On a banana level, what's the difficulty? One of my local dealership's wants $600 to accomplish this job, that $600 includes parts, labor, and the alignment. I've done an AHC removal and installed aftermarket suspension, torsion bars and various other spring swaps on my LX470. I've replaced the suspension, and also rebuilt the knuckles and birfields on my FZJ80. So I'm thinking about tackling this job in my driveway as a DIY. Then just heading to the dealership for the alignment. Is the job anymore difficult than any of the work I've done on my 80 & 100 series? I've seen OTRAMM's 200 series suspension video and I'm looking at using that as a reference, unless someone has another way they would be willing to share.
OEM spacer DIY difficulty?
- Thread starter jbyrd78
- Start date
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Sounds like you're more than capable to do the job. The only thing I've seen that may be a little different is turning and releasing the KDSS valve. Otherwise the rest should be the same. I haven't changed the suspension on my 200 yet but I've worked enough on my 4Runner and Tacoma and have done brake jobs, changed the suspension 4 or 5 times, steering rack and pinion, among other things. For some reason there's a lack of reference on suspension work when it comes to the 200 series. Almost as if people just take it to their local LC specialist to swap them out. Guess I'll cross that bridge when it's my turn.
bloc
SILVER Star
Agree with @Gazziza and @Tex68w you’ll be fine.
You’ll see one or two people mention not loosening the LCA pivot bolts.. they must weigh three times what I do. The lower bushings are VERY stiff and IMO it isn’t worth the effort. Plus to do it right you need to tighten those bolts at the new ride height anyway to avoid preload on the bushings.
Also after you get the alignment double check those LCA bolt torque values. Dealers and alignment shops are famous for “tight enough” by hand judgement calls. Their hand calibration doesn’t account for the high specified torque value of our vehicles and your alignment can walk out over time. I know this from experience on multiple vehicles.
You’ll see one or two people mention not loosening the LCA pivot bolts.. they must weigh three times what I do. The lower bushings are VERY stiff and IMO it isn’t worth the effort. Plus to do it right you need to tighten those bolts at the new ride height anyway to avoid preload on the bushings.
Also after you get the alignment double check those LCA bolt torque values. Dealers and alignment shops are famous for “tight enough” by hand judgement calls. Their hand calibration doesn’t account for the high specified torque value of our vehicles and your alignment can walk out over time. I know this from experience on multiple vehicles.
foolforthecity
SILVER Star
You will be able to do it easily. I did it a few weeks ago in 3 or 4 hours just cruising along taking my time. This video, which I found here, was very helpful. Watch the first few mins and then fast forward to the part where he tackles the front.
Also use the attached torque values. Putting everything back together and getting it torqued correctly is the most time consuming part of the process.
Also use the attached torque values. Putting everything back together and getting it torqued correctly is the most time consuming part of the process.
- Thread starter
- #6
I actually cracked the KDSS valves and hooked them up with anti-seize this past Friday, so I'm good to go on that end.
Couldn't have said it better, hence why I posted asking. I had found a few vague posts about the suspension, but it was hit or miss.
- Thread starter
- #7
Good to go on the valves. Hooked them up with a torch to break up the rust, then some anti-seize, so next time they won't be so hard to open.
- Thread starter
- #8
Not trying to sound stupid, but I don't understand. Do you mean it's not worth the effort to unbolt the lower bushings on the LCA?
- Thread starter
- #9
Yeah that's the video I watched, and thank's for the torque specs. Did you follow what he did front end wise, or did you deter a little bit? Did you losen the caster/camber bolts like he did as well?
foolforthecity
SILVER Star
I did everything he did. I keep reading on here about people using pry bars but at no point was I even close to needing one. Not sure why but I think maybe the loosening of the sway bar bracket might have been the difference.
bloc
SILVER Star
A few of the above torque values are incorrect for the LandCruiser, and one important one missing.
The following is from the 2013 LandCruiser factory service manual. Other years will be similar.
Lower shock bolt/nut: 133
LCA pivot bolt: 207
UCA pivot bolt: 136
Sway bar link to LCA bolt: 100
Driver side KDSS arm to sway bar link bolt/nut: 103
Passenger side sway bar to sway bar link nut: 94
The following was correct, but to clarify
TRE to knuckle: 51
Upper ball joint to knuckle: 81
Lower ball joint to ball joint bridge: 123
Ball joint bridge to knuckle (2 per side): 221
Upper strut nut (4 per side): 33
Both ABS retention nuts: 9.6
As mentioned, LCA and UCA pivot bolts need to be torqued with vehicle at ride height, not with suspension dropped out. Typically this is the hardest part of the job for me, even with ramps. I just have trouble fitting myself under there and getting 207ft-lb worth of leverage on the torque wrench. A 4-post lift would make this a very easy step.
Some people leave the LCA to frame bolt tight to preserve alignment. When you do this the bushing acts as a spring resisting the LCA being pushed down. This then requires a tremendous amount of force.
It is far easier to just loosen the bolts, let the arm swing down, install the strut. Swing it up, bolt everything together other than the upper and lower arm pivot bolts, set the truck at ride height, and torque those too.
The following is from the 2013 LandCruiser factory service manual. Other years will be similar.
Lower shock bolt/nut: 133
LCA pivot bolt: 207
UCA pivot bolt: 136
Sway bar link to LCA bolt: 100
Driver side KDSS arm to sway bar link bolt/nut: 103
Passenger side sway bar to sway bar link nut: 94
The following was correct, but to clarify
TRE to knuckle: 51
Upper ball joint to knuckle: 81
Lower ball joint to ball joint bridge: 123
Ball joint bridge to knuckle (2 per side): 221
Upper strut nut (4 per side): 33
Both ABS retention nuts: 9.6
As mentioned, LCA and UCA pivot bolts need to be torqued with vehicle at ride height, not with suspension dropped out. Typically this is the hardest part of the job for me, even with ramps. I just have trouble fitting myself under there and getting 207ft-lb worth of leverage on the torque wrench. A 4-post lift would make this a very easy step.
Not stupid. I did a poor job of explaining.
Some people leave the LCA to frame bolt tight to preserve alignment. When you do this the bushing acts as a spring resisting the LCA being pushed down. This then requires a tremendous amount of force.
It is far easier to just loosen the bolts, let the arm swing down, install the strut. Swing it up, bolt everything together other than the upper and lower arm pivot bolts, set the truck at ride height, and torque those too.
- Thread starter
- #12
PM'd you
- Thread starter
- #13
Thanks for explaining that all a little more in depth. Also thanks for sharing all the torque specs. I appreciate it!
