, because then I can identify it, and fix it before I have a sticking valve.
The plus I have is that I can fix anything in a motor. Engine work is my true passion and I also find it very relaxing.
That said, I did my timing chain cover and cam towers to fix those leaks. When I was in there, of course I’m going to check chain length and tensioners. I found they were very close to factory length with 99k on them so I left them in.
Now hold on to your steak and cheese mate and let’s down Taco’s rabbit hole and explore the worse subject to discuss... oil. Due to all these small displacement, forced induction motors these days (ecoboosts... yuk) Low Speed Pre Ignition is a thing and fuel dilution is back with a vengeance. Through a bunch of research on the phenomenon, the idea that too much calcium in oil caused LSPI, and API SN+ was created (really it was DEXOS gen 2, but whatever lets keep going). Fun fact, less calcium, according to GM, “may” lead to timing chain wear (gassspp).
Now my motor was feed a diet of Toyota 5w-20 conventional that was SN rated and I got no timing chain issues to hold me down.
Does anyone have these tensioner issues that knows they were using an SN+ oil? Who knows, and honestly, I’d be shocked if it could be identified. But we are now about to move from GF-5 to GF-6 oils, and GF-6 now has a timing chain wear test incorporated. I’m kinda not thinking it was a coincidence that the need for this test to be incorporated just for fun.
Rob’s final thought. Someone mentioned it’s a $5,000 job for a new timing chain. Sounds about right. I would never do that. You could buy a used Tundra 5.7 with 30-40k miles and have it swapped for no more than $6k. Why put that money into something that has a quarter million mills on the rings, walls, valves, seals, I mean just freaking everything. Crazy!
I will pop a new tensioner in if that ever is needed. But I don’t have to pay labor, so it will be about $600 in parts.
if anyone does decide to have the work done, I would love it if you could keep the chain, and measure it.
