OEM Starter Rebuild (6 Viewers)

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Feb 9, 2011
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Location
Hopewell, VA
I need to rebuild my starter because it has the grind sound when starting cold, and it has the whine once it starts as it doesn't release the starter gear quick enough. I have the new contacts , plunger, and a cover. What else should I replace to do a fairly comprehensive rebuild? Unfortunately I can't have the down time to remove the starter and see what's bad, then order everything. I need to order everything I need beforehand so I can do it all in a day. New bearings or re-grease? I'd love to hear from those who have done it how yours looked. Mine is from a '93 with 155K on it.

Here are the part numbers I have so far:

28226-76100 Contact Kit
28226-72010 Contact Kit (other side)
28235-35080 Plunger, Magnet
28199-46080 Cover (mine was torn and falling off)

 
Other parts I could possibly see needing to order:
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What does the Armature Assy do, and what does the Clutch Sub-Assy do?
 
Just take it out and put contacts in. If the plunger disc is worn, change that too. Put it back in and drive it.
 
Magnet switch cover gasket 28175‑54380.
O-ring 90099‑64040 if you plan on cleaning the armature.
 
When I rebuilt a 2.2kW starter a year ago some parts were not available, the door gasket was, the case O-ring was not, but you can measure the diameter and thickness of the original (and the groove it sits in) and order a replacement from any O-ring store. The armature bearings are likely still good, clean and regrease, I used Mobil PolyRex EM (electric motor bearing grease) for those. The armature bearing sizes are standard so if Toyota doesn't have the bearings (they are expensive) you can pick them up from any bearing store. The area that needs attention is the OSGR section; there is a steel idler gear with steel roller bearings that slide on the aluminum housing and over time they scuff and dig into the aluminum. Using a Moly and/or Graphite containing grease is required for those gears and the drive assembly gears and bearings IMO. I used a mixture of two compatible greases (PolyRex EM and Dow Corning Molykote G-4700). IME/IMO after ~20 years it's worth the effort take the starter completely apart, clean, inspect, and regrease.

Photos show what things looked like when first opened, bottom photo shows scuffing damage to the aluminum from the steel idler gear and it's roller bearings:
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Just make sure you get the right parts. There are three different starters for these trucks and each has different part numbers for the contacts and plunger at least, maybe the other parts as well.

Given yours is a 93 and from the diagram you posted, you may have a rare 2.2kW version. Whatever you do do not use that as a core for a auto parts store remaned one.
 
I do have the 2.2kw one. I took it out six months ago and ordered the contacts and plunger because I was having a starting issue. The parts took so long to arrive that I just filed down the existing plunger and contacts until they were clean brass again and re-assembled the whole thing long before the parts ever arrived. Previous issue turned out to be a battery problem, but that's why I already have the contacts and plunger from before. I plan to clean and re-grease everything that is serviceable, and replace everything that is not. I believe the magnet switch cover gasket for the 2.2kw starter is 28175‑10040, not the pn posted above unless I'm mistaken.
 
I just did mine too after my truck wouldn't start but I could hear the starter motor whirring. Called Beno, told him what was happening, and he sent me new contacts, a new plunger and some miscellaneous stuff like gaskets. Took the new parts and replaced the old with them. Now my truck starts. Wooohoooo!
 
I do have the 2.2kw one. I took it out six months ago and ordered the contacts and plunger because I was having a starting issue. The parts took so long to arrive that I just filed down the existing plunger and contacts until they were clean brass again and re-assembled the whole thing long before the parts ever arrived. Previous issue turned out to be a battery problem, but that's why I already have the contacts and plunger from before. I plan to clean and re-grease everything that is serviceable, and replace everything that is not. I believe the magnet switch cover gasket for the 2.2kw starter is 28175‑10040, not the pn posted above unless I'm mistaken.

I had the opposite thing happen to me. Truck wouldn't turn over so I bought a new battery thinking it was dead. Still nothing... So I then tackled the starter. Now at least I have a modern sealed battery instead the old one that had places to pour water into. Wooohooo!
 
I priced everything out and decided which parts to get, but I have another question. Thinking out loud, the grinding noise it makes when cold is likely from the gear attached to the clutch sub-assembly starting to spin before it shoots out and engages the flywheel, so that when it shoots out to grab the flywheel it grinds. The whirring noise it makes once the engine starts is likely from the same gear failing to disengage quickly enough from the flywheel. To me, it seems that where the gear moves back and forth on this clutch sub-assembly might be sticky or have some obstruction preventing it from shooting out and pulling back quickly, or whatever mechanism controls that might be worn out. So question is, does the clutch sub-assembly (28011-66030) itself control the up and down motion of the gear, or is it just the internal spring of the plunger that controls that up and down motion, and perhaps my existing spring is worn out? I just like to understand how stuff works.
 
The plunger gets pulled down by the coil in the magnetic switch, the thin shaft of the plunger then pushes on the end of a larger shaft in the center of the drive assembly which has the pinion attached to the other end, forcing it out to engage the flywheel. That drive assembly has springs internally; if they are broken the pinion may not retract as it should. But also if the plunger and contacts are worn the plunger may not make good contact and might chatter possibly causing the pinion to not be pushed out or held out properly. Do you have the starter out yet?

Here's a photo of a drive assembly from a 2.0kW starter partially disassembled (the 2.2kW drive assembly is similar).
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I don't have it out yet, still narrowing down my parts order, specifically whether to order the clutch sub-assembly or not. Once I have it out I can study it as well, just trying to educate myself beforehand and hopefully get all the parts I'll need. I'm questioning whether just contacts and a plunger will fix my issue because I previously filed both the contacts and the contact surface on the plunger down to clean brass, so they should be making good contact already.
 
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I pulled mine and rebuilt it today. The contacts and plunger showed signs of arcing again, even though I filed them clean six months ago. I didn't pay attention to making sure the contacts were square with the case/plunger last time though. I installed a new clutch assembly, gasket, o-ring, contact, plunger, plunger spring, and vent. Only one new contact :mad:. The second one they sent me wasn't usable, not sure if wrong part #, but it looked different and didn't sit right. It wasn't square either. I filed down my old contact again, made sure it was exactly square, and am just reusing it again. I'll install it tomorrow and see if it's fixed.

I think I'll switch suppliers in the future and start using cdan or others recommended here because mine takes a couple weeks to get things to me, then when they do come I'm missing stuff (other items were missing :mad:).
 
I pulled a pristine starter from a an FZJ80 at the junk yard and at the last minuet I decided to leave it with the truck.... now it has me wondering if I should go back and get it just to have as a spare.... what do you think? - I think they would charge me like 15 bucks for it..... the thing looked brand new
 
I think most of us would buy a used starter for that price even if it had more wear than described. Better rub some dirt on it before negotiating the price.
 
Top photo shows new contacts installed in a 2.2kW starter. Bottom photo is what they looked like a few months later showing obvious arcing. A 2.0kW plunger (too long) had been installed which caused clicking when hot, no cranking. Replaced the smaller contact, cleaned the other contact and installed the correct length plunger, no problems. The plungers are not interchangeable between the 2.0kW and 2.2kW starters.
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Just adding info since this is a main thread found while searching.
1.4 rebuild kit - Alternators, Alternator Parts, Starters, Starter Parts & Repair Kits - https://www.aspwholesale.com/starter-rebuild-kits/denso/off-set-gear-reduction-osgr-/rebuild-kit-p18304.html
2.0 rebuild kit - Alternators, Alternator Parts, Starters, Starter Parts & Repair Kits - https://www.aspwholesale.com/starter-rebuild-kits/denso/off-set-gear-reduction-osgr-/rebuild-kit-p18321.html
oddly, it lists the 2.2 and the 2.0 as having the same rebuild kit? I know some internal parts are different however.

Another good cross-reference thread on the rebuild. I've rebuilt my 2.0 and it's the same.
 
The parts are not all the same; I'd stick with the Toyota rebuild kits while they're still available.

Here's a link to one source for a 1FZFE 2.0kW starter (most common):


Link for the 1FZFE 2.2kW starter kit (came on the 93 models only):

 
[edited] Tackling a starter issue myself now. The dreaded click, but no engagement.
Trying to confirm Contact replacement part numbers for '91 FJ80 3FE.

Found this very helpful video...

 
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