Now what broke? repairs, mods, need help etc. (1 Viewer)

TeddyBoy

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All is well. At least the problem was obvious. It appears I couldn't identify the difference between the outside of a front driveshaft and the outside of the slip yoke cover. When I sleeved the driveshaft, I did two plug welds over the slip yoke cover that penetrated into the splines.
The driveshaft didn't want to compress, thus pushing the transfer case off the tranny. Really stupid mistake:bang: . Oh well at least it's not a mystery. Bought the stronger AA adapter . Ready to wheel again. At least attempt to anyway.

At least there's a year between now and Moab to get some wheeling time in.

so let me get this straight, if I recall that day correctly.... You're saying you made it from camp to the parking lot, up trail 15, up Little School Bus then all the way around to the beginning of Rail Trail, then up 1/2 of RT on a driveshaft without any slip. Does that sound about right???

WOW. I would have never have bet that would be possible especially given that Little School Bus aint no joke.

EDIT - wait, we didn't do LSB that day, we ran it on Thursday.

Anyway, glad you found the issue. Now as for Hawk Pride in September... :moon:
 

cruisermatt

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All is well. At least the problem was obvious. It appears I couldn't identify the difference between the outside of a front driveshaft and the outside of the slip yoke cover. When I sleeved the driveshaft, I did two plug welds over the slip yoke cover that penetrated into the splines.
The driveshaft didn't want to compress, thus pushing the transfer case off the tranny. Really stupid mistake:bang: . Oh well at least it's not a mystery. Bought the stronger AA adapter . Ready to wheel again. At least attempt to anyway.

At least there's a year between now and Moab to get some wheeling time in.

I'm actually not sure I believe that two spots of weld burn-though would be strong enough to break that trans mount the way you did...
 

cruisermatt

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plug welds are not spot welds. plug welds are far more robust and penetrate much deeper.

Well, that would depend entirely on the surface area and height of the weld as well as the settings on the machine and material thickness. In addition, any weld that permeates through to the other side of the material second base material in a lap/fillet weld (a plug weld or rosette weld is essentially a circular fillet weld) is actually a result of being welded too hot unnecessarily. Quality weld penetration isn't always going to be seen from the other side of the material. In fact, quality penetration for a fillet weld is often described as only 25% to 50% of the material thickness of the base metal. See figure B.

This is why I'm skeptical that the very small surface area of the backsides of two welds, which should essentially be like (slag) wouldn't deform or get scrapped off effortless when faced with several thousand pounds of force.

fig8-23.jpg
 
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Been meaning to ask for a status update, that's good news. I just picked up that spare long travel shaft and found out I'll need to swap out the flanges - have one spare, will be on the hunt for a second and will then need to dismantle, make it a few inches longer, and swap out the flanges. One less spare....Post up a pic of the sleeved material you used. Sounds like overkill.

Also sold some more rare 40 stuff, so have about half my Moab funds in savings, but that's for another thread.

All is well. At least the problem was obvious. It appears I couldn't identify the difference between the outside of a front driveshaft and the outside of the slip yoke cover. When I sleeved the driveshaft, I did two plug welds over the slip yoke cover that penetrated into the splines.
The driveshaft didn't want to compress, thus pushing the transfer case off the tranny. Really stupid mistake:bang: . Oh well at least it's not a mystery. Bought the stronger AA adapter . Ready to wheel again. At least attempt to anyway.

At least there's a year between now and Moab to get some wheeling time in.
 

cruisermatt

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Been meaning to ask for a status update, that's good news. I just picked up that spare long travel shaft and found out I'll need to swap out the flanges - have one spare, will be on the hunt for a second and will then need to dismantle, make it a few inches longer, and swap out the flanges. One less spare....Post up a pic of the sleeved material you used. Sounds like overkill.

Also sold some more rare 40 stuff, so have about half my Moab funds in savings, but that's for another thread.

What flange do you need? I had a pile of driveshafts and yokes at one point, sold or used a lot of it but still have some bits.
 
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Would be from a 76, not at home to measure. I had the wrong measurement on one end and the seller did the realize he didn't measure the other correctly. Not a big deal - bought it for the long travel slip parts.

I might also be running a universal on the Orion side, so might be able to run a 60 side if that's what you have.

Not worried something will pop up. I'll post pics next week of what is on it, as I'll be giving those away.

What flange do you need? I had a pile of driveshafts and yokes at one point, sold or used a lot of it but still have some bits.
 
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Is that my old t-case that I installed 2.31 gears in? Either way, that t-case saver is a good investment.
 
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Anyone can tell it's a 4-speed case from the casting :flipoff2:, what I was wondering was if that was the 4-speed case I put 2.31 gears in? I sold it to Dennis, he ran it then gave it back to me, I gave it to JD, then JD said he gave it to Luis - who in turn out it in another 40.

So just wondering if it was the "same" case that I'd built many years ago, and if it has like 9 lives or something :deadhorse:.

Otherwise, how did the install go?
 

cruisermatt

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Anyone can tell it's a 4-speed case from the casting :flipoff2:, what I was wondering was if that was the 4-speed case I put 2.31 gears in? I sold it to Dennis, he ran it then gave it back to me, I gave it to JD, then JD said he gave it to Luis - who in turn out it in another 40.

So just wondering if it was the "same" case that I'd built many years ago, and if it has like 9 lives or something :deadhorse:.

Otherwise, how did the install go?

When I left he was sawzalling the tube crossmember out. Haven't heard from him since, but knowing him he's probably already driving it by know.

And now you know that I don't know anything about 1-piece cases!
 
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Ah yes, I had to ditch that cross member too. I can attest that a replacement is advisable as the frame flexes too much without it.

Updates/pics Luis?
 
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Hello all,

I have been having some issues with my 93 cruiser running rough and this week it has finally given me a CEL and codes 83,84,85. Searching on the forums this is caused by a bad ECU and needs to be replaced. However, looking behind the glovebox I have found that the ECU in the truck is the 89661-60221 newer ECU that isn't supposed to have this problem. Called up cruiser parts and they have used ones in stock however asking if they were sure if this replacement ECU would give me these same issues he couldn't answer but he did bring up a good point. He mentioned to try and find some one with a 93-94 80 series that isn't having my issues and see if swapping in that ECU would fix my issues or not. If not then my problem lies elsewhere.

So is there anyone in the Orlando area that would be willing to help me out? Looking for someone with the 89661-60221 ECU.
 
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I can agree with that but for a lot of stuff they have been the easiest way to get some parts for a decent price in a pinch. Any other recommendations as to where to source this ECU to buy one other than from Toyota for $1800.....?
 

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