Hey guys just bought a 100 for my wife to drive. Went to emissions test and I failed. Guy tried two different computers and eventually said the obd will not communicate. Test results said "DLC damaged". Any idea what this could be?
Obd help
- Thread starter sk8salomon
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
It's saying that it can't connect to the OBD port and it's default to that it's damaged. I'm trying to remember if there's another OBD port under the hood of if the one in the footwell is the only one. Regardless, disconnect the + on the battery for a minute and check it again. Was the CEL on prior to testing?
- Thread starter
- #3
No cel but po installed k&n cold air intake so would anything need to be bypassed for that? It looks like all vac lines & maf plug directly into the unit.
- Thread starter
- #4
Should there be a "main 100A" fuse in this box? 
Did they fail it just because they couldn't get the OBD to read? If yes, maybe go to a parts store that has the hand held readers and see if they can get one of theirs to connect. Have the truck running and then plug the connector in. Maybe the problem isn't the OBD port (which would be the first I've ever heard of) and is the places' reader software or something.
And cherish that battery . . .
And cherish that battery . . .
Despite the K&N it should still be communicating.
Reset the computer by removing the (-) cable for 15-30 minutes and then see if perhaps a local parts store can read OBD codes, assuming you don't have a code reader.
Don't recall hearing of this problem before, could be as simple as a wiring harness connector disconnected somewhere, maybe at the ECU behind the golve box?
Reset the computer by removing the (-) cable for 15-30 minutes and then see if perhaps a local parts store can read OBD codes, assuming you don't have a code reader.
Don't recall hearing of this problem before, could be as simple as a wiring harness connector disconnected somewhere, maybe at the ECU behind the golve box?
- Thread starter
- #8
Took it to auto zone today & they hooked up their scanner. It communicated and showed no error codes. Now I'm totally confused. Maybe I should take it to another test facility here.
Come to think of it my wife had a similar issue... I dismissed it as mororns at the test facility but I wonder if there is trick to it.
They were complaining that the Toyota system was non-standard... I laughed and said its a federally compliant OBD vehicle so they must be idiots (after she got home). Now you've got me wondering.
Apparently they fiddled around for an hour or so, don't know if they got it to read or just gave her an exception. In Colorado it's all run by 1 subcontractor with identical equipment at all locations. Quite the revenue racket.
They were complaining that the Toyota system was non-standard... I laughed and said its a federally compliant OBD vehicle so they must be idiots (after she got home). Now you've got me wondering.
Apparently they fiddled around for an hour or so, don't know if they got it to read or just gave her an exception. In Colorado it's all run by 1 subcontractor with identical equipment at all locations. Quite the revenue racket.
I've noticed with my Scangauge if I plug it in before the truck is on, it will pull power from the port and just stick on "connecting". I have to have the truck running first and then plug it in. Maybe your testing center's equipment does something similar.
- Thread starter
- #12
Here's an update: took it to another location and same failure to communicate. The guy had me pull around to two other booths and same failure. I then ran it down the street to a garage where they hooked up their scanner, communicated and found no error codes.
I decided to do some digging under the dash. First thing I found is PO spliced some wiring into the factory harness coming out of the fuse panel. I checked all fuses that are present and none are blown. The plug missing in the side of the fuse panel looks like the green plug with elec tape that is spliced into a wire that goes all the way back to the friggen trailer wiring plug.
I decided to do some digging under the dash. First thing I found is PO spliced some wiring into the factory harness coming out of the fuse panel. I checked all fuses that are present and none are blown. The plug missing in the side of the fuse panel looks like the green plug with elec tape that is spliced into a wire that goes all the way back to the friggen trailer wiring plug.
- Thread starter
- #13
Can somebody confirm if the open plug near the fuse panel should be empty or not?
Fuses that are missing: abc-b, rr a.c. & ahc-ig
Also posting a pic of the obd plug connection. Does anybody know the pin out for this?
Fuses that are missing: abc-b, rr a.c. & ahc-ig
Also posting a pic of the obd plug connection. Does anybody know the pin out for this?
What did the PO splice into and for what accessory? Search on the OBD pin out, seems someone posted it recently.
I had a Scangauge tried on my 2002 LX470 with no luck either.
Afterwards I have the VCS OFF and VCS TRC lights on.
My mechanic did clear them but they are coming back when I start driving forward.
He pulled out an unknown code.
Afterwards I have the VCS OFF and VCS TRC lights on.
My mechanic did clear them but they are coming back when I start driving forward.
He pulled out an unknown code.
- Thread starter
- #16
Trunk Monkey said:
It looks like power for an aftermarket brake module. POS PO ran wire thru firewall without grommet under truck and all way back to trailer plug connector.
- Thread starter
- #17
Also this is a connector I found just taped up in this mess of wiring. Is this a fuse plug that should be plugged into the missing area near the panel?
Well, I'd start by getting a light tester probe and seeing if the OBD port has 12v power. If it doesn't, trace that wire back. Maybe something got jarrred loose in your PO's wiring job. If it does, then see about tracing from the port to the ECU.
- Thread starter
- #19
I traced the mysterious red wire from the brake module. It splits 3 ways. 1 goes to the 12V/120W plug in the console. The 2nd is smashed into the top right factory plug above fuse panel. The 3rd is what pokes thru the firewall & goes back to the trailer plug wiring connection. Here is a quick diagram & pic of how the wiring was spliced into the factory connection.
- Thread starter
- #20
There is a yellow wire coming off the module that has been spliced into the wiring on the back of the brake pedal sensor. When I was under there taking the wiring off, all of a sudden I heard a small motor running sound. Kinda like what a 60 carb cooling fan sounds like. It was coming from somewhere either up under the dash or near the firewall in the engine compartment.
I also removed the obd fuse and tested that connection with key on, showed 0.15 vdc. I have not checked anything on the obd connector yet.
I also removed the obd fuse and tested that connection with key on, showed 0.15 vdc. I have not checked anything on the obd connector yet.