Now what broke? repairs, mods, need help etc. (1 Viewer)

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Do you have any Chevy springs sitting around?

No I don't. I bought brand new 3.5" lift ones for $310 delivered. I got them from 4Wheel parts on a 10% off end of month sale
Pro Comp Part # EXP13211 .
 
Have you looked into the 4Runner booster/master combo? I know the master cylinder works and I THINK you can run the booster as well.
 
Rock sliders for @bucfl amd @Cruzer_89 coming along slowly but surely.

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Also mocking up some rear 1/4 protection for myself

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Nice work! .120 or .188 wall tubing?
 
0.120 wall DOM. Paid way too much for it too :rolleyes:. For the rest of my rear 1/4 protection I'm doing HREW.
 
hey are you planing on selling any of them see you an extra pair

Neither of these are for me, they are for Carlos' and Omar's 100 series Land Cruisers.
 
On the last day of GSMTR I discovered a nasty tire rub between the front right tire and leaf spring when turning right, didn't feel like investigating there and drove home no problem. Steering wheel angle a couple degrees left I assumed I had bent my drag link I little bit during the week. No big deal...
had a little wheel shimmy around 45-50 mph. Chalked it up to worn out spring bushings. Got home and daily drove it for a week, had trouble making right turns because the tire rub was so bad. Finally got around to looking into it last night. Steering stops never changed, but I pulled it all the way out. Ok, no tire rub until I went UP THE DRIVEWAY. How do I have intermittent tire rub on a leaf spring??

Got my brother to turn the wheel and not only do I see the frame and leaf springs all over the place (shot bushings) I see the axle moving forwards and backwards on the leaf spring! Hitting the rock slider, hitting the frame, all over the place! Can't believe I drove 650 miles (then another 150 miles this week) with a broken center pin.

Replaced front spring bushings, and replaced broken center pin with some specialty Porsche bolt that had the perfect dimensions. And the front right wheel bearing was a bit loose.
Whole new truck now with
new bushings just in the front shackles. Clunk at low speed turning gone, wobble at speed gone, steering wheel straight, no wander, and the steering feels tighter. Not even going to do the rears, I'm happy for now. For now...

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Most urethane bushings just fall apart before their time. Would be nice to figure out which brands hold up.
 
Good score! Does this mean a restoration is in the future?
 
Good score! Does this mean a restoration is in the future?

Not in the near future, but yes. Probably will do everything I want to do mechanically/suspension, test it, then do the body. The rust isn't so bad now that waiting another year or two is going to get any worse.
 
Good score! Does this mean a restoration is in the future?


so speaking of broke junk, what up with the truck?


Not in the near future, but yes. Probably will do everything I want to do mechanically/suspension, test it, then do the body. The rust isn't so bad now that waiting another year or two is going to get any worse.

nice work Matt, was just looking at your engine rebuild. Watch out for those center pins though, pretty sure you have yours upside down. The nut should go on top and the round head on the bottom.

I just replaced the new one we installed on my truck in the Windrock parking lot during GSMTR cuz it was bent, had all of 3 trail days on it.
 
nice work Matt, was just looking at your engine rebuild. Watch out for those center pins though, pretty sure you have yours upside down. The nut should go on top and the round head on the bottom.

I just replaced the new one we installed on my truck in the Windrock parking lot during GSMTR cuz it was bent, had all of 3 trail days on it.


Which one, there's been three of them :rofl:

As for the center pin I don't know which way it's supposed to go but the round head of the bolt I used fit perfectly in the hole in my spring perch so it seemed logical to me to do it that way. When I do the SOA the bolt head will have to go down as I'll be designing and building zero-height perches. I'll design it to use probably a 3/8 SHCS.
 
Which one, there's been three of them :rofl:

As for the center pin I don't know which way it's supposed to go but the round head of the bolt I used fit perfectly in the hole in my spring perch so it seemed logical to me to do it that way. When I do the SOA the bolt head will have to go down as I'll be designing and building zero-height perches. I'll design it to use probably a 3/8 SHCS.


well then you're either getting good at rebuilding motors by now or you really suck at it, I dunno which. :flipoff2:

aAs for the pin, you're right. I forgot 60 series were spring under.
 
well then you're either getting good at rebuilding motors by now or you really suck at it, I dunno which. :flipoff2:

aAs for the pin, you're right. I forgot 60 series were spring under.

I'm a good engine builder, my problem is maintaining them or abusing them.
 
so speaking of broke junk, what up with the truck?
All is well. At least the problem was obvious. It appears I couldn't identify the difference between the outside of a front driveshaft and the outside of the slip yoke cover. When I sleeved the driveshaft, I did two plug welds over the slip yoke cover that penetrated into the splines.
The driveshaft didn't want to compress, thus pushing the transfer case off the tranny. Really stupid mistake:bang: . Oh well at least it's not a mystery. Bought the stronger AA adapter . Ready to wheel again. At least attempt to anyway.

At least there's a year between now and Moab to get some wheeling time in.
 

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