I made my own fluid heat riser. In the fog on a long grade it would ice up the carb before I did the heat riser.
Offenhauser intake manifold on the 2f engine, (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Landcruiserfj45
- Start date
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The 2F carb insulator reflects heat back to the intake manifold.
The '74+ air cleaner assemblies started using warm air, before the carb, with a Hot Air Intake system. It collected the air from the exhaust manifold and delivered it to the air cleaner assembly. This is already in addition to the heat control valve set-up between the intake and exhaust manifold.
The '74+ air cleaner assemblies started using warm air, before the carb, with a Hot Air Intake system. It collected the air from the exhaust manifold and delivered it to the air cleaner assembly. This is already in addition to the heat control valve set-up between the intake and exhaust manifold.
gonzopancho
SILVER Star
Most V8s (and V6s) circulate coolant through the manifold, primarily because it’s a convenient path from the heads, back to the (top) of the radiator. This also serves to bring the intake up to temp once the thermostat opens.
(Yes, I know about “reverse flow” in the Chevy LT1 and later..)
Older v8s often had “exhaust risers” through the intake to quickly heat the manifold (especially under the carb) to help keep the atomized fuel from dropping out in cool/cold weather.
In a fuel injected engine (and here I’m talking about real sequential fuel injection, with the injectors in the runners or even cylinders, not a “glorified carb” like the Sniper setups), it’s not a problem, because the fuel isn’t atomized before entering the cold intake plenum.
So if I ever do the 2F intake I mentioned above, you can be sure there will be designed in “bosses” which could be drilled and tapped for individual injectors. The problem then becomes one of timing. One really wants crank and cam position sensing at that point, so the injector can fire very close in time to when the intake port is open.
For the crank position sensor, it’s straight-forward to attach a 36-1 wheel to the front of the crank and mount a Hall-effect sensor nearby. My concern here is that the whole thing would stop working in the presence of water or mud, so I’d like to find a way to install all that inside the crankcase.
For the cam sensor, I figure I can retrofit something in place of the mechanical fuel pump. The camshaft has a handy lobe to run the pump and it should be possible to mount a Hall effect sensor in a fuel pump block off plate.
If that doesn’t work, then the distributor could be modified, with the ignition run from individual coils, but that’s even more complexity.
Fe3
Supporting Vendor
* - TriMeki header details here: TriMeki 2F/F Stainless Steel Header & Exhaust System - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/trimeki-2f-f-stainless-steel-header-exhaust-system.1337067/
I imagine it would be possible to incorporate a coolant loop under the floor of the intake to deal w/ cold weather driveability issues.
- Thread starter
- #66
But now I have a completely different problem.
And this is what it is.
So,after I sandblasted my cylinder head, it is now at the engine builder's.
Then I cleaned all the valves so that I could take them to the engine builder.
But after I completely cleaned the valves, it was a disaster.
Four of the six exhaust valves look very strange.
Look at the photos.
I definitely won't use the exhaust valves anymore.
Do any of you happen to have six good original exhaust valves left and would sell them to me and send them to Germany ?
Thank you very much in advance,
Jürgen
And this is what it is.
So,after I sandblasted my cylinder head, it is now at the engine builder's.
Then I cleaned all the valves so that I could take them to the engine builder.
But after I completely cleaned the valves, it was a disaster.
Four of the six exhaust valves look very strange.
Look at the photos.
I definitely won't use the exhaust valves anymore.
Do any of you happen to have six good original exhaust valves left and would sell them to me and send them to Germany ?
Thank you very much in advance,
Jürgen
- Thread starter
- #67
Here are the photos now, these are the six inlet valves.
They are OK, I would say...
They are OK, I would say...
- Thread starter
- #68
And number six...
- Thread starter
- #69
And here the exhaust valves, I would say, catastrophe...
- Thread starter
- #70
And number six...
- Thread starter
- #71
And here are a few nicer photos, my sandblasted cylinderhead...
- Thread starter
- #73
And a few more photos...
- Thread starter
- #74
And the last photo...
- Thread starter
- #75
Hello,
But now I'm curious.
Could you maybe tell me more about it ?
So, which valves are they exactly ?
Are they the valves from the 350 Chevy smallblock ?
If so,what year should the engine be from ?
Thanks in advance,
Jürgen
But now I'm curious.
Could you maybe tell me more about it ?
So, which valves are they exactly ?
Are they the valves from the 350 Chevy smallblock ?
If so,what year should the engine be from ?
Thanks in advance,
Jürgen
The intake valves look good.
I'd look into valve guides. How much do the valves wiggle in the guide? The harder-looking valve stems don't show wear, but, the guide is soft enough to be reamed, when new. With the 2F head on my bench, if I place an oiled valve stem in the guide, I can place my finger over the rocker-cover-side and pull the face of the valve to check for vacuum on my finger. This tells me that the guides themselves are worn, and there is generally less 'pull' on the exhaust valves. What this tells me is that exhaust or intake gasses can pass thru the valve guides, exchanging air with the valve cover. Basically, the valves need to seal on the valve seat, and, the open valve needs to be tight in the valve guide or it will leak there too.
With the head all clean, will you Magniflux, or use dye-penetrant on it, for cracks?
I'd look into valve guides. How much do the valves wiggle in the guide? The harder-looking valve stems don't show wear, but, the guide is soft enough to be reamed, when new. With the 2F head on my bench, if I place an oiled valve stem in the guide, I can place my finger over the rocker-cover-side and pull the face of the valve to check for vacuum on my finger. This tells me that the guides themselves are worn, and there is generally less 'pull' on the exhaust valves. What this tells me is that exhaust or intake gasses can pass thru the valve guides, exchanging air with the valve cover. Basically, the valves need to seal on the valve seat, and, the open valve needs to be tight in the valve guide or it will leak there too.
With the head all clean, will you Magniflux, or use dye-penetrant on it, for cracks?
gonzopancho
SILVER Star
Agree, but high quality stainless and pro-level TIG welding —> Made in USA will always cost more than imported things.Hi,
the TriMeki header on 2f would of course be very cool,but unfortunately it is quite expensive...
Fe3
Supporting Vendor
Agree x2. This is a product that will easily last for our lifetimes, and then be there for whoever inherits our Cruisers.
There is a lot to be said for uptime!
- Thread starter
- #79
Hi,
I didn't say it wasn't worth the price. But it's definitely not a special offer... but it's pretty cool...
Maybe you are really bad at math....
