Oil change - Deisel or regular

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After 10 months I finally got my Land Cruiser Prado back, it had the 2L TE engine rebuilt and after the rebuild it was blowing grey/black smoke. After 4 different shops I found someone who fixed it but he won't say what was wrong.

Now I have to look at regular oil change. I am getting conflicting information on oil, one person says to use Deisel grade while others tell me regular oil is OK. What type of Oil should I use and what grade? As a mail driver I change oil every 2 to 3 weeks and it can become expensive. I live in New Brunswick, Canada on the east coast.
 
you must use oil that is made for diesel engines. "C" grade. The best possible. nothing else.

15W40 should be correct, in my opinion. Other can have different opinion about the weight.

PS : It's never cheap to own a Landcruiser. give him what he deserves ;)
 
I am sorry but you should be going alot further than two to three weeks between oil changes in a diesel, even at heavy usage you can go 3 months. I go 6 months in my f250 7.3 liter, I have worked for some companies that went 20,000 kms between oil changes, you should do a google search on extended oil change intervals.

Just use good oil and filters I use napa gold filter and napa diesel oil, I have also used shell rotella when it was on sale .
 
Please don't use a 15/40 in the winter:) Make sure you use synthetic if you do!

Louis
 
Please don't use a 15/40 in the winter:) Make sure you use synthetic if you do!

Louis

synthetic oil in a freshly rebuilt engine .... not a very good idea ...

It takes several thousand KM before using synthetic oil ... otherwise the engine will consume oil.
 
Please don't use a 15/40 in the winter:) Make sure you use synthetic if you do!

Louis

I've no problem using dino oil in the winter. :D

Extending your oil drain interval without oil analysis to tell you when it is time is a bad idea. Oil is cheap - deisel engines, not so much. :meh:
 
Here is something interesting; I remember 10-30W stickers attached to my old prado, as in" factory" stickers. Not that I would ever use a 10-30w in a diesel.

Dont buy a brand because it is on sale. Stick with the same brand you choose cough;;;;; DELO 400
 
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Here is something interesting; I remember 10-30W stickers attached to my old prado, as in" factory" stickers. Not that I would ever use a 10-30w in a diesel.

Dont buy a brand because it is on sale. Stick with the same brand you choose cough;;;;; DELO 400

Newer engines are machined to much higher tolerances than older engines and the lighter weight oils are required to provide sufficient lubrication.

I would run the recommended weight in a diesel grade oil - any of the major manufacturers are good. We use Shell Rotella T.

With the 2LTE, being a dirty engine, I would stick with 5,000 km interval and use a non-synthetic.


~John
 
On my 12ht i chance oil every 10tkm and it seems ok, not eating any oil and oil isnt that black yet... so, i'd say 10tkm is good interval and has worked for alot of ppl...

for oil, i like to use 10w-40 rally formula in my engine...
 
ALWAYS a diesel grade and change per the manual.
 
cripps, you can use what ever oil you want but after 30 years of running diesel land cruisers this is my advice.
winter 0/30 Rottella T semi synthetic change every 5000 km
summer run 15/40 dino oil (any brand) and change every 5000 km.

in the real world it is the consitancy and the frequency of the oil change that will mean the most to your engine. this BS running extremely long interval oil changes is just asking for a s*** storm to happen.

that is my advice mister postman, take it or leave it.

you do a LOT of stop and go running so change the friggin oil or risk having the truck off the road for another 10 months.

oh, and change the filter every oil change.
 
synthetic oil in a freshly rebuilt engine .... not a very good idea ...

It takes several thousand KM before using synthetic oil ... otherwise the engine will consume oil.


Yes you are right, forgot about the rebuild.
 
I've no problem using dino oil in the winter. :D

Extending your oil drain interval without oil analysis to tell you when it is time is a bad idea. Oil is cheap - deisel engines, not so much. :meh:

15/40 dino in minus 30 - a little hard on starting and getting the oil pumped through - but you go ahead and keep doing it - chances are you will be just fine.
 
cripps, you can use what ever oil you want but after 30 years of running diesel land cruisers this is my advice.
winter 0/30 Rottella T semi synthetic change every 5000 km
summer run 15/40 dino oil (any brand) and change every 5000 km.

in the real world it is the consitancy and the frequency of the oil change that will mean the most to your engine. this BS running extremely long interval oil changes is just asking for a **** storm to happen.

that is my advice mister postman, take it or leave it.


you do a LOT of stop and go running so change the friggin oil or risk having the truck off the road for another 10 months.

oh, and change the filter every oil change.

I read somewhere that your not suppost to run anything under than 10w/30 in a turbo diesel. Am I wrong if so please correct me.
 
Delo 400 5-6000 km. 15/40. my truck runs about 5000 k then the oil starts getting a bit dark. Factory filter only. I let it drain overnight then chuck a bit of fresh oil in to drain out the crap at the bottom of the pan.

Same on the big diesels at work, except we go by hours there.
 
Take it from a diesel mechainc 5000klm between oil changes is perfect. It also allows you check over the car and fix things before they really cost you money. I run Castrol RX Super and I've never had a problem.
 
cripps, you can use what ever oil you want but after 30 years of running diesel land cruisers this is my advice.
winter 0/30 Rottella T semi synthetic change every 5000 km
summer run 15/40 dino oil (any brand) and change every 5000 km.

in the real world it is the consitancy and the frequency of the oil change that will mean the most to your engine. this BS running extremely long interval oil changes is just asking for a **** storm to happen.

that is my advice mister postman, take it or leave it.

you do a LOT of stop and go running so change the friggin oil or risk having the truck off the road for another 10 months.

oh, and change the filter every oil change.

That's good advise. I use 15-40 shell but most of my cold starts are from a mostly not heated garage. 15-40 was designed to be used in the cold months. Forget about extended oil change intervals in your engine unless you are getting oil analysis and using an extra aftermarket filter to clean the soot.

Also read up on how to prevent overheating your head.

Where in NB? I am an ex NBer.

Cheers from the Safari hoarder...
 
15/40 dino in minus 30 - a little hard on starting and getting the oil pumped through - but you go ahead and keep doing it - chances are you will be just fine.

I know I will be just fine. ;) I suspect extended -30 is pretty rare in NB as it is here on the wet coast. The only reason to go with a lighter viscosity oil is for very cold starts where you have exceeded the oil's pour point. Delo 15w40's is -31C. If you add a oil pan heater and use a coolant heater, you never reach that point. Once the oil and coolant is warm, 0W40 or 0W30 means nothing.
 
I use 15-40 shell but most of my cold starts are from a mostly not heated garage. 15-40 was designed to be used in the cold months.

Just checked Rotella's pour point. It is -36C. Castrol Tection's is -39C. Its start-up pressure is always much higher than Delo or Rotella when the temp is below 10C. Was told that this is because of the molecular structure of this oil. Maybe I should reconsider the Castro Tection for winter use?.

Delo is still the only dino oil with the JASO DH-1 rating on their product sheet.
 

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