O.K. guys...searched like crazy, not sure I found an answer. (1 Viewer)

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O.K. just got back....vibration is only slight through steering wheel. Most of it can be felt right at the floor board under your feet. It IS worse at one speed than another, about 68-72 mph...then goes away completely at 80 and again at 60. Is always most noticeable when decelerating (weight shifts to front). No pulsing through brake pedal.

Shifting into neutral smooths it out slightly. No difference if vehicle is going straight or through a curve.

Looked at my bushings this morning and I can't visibly see any wear, can't move components by hand either. I don't know...this one has me baffled.
 
my first thoughts are diff/pinion gear or nut related,, I had a similar porblem in my 40,,, but you probably felt for that when you inspected the DS,,,

have you removed the ds front then rear? as suggested earlier

good luck
 
3pits said:
my first thoughts are diff/pinion gear or nut related,, I had a similar porblem in my 40,,, but you probably felt for that when you inspected the DS,,,

have you removed the ds front then rear? as suggested earlier

good luck



Thats tomorrows project.

Damn....just had them off yesterday too!
 
flintknapper said:
Thats tomorrows project.

Damn....just had them off yesterday too!


Good, try just locking the CDL with them both in as well.

I just fixed this same thing after months of troubleshooting, and these steps are what helped track it to pinion angle in the rear.
 
Safado said:
Good, try just locking the CDL with them both in as well.

I just fixed this same thing after months of troubleshooting, and these steps are what helped track it to pinion angle in the rear.

Safado:

How did you correct the rear pinion angle after you diagnosed it? My assumption is that the pinion angle was influenced by lifting it?

Thanks much.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
I'd suspect front driveshaft. Get under there and yank it all around, hard, see if there is any movement in the u-joints at all. If you can spin the front driveshaft (t/c in neutral and one front tire lifted) and verify the u-joint caps are moving with the yoke they are pressed into, NOT with the u-joint itself, I've seen 2 that the cap became sloppy in the yoke (both were using non-Toyota u-joints).

Also with regards to the front driveshaft, it can definetly be 180-degrees off, it would be hard to notice, but very possibly if it had been removed and the slip-yoke slid off the shaft. If the u-joints were all stock you could line-up the correct placement of all the grease-zirks to make sure the slip-yoke isn't 180-degrees off. (visually the driveshaft will look fine 180-degrees off, but there are balancing weights on there for a reason, and those will ofcourse not balance if they are 180-degrees off).

Good Luck...
 
mabrodis said:
I'd suspect front driveshaft. Get under there and yank it all around, hard, see if there is any movement in the u-joints at all. If you can spin the front driveshaft (t/c in neutral and one front tire lifted) and verify the u-joint caps are moving with the yoke they are pressed into, NOT with the u-joint itself, I've seen 2 that the cap became sloppy in the yoke (both were using non-Toyota u-joints).

Also with regards to the front driveshaft, it can definetly be 180-degrees off, it would be hard to notice, but very possibly if it had been removed and the slip-yoke slid off the shaft. If the u-joints were all stock you could line-up the correct placement of all the grease-zirks to make sure the slip-yoke isn't 180-degrees off. (visually the driveshaft will look fine 180-degrees off, but there are balancing weights on there for a reason, and those will ofcourse not balance if they are 180-degrees off).

Good Luck...

Mark--

Can you talk more about the 180 degree possibility? It seems geometically, that 180 degrees would bring it right back in the place it was before moving, except the other side of the yoke would be in it's place--as you said, one would not notice the 180 degree move.

TIA.
-onur
 
beno said:
Mark--

Can you talk more about the 180 degree possibility? It seems geometically, that 180 degrees would bring it right back in the place it was before moving, except the other side of the yoke would be in it's place--as you said, one would not notice the 180 degree move.

TIA.
-onur
The driveshaft is balanced as a whole I believe, so weights are in the correct spots to balance it. Weights on the slip-yoke part (the part you can easily slip off) are possibly balancing out something on the other part of the shaft. I don't think each part of the shaft is balanced seperately then put together. If that was the case then yes it shouldn't matter if you flip that slip-yoke part 180-degrees or not, because it is balanced by itself.

The phasing of the front driveshaft is out-of-phase, so there is a 90-degree angle difference from the rear u-joint to the front u-joint, but is that front u-joint turned 90-degrees more or 90-degrees less. Visually it won't matter, but balancing-wise it will matter. I mentioned checking the grease-zirks because in the FSM there are clear descriptions about what order the zirks should be in (this one pointed at this angle, that one pointed at that angle, etc), so looking at that (and if you know your u-joints are factory installed, so the grease-zirk-hole is put where it should be, not the other 3 possible places) you could see if the slip-yoke is correctly placed.

My guess is the yoke is fine and it's a driveshaft balancing issue, or a u-joint is worn, or a tire out of balance.
 
mabrodis said:
The driveshaft is balanced as a whole I believe, so weights are in the correct spots to balance it. Weights on the slip-yoke part (the part you can easily slip off) are possibly balancing out something on the other part of the shaft. I don't think each part of the shaft is balanced seperately then put together. If that was the case then yes it shouldn't matter if you flip that slip-yoke part 180-degrees or not, because it is balanced by itself.

The phasing of the front driveshaft is out-of-phase, so there is a 90-degree angle difference from the rear u-joint to the front u-joint, but is that front u-joint turned 90-degrees more or 90-degrees less. Visually it won't matter, but balancing-wise it will matter. I mentioned checking the grease-zirks because in the FSM there are clear descriptions about what order the zirks should be in (this one pointed at this angle, that one pointed at that angle, etc), so looking at that (and if you know your u-joints are factory installed, so the grease-zirk-hole is put where it should be, not the other 3 possible places) you could see if the slip-yoke is correctly placed.

My guess is the yoke is fine and it's a driveshaft balancing issue, or a u-joint is worn, or a tire out of balance.

Thanks for the explanation Mark. I agree about the balancing. When the guys here did my front and rear, they took everything apart, cleaned what was being saved, greased, put it back together, balanced as a whole piece (the entire drive shaft) and then painted.

They did screw up one zirk. But as far as I can tell, I think I can just turn the zirk myself into the correct orientation according to the FSM.

FWIW though, I think Ken recently had his drive shafts rebuilt and balanced with OEM Toy. stuff... :doh:


-onur
 
In my case the first thing I suspected was driveshaft imbalance. I removed both driveshafts, disassembled, cleaned thoroughly in my parts washer, inspected u-joints and splines, re-greased everything since all checked out O.K.

The "match marks" on both shafts were still clear to see and both of my shafts are phased correctly.

Could I have a tread separating on a tire?
 
maybe rotate the tires if the driveshafts don't eliminate it?

fwiw i think a vibration that comes in then dies down between 60-75 mph is common along with a drivetrain whine. i had one before the lift and have a slightly worse one now. my drive shafts are cleaned and correct. i've been reading about others having these issues ever since I got on this board.

the speed makes me think it is a harmonic vibration. something at that speed interacts with something else.
 
I have the same vibration with my 97. It started about three weeks ago after I did, well had someone else do, most of the services as you. I have an OME 2.5 lift and just added 1" spacers in the front. I haven't had time to play around with acceleration, neutral etc.

Please post your finding.

Thanks,

TT
 
beno said:
Safado:

How did you correct the rear pinion angle after you diagnosed it? My assumption is that the pinion angle was influenced by lifting it?

Thanks much.
-onur
Akron, OH


Adjustable upper control arms and a CV in the rear drive line. All quiet on the home front. Flint won't need this, however his problem still could be related to one of the drivelines...still waiting to see the results of the test.
 
Safado said:
Adjustable upper control arms and a CV in the rear drive line. All quiet on the home front. Flint won't need this, however his problem still could be related to one of the drivelines...still waiting to see the results of the test.



Had to move my daughter guys, so I won't get around to it today (I'm beat). I'll do it Sunday and post back.
 
Safado said:
Adjustable upper control arms and a CV in the rear drive line. All quiet on the home front. Flint won't need this, however his problem still could be related to one of the drivelines...still waiting to see the results of the test.

Thanks.

The adjustble upper rears are next month's project. ;)

I am not going rear CV, though I did just fully rebuild the rear shaft with OEM Toy.

I'm almost there.

Flint: Bring this back to the top when you get your results.

Best.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
I had a similar problem after I installed a six inch lift on my 105 series (live axle 100).(Not an 80 ,but closer underneath than a 100) Had a double cardan joint from a hilux put on the transfer case end of the front shaft. All gone!
Phil.
 
Phil said:
I had a similar problem after I installed a six inch lift on my 105 series (live axle 100).(Not an 80 ,but closer underneath than a 100) Had a double cardan joint from a hilux put on the transfer case end of the front shaft. All gone!
Phil.

Nice.

I believe Incoma on the boards here took a rear drive shaft off of a 1999 Tacoma Extended Cab and had some work done on it and placed it on his rig. It came with a factory double cardan too.

I believe Tom Wood did the shaft work...

It's doable... ;)
 

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