OEM CV - disappointment

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It’s interesting that aftermarket axles seem to have better rep nowadays, I’m also due for a set and will likely go with Napa axles as well.

I don't think that's the case. Despite a few folks here recently having experienced some poor crimps on the boots, the OEM axles are the only way to get guaranteed new splines. Aftermarket is a gamble. There hasn't been a trend of OEM axles problems until this thread (that I have seen, at least).

Boot clamps are a very easy and inexpensive fix (if caught in time). There is no fix for worn splines and they can leave you stranded if they finally give out.
 
I don't think that's the case. Despite a few folks here recently having experienced some poor crimps on the boots, the OEM axles are the only way to get guaranteed new splines. Aftermarket is a gamble. There hasn't been a trend of OEM axles problems until this thread (that I have seen, at least).

Boot clamps are a very easy and inexpensive fix (if caught in time). There is no fix for worn splines and they can leave you stranded if they finally give out.

Plus the worn splines are a big cause for all of the drive line clunks that drive people nuts.
 
About 2 years ago I put Carquest CV axles on my LX.
They were new, not reman. I paid $65 for each, lifetime warranty.
When Installing one of them, I broke the boot, just because I'm brute, and took it back, they exchanged for a new one, no questions asked, the boot is covered by the warranty because is part of the assembly.
So far no issues, no noises, about 20K miles on them and a coupe of off road trips, lifted 2" and no diff drop.
 
I don't think that's the case. Despite a few folks here recently having experienced some poor crimps on the boots, the OEM axles are the only way to get guaranteed new splines. Aftermarket is a gamble. There hasn't been a trend of OEM axles problems until this thread (that I have seen, at least).

Boot clamps are a very easy and inexpensive fix (if caught in time). There is no fix for worn splines and they can leave you stranded if they finally give out.

I actually bought a reboot kit, however when I removed the OEM cvs, they were in pretty rough shape, and the grease was watery. I didn't feel comfortable rebooting them, so I went with aftermarket. I probably have the mcmaster clamps and OEM boots floating around somewhere.

My cardone CVs were indeed new (as mentioned above as well). My only observation is that the splines were a little tight when inserting through the hub gear.. this could have been due to also installing brand new hub gears as well though. Light even pressure is all that was needed in my case, but it was definitely tighter than the OEM cvs and gears that came off (250k miles).
 
I actually bought a reboot kit, however when I removed the OEM cvs, they were in pretty rough shape, and the grease was watery. I didn't feel comfortable rebooting them, so I went with aftermarket. I probably have the mcmaster clamps and OEM boots floating around somewhere.

My cardone CVs were indeed new (as mentioned above as well). My only observation is that the splines were a little tight when inserting through the hub gear.. this could have been due to also installing brand new hub gears as well though. Light even pressure is all that was needed in my case, but it was definitely tighter than the OEM cvs and gears that came off (250k miles).

I just googled those and that is impressive that they can offer supposedly brand new materials for that little. I'm not sure how that's possible. The splines being too tight should be no problem. I'd be more concerned with them being too loose.

Good data point, though, thanks! I wonder how many of those aftermarket "new" (new in quotes, because I still have a hard time believing it's similar quality metal and new) CVs will last 200-300k like the OEMs tend to. I'm guessing almost none, but they may outlive most owner's time of possession so it could be moot.
 
Is it the Cardone CVs that only have the 3 ball bearings vs the 6 on the Toyota CVs?
 
Yes on the 6 ball vs 3 non-oem. Wish I had taken pictures to show you guys when I cut it up to see. I have had terrible luck on non OEM CVs. I lifted my front end 1.25 inch over stock (20.5" hub to fender), and it immediately made awful bad wheel bearing sounds/roaring like a bad diff. I know it wasn't when bearings because they were 5k miles old. It was the non OEM CVs. I have tried 3 non OEMs of them. First one slung grease brand new, second one didn't fit into my the hub flange, third one roars worst than bad wheel bearings.
 
Yes on the 6 ball vs 3 non-oem. Wish I had taken pictures to show you guys when I cut it up to see. I have had terrible luck on non OEM CVs. I lifted my front end 1.25 inch over stock (20.5" hub to fender), and it immediately made awful bad wheel bearing sounds/roaring like a bad diff. I know it wasn't when bearings because they were 5k miles old. It was the non OEM CVs. I have tried 3 non OEMs of them. First one slung grease brand new, second one didn't fit into my the hub flange, third one roars worst than bad wheel bearings.

I wheel the crap out of my 100 so the 3 ball just isn't an option. I would love to find a less expensive CV, but I am not finding it.

It is good to know to keep an eye on the boots even for new Toyota CVs. Guess it is one more item to add to the checklist.
 
Good info and will be on the look out.

I had Lexus install driver and passenger cv’s (I bought them new from McGeorge) back in September. I do still have the old cv’s and also bought a boot kit thinking I would have a spare Cv ready to go in case.
Thanks
 
I don't think that's the case. Despite a few folks here recently having experienced some poor crimps on the boots, the OEM axles are the only way to get guaranteed new splines. Aftermarket is a gamble. There hasn't been a trend of OEM axles problems until this thread (that I have seen, at least).

Boot clamps are a very easy and inexpensive fix (if caught in time). There is no fix for worn splines and they can leave you stranded if they finally give out.


We've done 7 CV jobs in the past few months and all but one had spline issues. One or the other or both wouldn't fit the drive flanges. All were Cardone rebuilds. The one that didn't have an issue was the new Toyota set. We make it a point to check/re-crimp all bands during install.

For guys that are on the fence between aftermarket or OEM; I recommend calling Carl @just differentials for a set of Nitro CV assemblies. They run about 210.00 each happy medium and they stand behind and have a nice quality control. I can help acquire these or give Mik or Carl a call.



Jason
 
We've done 7 CV jobs in the past few months and all but one had spline issues. One or the other or both wouldn't fit the drive flanges. All were Cardone rebuilds. The one that didn't have an issue was the new Toyota set. We make it a point to check/re-crimp all bands during install.

For guys that are on the fence between aftermarket or OEM; I recommend calling Carl @just differentials for a set of Nitro CV assemblies. They run about 210.00 each happy medium and they stand behind and have a nice quality control. I can help acquire these or give Mik or Carl a call.



Jason

Thanks for adding your advice here. Your take, as someone working on the general population of rigs, is worth more than any of our individual anecdotes. Sounds like OEM is still king.
 
Thanks for adding your advice here. Your take, as someone working on the general population of rigs, is worth more than any of our individual anecdotes. Sounds like OEM is still king.


Thanks,

We don't work on nearly what some of the other shops do on this forum. But, In the past two years since we opened up for light wrenching, I know where to buy parts from to sell to my customers without later issues.

Also, for everyone reading this; just because it's new/rebuild out of a box dooesn't mean its 100% regardless the mfg.... I've gotten new Toyota transfer cases that bolts were loose on. So, our policy is.. if it has a fastener... we inspect it before install or assembly.

J
 
For guys that are on the fence between aftermarket or OEM; I recommend calling Carl @just differentials for a set of Nitro CV assemblies. They run about 210.00 each happy medium and they stand behind and have a nice quality control. I can help acquire these or give Mik or Carl a call.



Jason

Their web site shows this technical note:

Tech Note:
Standard Aftermarket Replacement for either left or right side.
Not Recommended for off-road use. Not recommended for use with oversize tires.
 
Their web site shows this technical note:

Tech Note:
Standard Aftermarket Replacement for either left or right side.
Not Recommended for off-road use. Not recommended for use with oversize tires.

Would be the same thing for Toyota or Cardone if they spelled it out (in writing and UP FRONT) as well. Toyota or Rock Auto will not "warranty" off road use either.
 
Last edited:
Their web site shows this technical note:

Tech Note:
Standard Aftermarket Replacement for either left or right side.
Not Recommended for off-road use. Not recommended for use with oversize tires.


I know a few that have broken Toyota axles and when they were towed to the dealership the service manager walks out points to the "oversized" tires and refused warranty too.
 
Would be the same thing for Toyota or Cardone if they spelled it out (in writing and UP FRONT) as well. Toyota or Rock Auto will not "warranty" off road use either.
I wouldn't be complaining if Toyota had actually fastened the clamps with some actual tightness.

When the clamps on an Autozone reman last a couple years of driving, towing, and wheeling, and Toyota ones go to crap in 8000 miles of easy highway use, Toyota is not doing something right. They can disclaim all they want in the fine print....
 
So if OEM is unable to handle off road use and larger tires (on a Land Cruiser for God's sake!!) should one buy the least costly good quality aftermarket axles with perhaps a lifetime warranty and just plan of replacing them couple of years?
 
Clamps on my new OEM CV's are tight. Might have been a bad batch other folks received. I've had both aftermarket and OEM CV's and the OEM joints are on a whole different level quality wise.

If you're snapping OEM CV's off-road it must be on 35's. If you're on 33's and breaking these CV's I'd recommend signing up for an off road driving and recovery course because there is no reason you should break these CV's.
 

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