Oh yes I did! Harrop/Eaton E-Locker thread (1 Viewer)

[Cruiserdrew]

What kind of bs is that that they won’t drill a hole in the correct spot? That’s crap designed to absolve them of responsibility. Get a different shop. I recommend sending it to Ken at gearinstalls.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr]

I'm surprised they preferred for you to drill the 29/64" hole. I suppose if you have a rear swaybar then it could interfere.....

Did this 9.5" diff a couple days ago for one of my customers.
You can see where the drilled hole has to go.
edit----You are welcome to send it to me also. Fedex ground rules.
Ken


Predrilling is a good idea. You may drill it AFTER the shop gives you back the set up 3rd.....just drill the hole so the filings fall out (pinion flange pointed up)and not into the 3rd.

View attachment 1742135

Thanks that helps! I will just drill it out after they do the install. I just wasn't sure if I was even going to be able to reach back there to push the wires through the hole. Good note about having the pinion flange pointing up. I pulled the third this evening and was greeted with a rusty surprise. After a lot of cleaning and power washing, it's clean but you can definitely tell that crap has locked up the pinion bearing. Definitely wouldn't want that happening after the full rebuild.

What kind of bs is that that they won’t drill a hole in the correct spot? That’s crap designed to absolve them of responsibility. Get a different shop. I recommend sending it to Ken at gearinstalls.

Yeah I figured they didn't want to be responsible for it since they are just doing it to a third member without seeing the axle. They aren't an off road shop and probably don't do a lot of e lockers. They did my previous diff set ups and they've been flawless over the past 60k miles...And for what they charge to install, shipping a diff out and back would be about the same.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Yeah I figured they didn't want to be responsible for it since they are just doing it to a third member without seeing the axle. They aren't an off road shop and probably don't do a lot of e lockers. They did my previous diff set ups and they've been flawless over the past 60k miles...And for what they charge to install, shipping a diff out and back would be about the same.

So if it's the same, Ken will do a better job because he cares. Your call, but I've sent 4 to ken and have been 4X 100% satisfied. He'll drill the hole and install the grommet, no extra charge.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr]

So if it's the same, Ken will do a better job because he cares. Your call, but I've sent 4 to ken and have been 4X 100% satisfied. He'll drill the hole and install the grommet, no extra charge.

Yeah I'm sure his work is some of the best, but I meant quite literally just shipping a diff out and back being the same. Not including the labor. I'm already in over $3k on this new axle and locker install so I'm not trying to spend anymore than I have to at this point. Still need to be able to take it out on a big trip to mountains this summer.

 

[80t0ylc]

I'm surprised they preferred for you to drill the 29/64" hole. I suppose if you have a rear swaybar then it could interfere.....

Did this 9.5" diff a couple days ago for one of my customers.
You can see where the drilled hole has to go.
edit----You are welcome to send it to me also. Fedex ground rules.
Ken


Predrilling is a good idea. You may drill it AFTER the shop gives you back the set up 3rd.....just drill the hole so the filings fall out (pinion flange pointed up)and not into the 3rd..........

I love the location - about as far out of harms way as you can get. A well engineered product! Good job, Ken. Looks like your usual top quality install. I also like the waterproof connectors. @SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr - be sure to grab all the rest of your goodies that are shipped with the elockers - harnesses, switch, book & etc.... Ken was great about keeping that stuff together and including it when he's done!

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr]

Drilling the hole took less time than getting that grommet through there. That thing was a tight fit at 29/64s. Prepping for paint tomorrow and should have it all installed sometime this week. Can't wait to play with the Harrop and see how it compares to the OEM lockers

In case anyone is in the same boat as myself (1992 FJ80) and you don't have any OEM wiring/dash indicators in place, but want to use the OEM dial, here is a wiring diagram I drew up to operate a rear locker only. Ignore the wires leading to LED if you don't want an indicator light.

In the diagram, I used a wiring plug with snipped wires from a 97 LX450 to plug into the magic dial. The pin out from left to right is:
Pin 1: blank
Pin 2: blue
Pin 3: blank
Pin 4: green
Pin 5: red

I'm also working on new inserts for the curved portion of my dash since I don't care to hack up my gauge cluster. I am hoping to have a graphics company produce some OEM type switch labels for these and place a single red LED in the back to indicate that the locker has been turned on/activated.

 

[gearinstalls.com]

Drilling the hole took less time than getting that grommet through there. That thing was a tight fit at 29/64s. Prepping for paint tomorrow and should have it all installed sometime this week. Can't wait to play with the Harrop and see how it compares to the OEM lockers

View attachment 1745317

You're going to love the Harrop.....engages so quietly. The rubber grommet is much easier to push thru the 29/64" hole IF silicon RTV is on the rubber grommet

Ken

Looking at the pic closer....looks like a full floater 80 series axle going under that FJ40?
Like the schematic.

 

[80t0ylc]

Here's a couple pics of my switches in the "curved portion". Hope they help!

Edit: Noticed you're going to use an OEM rotary switch...oh, well. Good luck with the fit. I had to do some cutting to get the narrower Harrop included switches to fit. Also modded the curved blank panels to fill in the rest of the position.

 

[SKULLYOTA]

Just got mine in the mail today...looks like mine has a new kind of switch compared to everyone else's?

Maybe so it doesn't accidentally get pressed, you gotta push up on the little bottom doodle to flick it. Lights up in blue too.


it'll be the odd man out in my Carling switch bank.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Sure does look like an update. All 4 of mine came with carling switches like an airlocker.

Could you take full harness pictures?

 

[SKULLYOTA]

@Cruiserdrew I can do that. I posted a wiring question in the 70 series forum, could you take a look? If you've done 4 of these, then you can tell me what i'm looking at with the other "new" kit components

Harrop Wiring Help

 

[SKULLYOTA]

 

[SKULLYOTA]

One more

 

[chengitis]

I recently installed front and rear harrops on my 4th gen 4runner. With the vehicle on all 4 jack stands I wanted to check if both lockers work. The rear worked perfectly with both wheels turning in the same direction but for the front the wheels turn opposite of each other. When I unlock the front the opposite does not turn. Is this normal?

 

[ewillis]

I recently installed front and rear harrops on my 4th gen 4runner. With the vehicle on all 4 jack stands I wanted to check if both lockers work. The rear worked perfectly with both wheels turning in the same direction but for the front the wheels turn opposite of each other. When I unlock the front the opposite does not turn. Is this normal?

Your front wheels turn in the opposite direction..like one moves forward and one moves in reverse??

 

[chengitis]

Your front wheels turn in the opposite direction..like one moves forward and one moves in reverse??

Yes! When I engaged the front one wheel moves forward and opposite wheel moves reverse. When I disengaged the locker I am able to manually rotate one wheel and the opposite wheel does not turn at all. Also I forgot to mention I did this experiment in neutral. Both rear wheels turn in the same direction when locker engaged. Did this in neutral as well.

 

[orangefj45]

The Harrop lockers may not engage with the wheels off the ground. We’ve seen this in the past. It’s nothing to worry about.
But once you turn the ring gear it will engage.

 

[chengitis]

The Harrop lockers may not engage with the wheels off the ground. We’ve seen this in the past. It’s nothing to worry about.
But once you turn the ring gear it will engage.

so the best way to test the fronts is on a dirt road? What I didn’t understand is when I disengaged the front I manually rotated one wheel and the opposite wheel did not turn. Engaged and both wheels turn but in opposite directions.

Also do I need to go into 4lo to engage the lockers or is it ok to engage in 4hi?

 

[gearinstalls.com]

so the best way to test the fronts is on a dirt road? What I didn’t understand is when I disengaged the front I manually rotated one wheel and the opposite wheel did not turn. Engaged and both wheels turn but in opposite directions.

Also do I need to go into 4lo to engage the lockers or is it ok to engage in 4hi?

Just reach under there and turn the front driveshaft 1/2 turn....then the tires are locked and spin in the same direction.

 

[Retro LC]

Drilling the hole took less time than getting that grommet through there. That thing was a tight fit at 29/64s. Prepping for paint tomorrow and should have it all installed sometime this week. Can't wait to play with the Harrop and see how it compares to the OEM lockers View attachment 1745315

In case anyone is in the same boat as myself (1992 FJ80) and you don't have any OEM wiring/dash indicators in place, but want to use the OEM dial, here is a wiring diagram I drew up to operate a rear locker only. Ignore the wires leading to LED if you don't want an indicator light.

In the diagram, I used a wiring plug with snipped wires from a 97 LX450 to plug into the magic dial. The pin out from left to right is:
Pin 1: blank
Pin 2: blue
Pin 3: blank
Pin 4: green
Pin 5: red

View attachment 1745316

I'm also working on new inserts for the curved portion of my dash since I don't care to hack up my gauge cluster. I am hoping to have a graphics company produce some OEM type switch labels for these and place a single red LED in the back to indicate that the locker has been turned on/activated.

View attachment 1745317

Bumping this one.

@SummitCruisers Jr,

I also have a 3FE FJ80 (1991) and wanted to do exactly what you’re doing. Had a couple of questions:

- Did you switch from OEM lockers that were previously retrofitted to your rig? If so, why did you switch from OEM lockers to Harrop elockers?

- What was your concern about not wanting to hack up your gauge cluster to add the OEM front and rear diff lock indicator light strip at the bottom of the instrument cluster? I spoke with a mechanic and he seemed to indicate that it was “relatively” easy / minimally invasive to swap in the bottom strip OEM diff lock lights from a 93 or newer instrument cluster.

First time poster, long time reader. This is a great forum!