oem oz sub tanks

[loquito]

I am saving for this mod, It won't be real soon but I am starting to study now.
I have read Georges write up and it is great! Any other info easily accesable on the net?

Mainly I want to know what parts come with the tank and what parts you needed to track down yourself.

I saw on Gearges site that he has a electronic box he made up to replace the ECM for the tank, but did the kit come with a duel filler, how about the dash switch (can this be bought from a US Toyota parts person), how about the selenoid valve and the fuel transfer pump? Hanging straps?

I don't know what all the parts are that are needed, and which all come with the tank, So I want to know what did you guys on the board have to find for yourselfs.

Really any extra info from the folks who have done this so far would be real nice, So far every job I've approached has gone smooth with you guy's advice. Thanks for all the help.

Steven

 

[mot]

Steven,

I have not done the installation, but have bought the long range (not sure if it's Long Ranger) aux. tank from MAF.

I can not recall how much it cost although it was on sale at the time, but was quoted by Steve O something around $700 for parts and labor to install it (possibly with other parts which may or may not have come with the kit, that are needed to get it in working order).

I haven't decided if I want to tackle the installation myself or let the pro(s) do the job. But I would also like to get any (other) relevant parts/installation information to do the aux. tank available on the market today.

I guess we can wait and see if anybody with experience will chime in.

Mot

 

[loquito]

Steven,

I have not done the installation, but have bought the long range (not sure if it's Long Ranger) aux. tank from MAF.

I can not recall how much it cost although it was on sale at the time, but was quoted by Steve O something around $700 for parts and labor to install it (possibly with other parts which may or may not have come with the kit, that are needed to get it in working order).

I haven't decided if I want to tackle the installation myself or let the pro(s) do the job. But I would also like to get any (other) relevant parts/installation information to do the aux. tank available on the market today.

I guess we can wait and see if anybody with experience will chime in.

Mot

Ya I saw you had one waiting for you from Steve-O. 7 Hundred for parts and labor would be cool. Since I live so far away my labor price should pay for shipping
I guess we wait, I know a bunch of folks here have done this already, and C-Dan Is getting ready to put in his.
Does anybody have the link to the old for sale page from the Man-o - fre site. Now they only have links to other tanks, Or at least I was not able to find the page with OEM OZ tanks, though I have seen them following a link from here.

Hey Mot, On George's site he states he is selling the Electronic control module he fabbed up to take the place of the factory aux tank ECM. That is one part I am happy others have worked out before I came along.

Ya wanna give up the one waiting for you back here, Steve assured me more were on the way.
Steven

 

[mot]

Ya I saw you had one waiting for you from Steve-O. 7 Hundred for parts and labor would be cool. Since I live so far away my labor price should pay for shipping

Well, $700 was just for the installation and misc. parts on top (aside) of the tank I had alread paid for, to get it installed and be fully functional. Was that what you thought? I thought it was a little steep. But according to Steve O the installation process is pretty time consuming and takes almost a day to complete it. So about 1/2 the cost of getting my Safari turbo kit installed isn't awful, I guess. Besides, I don't think an idiot like myself could install the tank alone without blowing up the garage, so...

Does anybody have the link to the old for sale page from the Man-o - fre site. Now they only have links to other tanks, Or at least I was not able to find the page with OEM OZ tanks, though I have seen them following a link from here.

Is this what you were thinking of or did they have the OEM kit one as well, aside from this one?:

http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/fj80lx45034galauxfueltankkit.htm

They list(ed) it for $815 and I can't remember how much I had paid for mine which was on sale (I think it was six something, IIRC).

Hey Mot, On George's site he states he is selling the Electronic control module he fabbed up to take the place of the factory aux tank ECM. That is one part I am happy others have worked out before I came along.

That's nice!

Is there anyway that we can keep track of how much fuel (how close to empty) we are w/o keeping track of how far I've driven is left in the tank. Does the kit come with the necessary hardware to measure that (excluding the gauge, of course). I kinda doubt it.

How do you guys do it?
Start out with the aux. tank and wait till it starts sputtering and then switch it to OEM tank? Or is there any way to keep track like the OZ OEM tank and overhead gauge set-up (like that in neowulf's pic).

Ya wanna give up the one waiting for you back here, Steve assured me more were on the way.

Well, unless I give up the rest of the junk I have laying around in their shop I don't think I would be willing to let go of it. When I do finally get all of the garbage installed I'm afraid I would have to leave my truck at MAF for a couple of days or even more, especially if I decide to do OME, ARB and stuff while I was at it. I better check the Disneyland thread and see what (else) I can do with my family while my truck is getting worked on.

Mot

 

[loquito]

Well, $700 was just for the installation and misc. parts on top (aside) of the tank I had alread paid for, to get it installed and be fully functional. Was that what you thought? I thought it was a little steep. But according to Steve O the installation process is pretty time consuming and takes almost a day to complete it. So about 1/2 the cost of getting my Safari turbo kit installed isn't awful, I guess. Besides, I don't think an idiot like myself could install the tank alone without blowing up the garage, so... }

[Is this what you were thinking of or did they have the OEM kit one as well, aside from this one?:

http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/fj80lx45034galauxfueltankkit.htm

They list(ed) it for $815 and I can't remember how much I had paid for mine which was on sale (I think it was six something, IIRC).]

That's nice!

Is there anyway that we can keep track of how much fuel (how close to empty) we are w/o keeping track of how far I've driven is left in the tank. Does the kit come with the necessary hardware to measure that (excluding the gauge, of course). I kinda doubt it.

How do you guys do it?
Start out with the aux. tank and wait till it starts sputtering and then switch it to OEM tank? Or is there any way to keep track like the OZ OEM tank and overhead gauge set-up (like that in neowulf's pic).



Well, unless I give up the rest of the junk I have laying around in their shop I don't think I would be willing to let go of it. When I do finally get all of the garbage installed I'm afraid I would have to leave my truck at MAF for a couple of days or even more, especially if I decide to do OME, ARB and stuff while I was at it. I better check the Disneyland thread and see what (else) I can do with my family while my truck is getting worked on.

Mot

Well Mot
If you have a chance check out George's write up. It does seem labor intensive, along with the parts that are still needed I imagine it justifies the 700 in labor and parts.

Sorry that is the wrong link, they used to have a link to the OEM Oz tanks, the ones that hold about 13 gallons.


http://george4wd.taskled.com/auxtank.html

Mot this is the link to Georges site, perfect write up, he also explains the electronic box he made and what it does and does not do. Hell Mot If your out on a long drive you can just push the botton when your fuel guage reachs a quarter tank. At thirteen gallons the sub tank dumping into the main tank would bring the level back up to 3/4 of a tank or there abouts.

If I read Georges site right his electronics will shut of the pump when the sub tank is empty, And if the main tank is full and you don't shut off the pump or don't notice, the gas will return to the tank through the vent hose thus creating a closed loop.

Boy I hope I got that right

Steven

At the bottom of Georges write up he states he is going to add a switch to toggle back and forth between both tanks and have it show on his factory fuel guage. So I guess it is possible to monitor the sub tank

 

[mot]

Steven,

I have read George's write-up, but it's been a while, so I'll have to study it this time.

It would be sweet to be able to go back-and-forth between the main and the sub tanks. My college roommate was able to do that with his Chevy and his fuel gauge did show the exact amount of fuel left in each tank, well as exact as a Chevy would allow it anyway...

I did not think much of it then, but I think it's pretty cool now. Maybe it's pretty standard for trucks that come with two tanks to be able to demonstrate how much fuel it has in each tank, but unless you have the floating device thingie in the sub tank, it wouldn't be able to show how much gas is available (unless it just moves gas from the sub to the main tank as you described it).

Anyway... I better read up on it again.

Thanks Steven.

Mot

 

[cruiserdan]

Availability of tanks is spotty as they must be "harvested" from wrecks. As a result MAF and I imagine others do not "catalog" them but get them from time to time as a "plesant surprise" and not always with enough stuff or even the right stuff to put them in. They have no control over what is sent and it's a crap shoot when they open the container.
This is further complicated by the fact that the 105 has a similar tank setup and the pieces are sometimes mixed up before they even get here and the 105 stuff will not work properly, further complicating the installation.
The minimum OEM items needed are a tank (hopefully complete with a sending unit), the straps and the dual neck. Obtaining more than this is a bonus and very difficult to do. The fuel transfer system can be fabbed from locally sourced bits.
I am at a bit of of an obsticle in my installation because my tank is missing it's sending unit and my neck is actually a 105 series neck and the outlet ports are in the wrong orientation to properly clear the frame rail. I am in the process of attempting to obtain a sender and the correct neck. If I fail I will have to make a block-off plate for the tank and use a manual fuel transfer circuit and shut the pump down whan the tank is empty as opposed an automatic shut-off. I will also have to "play" with the neck to get it to work.

I will not go into installation as others, like George, have already detailed it . George's is closest to "original" as he was able to obtain the OEM transfer pump assembly. Most of us will end up making our own version. I will be using a Purolator diaphragm pump that I have had kicking around the garage for a few years waiting to see if it would ever get used for something other than pumping the gas out of my boat once a year.
If I can add anything of value to that data base as I progress I will sound out.

D-

 

[loquito]

Thanks Dan

Where would you look for some of the oem type parts if they did not come from Man-o-fre?
Steven

 

[e9999]

this all seems awfully complicated for a lousy can with fuel.
Can't one just put in an aux tank with a simple line to the other tank and let gravity do its job?

 

[NorCalDoug]

this all seems awfully complicated for a lousy can with fuel.
Can't one just put in an aux tank with a simple line to the other tank and let gravity do its job?

I don't think gravity feed is legal.
Someone told me that once. I think you have to have a pump. Not that anyone checks...

 

[hobbes]

The parts sourcing does seem a bit complicated. I've been interested in this mod but its not "plug and play" enough for me yet. Plus I'd need to factor in the cost of a rear bumper to move the spare.

 

[e9999]

seems like this is a feature that you'd really need to use only on very long trips in the boonies. But how often does one do this in the US -unlike our Aussie friends? And when I do, I'll probably have a trailer. So, this is not really high on my priority list, frankly, especially given the complications. A few Jerry cans would do fine...

OTOH, way back when I travelled through Mexico as a young lad, the gas was so bad that I kept one tank with only US gas that I saved for going up serious uphills to avoid pinging. I'd fill only the other one locally. For that, the dual tank with switch in the cab was great. Of course, now the gas is OK in Mexico...

 

[cruiserdan]

The parts sourcing does seem a bit complicated. I've been interested in this mod but its not "plug and play" enough for me yet. Plus I'd need to factor in the cost of a rear bumper to move the spare.

This will never be a plug-and-play enhancement and should not be attempted if you are not properly prepared and have really thought it through. At least one guy I know studied and researched it for over a year before completing the installation. His research has made my job much simpler and I would like to publicly thank him. He knows who he is and may introduce himself if he likes but he avoids the limelight.

As far as what to do about the "tyre" (it's a tyre because the tank is from down under ). If you are doing an OEM tank as opposed to a "long ranger", the tank fits ABOVE the stock spare tyre rack and the tyre stays put.

Why pack more gas in the US? Particilarly in the west it is easy to get "out" quite a ways and the idea of carrying extra fuel in an automotive tank that is "out of the way" becomes very attractive. I fight the gas can wars with my boat on Lake Powell and even under perfect conditions dealing with auxilary cans is a pain in the ass.

D-

 

[strap]

I got the oem aus. tank from MAF and it came with the tank (80 series) correct straps for the tank and like cdan what I believe to be a 105 filler ( that looks brand new) its not installed yet but looks to be a project that will involve some nice words and thrown tools.

strap

 

[alia176]

I was fortunate enough to acquire a complete tank kit from Man-it-ain't-Free for a cost of $300. It came with one tank with sender, one dual filler neck and two tank straps. Additional hardware that I bought are: short section of 1.5" fuel rated fill hose for filling , 5/8" fuel hose (I think) for venting, one carquest (Carter brand) inline fuel pump with built in check valve, one fuel filter and four 1/2" riv nuts, George's Fuel transfer ECU, an OEM Sub tank switch from Slee and a s*** load of patience.

Everything is working fine and the added peace of mind is priceless when you're out in the boon docks! Even if I'm in civilization, it saves time when you only have to fill up around 450 miles or when your bladder is about to explode - YMMV!!

Ali

 

[informationjunky]

any one in Austrialia willin to do some shipping?

 

[loquito]

02-05-05 08:10 PM
[e9999 seems like this is a feature that you'd really need to use only on very long trips in the boonies. But how often does one do this in the US -unlike our Aussie friends? And when I do, I'll probably have a trailer. So, this is not really high on my priority list, frankly, especially given the complications. A few Jerry cans would do fine...

OTOH, way back when I travelled through Mexico as a young lad, the gas was so bad that I kept one tank with only US gas that I saved for going up serious uphills to avoid pinging. I'd fill only the other one locally. For that, the dual tank with switch in the cab was great. Of course, now the gas is OK in Mexico... ]

The second time I drove the Alcan I spent a long cold night sitting in the truck in the gas stations parking lot becouse the gas station closed at 8 pm and I did not know if I had 50 or so miles worth of gas left.

And out side of the well populated areas up here an open station may be hard to find. There are also some long drives where I believe gas stations are far and few between. ( Denali Highway, The road up to the oil fields, The road between Glen Alen and Tok). One time after a long fishing suiside run, I was getting close to civilization as well as close to empty. I saw a gas station by Bird Creek and thought YEA! Pulled up and it was closed so I pulled out the debit card and opened the gas door before I relized there was no place on the pump to insert the card . I made it to Anchorage before I ran out of gas so a good story.



[This will never be a plug-and-play enhancement and should not be attempted if you are not properly prepared and have really thought it through. At least one guy I know studied and researched it for over a year before completing the installation. His research has made my job much simpler and I would like to publicly thank him. He knows who he is and may introduce himself if he likes but he avoids the limelight.

As far as what to do about the "tyre" (it's a tyre because the tank is from down under ). If you are doing an OEM tank as opposed to a "long ranger", the tank fits ABOVE the stock spare tyre rack and the tyre stays put.

Why pack more gas in the US? Particilarly in the west it is easy to get "out" quite a ways and the idea of carrying extra fuel in an automotive tank that is "out of the way" becomes very attractive. I fight the gas can wars with my boat on Lake Powell and even under perfect conditions dealing with auxilary cans is a pain in the ass.

D- ]

I new I get to keep my spare where it is. OEM all the way Baby
As for Plug and Play, I don't need that!

But Dan I am sure you will agree, If the Right parts are sent, then with instructions and some folks to reach out to to tell you "Have you considered this or looked at that" most folks here have done some pretty cool New things to there rigs.

But if I need wheel bearings, and You are my only souce, it will only work if you send me what I need, If I get bearings for a Toyota and the races are for a Mac, And there is no other place to shop, then I am stuck.

02-06-05 12:26 PM
alia176 I was fortunate enough to acquire a complete tank kit from Man-it-ain't-Free for a cost of $300. It came with one tank with sender, one dual filler neck and two tank straps. Additional hardware that I bought are: short section of 1.5" fuel rated fill hose for filling , 5/8" fuel hose (I think) for venting, one carquest (Carter brand) inline fuel pump with built in check valve, one fuel filter and four 1/2" riv nuts, George's Fuel transfer ECU, an OEM Sub tank switch from Slee and a s*** load of patience.

[Everything is working fine and the added peace of mind is priceless when you're out in the boon docks! Even if I'm in civilization, it saves time when you only have to fill up around 450 miles or when your bladder is about to explode - YMMV!!

Ali]

This is so helpful, did you get the 13 gallon Oem tank?

I was going to contact George also

Your Additional hardware section was some of the info I was looking for, Thanks.

Is the supply going to remain iffy? getting parts for differant series in the same order, some getting Senders, some not.

Most of us here have had the UPS man come with a box from the South West, and know how good it feels knowing you got what you needed.

This Mod really interests me.

Thanks you guys.
Steven

 

[OZCAL]

02-05-05 08:10 PM


OTOH, way back when I travelled through Mexico as a young lad, the gas was so bad that I kept one tank with only US gas that I saved for going up serious uphills to avoid pinging. I'd fill only the other one locally. For that, the dual tank with switch in the cab was great. Of course, now the gas is OK in Mexico... ]

---I am pretty sure the standard setup on the OZ oem sub-fuel tank provides that the fuel in the sub-fuel tank is pumped to the main tank when the sub-fuel switch is engaged. I don't think you can "switch tanks". I'll try to see if this is confirmed in my owner's manual tomorrow, but in any case my experience is that when I engage the sub-fuel switch, the needle on the sub-fuel display goes down quickly while the needle on the main tank display comes up quickly. Thus, gas is mixed - which wouldn't help in your Mexico scenario.

That said, I remember driving a manual diesel part-time 4wd 80 in about 1997 (the truck had been around the block a few times and might have been as old as 1991) which had an "A Tank - B Tank" toggle switch on the dash.

Hey, someone mentioned shipping stuff from Australia. There is a Toyota dealer a few miles from me. If there is some little part you need for the tank setup, PM me and I'll throw it in the mail for you.

By the way I highly recommend the sub-fuel tank. Even just for daily driving, you can go far enough between fillups that you sort of forget how thirsty these cars are!

David

 

[mot]

...If there is some little part you need for the tank setup, PM me and I'll throw it in the mail for you.

That is totally nice of you!

By the way I highly recommend the sub-fuel tank. Even just for daily driving, you can go far enough between fillups that you sort of forget how thirsty these cars are.
David

That's cool.
I am one of those people who worries about sliding off the road and getting stranded in a blizzard or something till the help arrives. In the situation like that although highly unlikely, it would be a nice peace of mind to know that having the extra fuel available w/o getting out of the vehicle and allowing me to leave the engine running longer to stay warm (even with or w/o shutting it off so often) would be nice.

Mot

 

[e9999]

I was not saying that there is no point in having extra gas. Just that the complications of the OEM extra tank seem out of proportion to the benefits compared to having a couple of cans, given how rarely you'd really need it...