NOVA Member looking for a good Service Shop in the area. Thanks!

[MudSlanger]

I am a new member to mud. I picked up a GX470 and am looking for a reputable service shop in the northern Virginia Haymarket, Chantilly, Sterling area to give her a full check for hidden issues.
I am also wanting to get 35" tires, if anyone here knows of a shop please pass along their info and thanks in advance.

 

[4runner2FJ60]

@OTRAMM Look him up!

 

[MudSlanger]

Good looking out, I called and they were great. They work with Cruiser outfitter from UT. I told them I was looking at getting 35's and was thinking about going w/ Icon's or Kings 2.5 coil overs. They said after time they would wear out more quickly than an Old Man EMU. I think the icons can be rebuilt fairly easy not sure about the costs. I ended up calling cruiser outfitters as suggested and they recommended the OMEMU's, SPC UCA's forgot the name of the springs but they recommended soft to medium all around after explaining I was not planning on replacing either front or rear bumpers. The thing is they called me back and said I would need a different lift kit as the 35's would not work and recommended I go 33's. I'm guessing this is because the OMEMU's only go up to 2-2.5"? Either way I appreciate the support, this forum is fantastic! I am aware about the BMC, tapping and pinch wield to clear the 35's but I'm guessing its more of the same for the 33's? I do plan on mounting a spare on the rear and a roof rack and tent, shelf system and fridge and at some point maybe tow a small trailer.
So at this point I'm not sure if I should down size as it may appear as though cruiser outfitters only carry Old Man gear I'm also not sure about the soft to medium spring rate as I'll be the first to admit I plan on making this my daily driver so I'm not going to be entering the baja 500 anytime soon but I am going to want to go camping in the mountains and the beach and had read on this thread that it was recommended a medium spring up front and a heavy out back.

 

[captainva]

Welcome to NOVA! To provide some thoughts below:

• Why do you want 35s if you're not doing really serious wheeling? Not only will your MPGs take a big hit, tires are more expensive, you'll need to regear which costs thousands, 35s force you to buy new wheels to fit them, and you'll still most likely have fitment issues and rubbing in the end. Its not just a BMC and hammering pinch welds, fitting a 35 properly depends hugely on the tire size and rim backspacing as well as how you align the truck.
• If you get the factory 6500lbs hitch for towing even a 33 will not fit under the car without rubbing your panhard bar. I have heard almost nothing good long term from people with the hatch mounted spare tire aside from some people who like the becky system but for that price just get a bumper.
• If you lift more than about 2.5" you're going to take a big ride quality hit as well since you're going to have zero available down travel on your shocks. Don't go more than this.
• The advice on Kings and Icons not lasting is correct and from the sounds of it you will be daily driving this and want things to last so Bilstein, OME, or Ironman foamcells are your best bet.
• For future goals, one thing at a time. Buy the springs and parts that suit your truck now or you're going to be lifted too much and your ride quality will be terrible.

Take a step back on some of these thoughts. 35s are definitely cool but you really don't need them. Even on 33s these trucks can handle some crazy terrain that most people wouldn't want to take their rig on. What my truck can do with just a lift, tires, and skids. To do 35s right is a $7-10k cost in just parts all day long. Keep it mild or you're going to kill your wallet and not be happy with what you end up with. If you're interested in wheeling check out the NOVA land cruiser club.

Also this video and others on his videos can teach you a lot about what's best when picking suspension, higher lifts are not it.

 

[Banandalorian]

^2nd this. In general, it seems like Kings have a longer life cycle than Icons but King doesn't have the best reputation in our climate. They have issues with rust and pitting on the piston rods unless you are doing a ton of preventative maintenance/cleaning/coating.
Don't buy stiffer/heavier springs because you might add weight in the future. If you know you're gonna add drawers and fridges and bumpers in the next 6 months that is one thing, but don't ruin the ride quality because you *might* add a steel bumper 2 years from now.

 

[MudSlanger]

Welcome to NOVA! To provide some thoughts below:

• Why do you want 35s if you're not doing really serious wheeling? Not only will your MPGs take a big hit, tires are more expensive, you'll need to regear which costs thousands, 35s force you to buy new wheels to fit them, and you'll still most likely have fitment issues and rubbing in the end. Its not just a BMC and hammering pinch welds, fitting a 35 properly depends hugely on the tire size and rim backspacing as well as how you align the truck.
• If you get the factory 6500lbs hitch for towing even a 33 will not fit under the car without rubbing your panhard bar. I have heard almost nothing good long term from people with the hatch mounted spare tire aside from some people who like the becky system but for that price just get a bumper.
• If you lift more than about 2.5" you're going to take a big ride quality hit as well since you're going to have zero available down travel on your shocks. Don't go more than this.
• The advice on Kings and Icons not lasting is correct and from the sounds of it you will be daily driving this and want things to last so Bilstein, OME, or Ironman foamcells are your best bet.
• For future goals, one thing at a time. Buy the springs and parts that suit your truck now or you're going to be lifted too much and your ride quality will be terrible.

Take a step back on some of these thoughts. 35s are definitely cool but you really don't need them. Even on 33s these trucks can handle some crazy terrain that most people wouldn't want to take their rig on. What my truck can do with just a lift, tires, and skids. To do 35s right is a $7-10k cost in just parts all day long. Keep it mild or you're going to kill your wallet and not be happy with what you end up with. If you're interested in wheeling check out the NOVA land cruiser club.

Also this video and others on his videos can teach you a lot about what's best when picking suspension, higher lifts are not it.

Gotcha, so if I want to stay under 2.5 as to not adversely effect the ride quality, what would you recommend as from your rad video shows this thing is an absolute Billy Goat?
Oh and by the way we share the same Nordic Blue. I have my eyes on Method MR305 NV 17x8.5 0, KO2. I also agree that I should setup my springs for what I have on now instead of what I intend to have in the future. Thanks and look forward to hitting the trails with you.

 

[MudSlanger]

Welcome to NOVA! To provide some thoughts below:

• Why do you want 35s if you're not doing really serious wheeling? Not only will your MPGs take a big hit, tires are more expensive, you'll need to regear which costs thousands, 35s force you to buy new wheels to fit them, and you'll still most likely have fitment issues and rubbing in the end. Its not just a BMC and hammering pinch welds, fitting a 35 properly depends hugely on the tire size and rim backspacing as well as how you align the truck.
• If you get the factory 6500lbs hitch for towing even a 33 will not fit under the car without rubbing your panhard bar. I have heard almost nothing good long term from people with the hatch mounted spare tire aside from some people who like the becky system but for that price just get a bumper.
• If you lift more than about 2.5" you're going to take a big ride quality hit as well since you're going to have zero available down travel on your shocks. Don't go more than this.
• The advice on Kings and Icons not lasting is correct and from the sounds of it you will be daily driving this and want things to last so Bilstein, OME, or Ironman foamcells are your best bet.
• For future goals, one thing at a time. Buy the springs and parts that suit your truck now or you're going to be lifted too much and your ride quality will be terrible.

Take a step back on some of these thoughts. 35s are definitely cool but you really don't need them. Even on 33s these trucks can handle some crazy terrain that most people wouldn't want to take their rig on. What my truck can do with just a lift, tires, and skids. To do 35s right is a $7-10k cost in just parts all day long. Keep it mild or you're going to kill your wallet and not be happy with what you end up with. If you're interested in wheeling check out the NOVA land cruiser club.

Also this video and others on his videos can teach you a lot about what's best when picking suspension, higher lifts are not it.

So Bilsteins, what model? What springs or does it depend on the lift kit? How many inches and tire size would you recommend? Thanks in advance. I do not see myself exceeding the type of climbing that you did no that vid
thanks in advance
Cheers

 

[captainva]

Gotcha, so if I want to stay under 2.5 as to not adversely effect the ride quality, what would you recommend as from your rad video shows this thing is an absolute Billy Goat?
Oh and by the way we share the same Nordic Blue. I have my eyes on Method MR305 NV 17x8.5 0, KO2. I also agree that I should setup my springs for what I have on now instead of what I intend to have in the future. Thanks and look forward to hitting the trails with you.

Lots of people run those 17x8.5 +0mm or -10mm is the other common size. For 33s either of those should be fine. I'm running some sequoia wheels which are 17x8 +10mm I believe and only have minor rubbing on the frame rails at full lock with my 285x70x17 (32.8") mud tires but nothing you notice when driving. Getting the SPC UCAs are extremely important as they correct caster (which helps return the steering wheel to center) and allow you to align the factory adjusters to push the wheel back to the rear of the wheel well for more clearance.

So Bilsteins, what model? What springs or does it depend on the lift kit? How many inches and tire size would you recommend? Thanks in advance. I do not see myself exceeding the type of climbing that you did no that vid
thanks in advance
Cheers

I built my truck to wheel but it was the wifes DD as well for a long time. I got an LS430 and now she drives that since the GX has gotten so beat up and something minor has happened/broken every trip. I personally like Bilstens because of their digressive damping curve (more initial force to move them then softer as they move) which on road soaks up all of the huge bumps and helps (a tiny bit) with body roll but at the expense of feeling more of the minor imperfections in the road. If you're more of a riding on a cloud kinda guy the OME nitrochragers or Ironman foamcells are where you should be looking. If you want Bilsten I would go 6112 front (with 600 or 650lbs springs) since they're a larger 2.5" shock and will last longer with 5100s rear. You could also go 5100s front which I ended up with because of supply chain during covid and they've been totally fine. If you go the 5100 front route they have 4 positions for circlips to adjust your ride height and compress a spring more. You can use your factory springs at a higher setting or buy longer springs (alldogs offroad was super helpful with this or exit offroad as well) and use a lower one. If you're not thinking of a which of bumper you want light duty springs. For the rear I personally like progressive springs since they provide more comfort and the spring rate gets higher as they compress so you can load more without the truck bottoming out. The best here are Dobinson's C59-675V. Come to the CLCC monthly meeting at Kilroys in Springfield on 8/3 and I'll have my truck there if you're interested.

 

[MudSlanger]

Lots of people run those 17x8.5 +0mm or -10mm is the other common size. For 33s either of those should be fine. I'm running some sequoia wheels which are 17x8 +10mm I believe and only have minor rubbing on the frame rails at full lock with my 285x70x17 (32.8") mud tires but nothing you notice when driving. Getting the SPC UCAs are extremely important as they correct caster (which helps return the steering wheel to center) and allow you to align the factory adjusters to push the wheel back to the rear of the wheel well for more clearance.



I built my truck to wheel but it was the wifes DD as well for a long time. I got an LS430 and now she drives that since the GX has gotten so beat up and something minor has happened/broken every trip. I personally like Bilstens because of their digressive damping curve (more initial force to move them then softer as they move) which on road soaks up all of the huge bumps and helps (a tiny bit) with body roll but at the expense of feeling more of the minor imperfections in the road. If you're more of a riding on a cloud kinda guy the OME nitrochragers or Ironman foamcells are where you should be looking. If you want Bilsten I would go 6112 front (with 600 or 650lbs springs) since they're a larger 2.5" shock and will last longer with 5100s rear. You could also go 5100s front which I ended up with because of supply chain during covid and they've been totally fine. If you go the 5100 front route they have 4 positions for circlips to adjust your ride height and compress a spring more. You can use your factory springs at a higher setting or buy longer springs (alldogs offroad was super helpful with this or exit offroad as well) and use a lower one. If you're not thinking of a which of bumper you want light duty springs. For the rear I personally like progressive springs since they provide more comfort and the spring rate gets higher as they compress so you can load more without the truck bottoming out. The best here are Dobinson's C59-675V. Come to the CLCC monthly meeting at Kilroys in Springfield on 8/3 and I'll have my truck there if you're interested.

Man I wish I could pull that off, just got the ride back from the Pohanka dealer were they fleeced me on the timing belt, water pump, etc.. service, I am heading out to a few camp grounds in the Shenandoah mountains by some lakes which should take us to North Carolina were we are cutting across to wrap it up in OBX.
After settling on the Lift kit I still need to get the under carriage rust treated just not to sure what to treat it with after wiring off some of the surface rust.
As for the wheels and tires I do want to go as big as I can with out sacrificing too much ride quality.
I know you said you got 285/70/17. I would like to go a little bigger just not sure what that is right now. I'll try and see if I can go 315,70/17 or 295/75/17. I'm also curious if I can install either of these tires and run them on stock suspension while I'm on my camping trip.

Thanks for your feedback and am totally looking forward to running into you in town. I'm in Catharpin VA.

Erik

 

[captainva]

Man that sounds like its going to be a fun trip. If you have those wheels with more offset, with stock suspension you might be able to fit a 285/70/17. Anything taller or wider with stock suspension is going to rub something for sure or will require a BMC/trimming. The biggest thing about larger tires is that it effects braking and you'll need to regear or your engine is going to be lugging/downshifting all the time. I know some people have run stock gears with 35s but it makes the truck slow. You can feel it even with 33s

 

[eL PeReZ eSe]

Keep your tire size to no more than 33. That sizes you mentioned are 34.4" tires and will not fit with that setup. I'm running 265/70R18 (32.6") with the Bilstein 5100s and Dobinsons progressive springs mentioned and I got only a hair of clearance from everything. Unless you want to pull the trigger on your wishes and get sorry later, take the advice given above.

 

[MudSlanger]

Gents,

I'll take the advise, no need to hit me head against the wall

You rock this site is incredibly helpful. Cruiser Outfitters were totally cool and they even said I should consider the other two options Captainva mentioned.
I was not able to fit in the tire swap as these tires are not available were I was looking.
Are the 33/12.5/17 KO2 the same as the 285/70/17? Seems like the prior are a bit more wider and understanding that these tires will be on after my lift is installed. It also seems more expensive and do I need to get the E for load tires?

Cheers!

 

[eL PeReZ eSe]

No pun intended. I use tiresize.com to make comparisons. 33/12.5 are like a 1.3" wider than 285/70. all manufacturers take measurements different, so it could be slightly more or less. E load tires are too stiff for daily driving. that's my two cents.

 

[Banandalorian]

Gents,

I'll take the advise, no need to hit me head against the wall

You rock this site is incredibly helpful. Cruiser Outfitters were totally cool and they even said I should consider the other two options Captainva mentioned.
I was not able to fit in the tire swap as these tires are not available were I was looking.
Are the 33/12.5/17 KO2 the same as the 285/70/17? Seems like the prior are a bit more wider and understanding that these tires will be on after my lift is installed. It also seems more expensive and do I need to get the E for load tires?

Cheers!

E load rated tires have very stiff sidewalls and you'll take a pretty big hit to ride quality. The extra thick sidewalls do provide a extra safeguard against punctures while rock crawling but most modern AT/MT/RT tires have reinforced sidewalls regardless of load rating.

 

[captainva]

33/12.5 will be too wide without a BMC and trimming. Unless you're towing or going through rocks you want C rated tires. My MTs are C rated and I haven't had issues...yet

 

[MudSlanger]

Just got back from camping along the Shenandoah mountains and wrapped it up in OBX - Hatteras Island.
For situational awareness, I had just picked up my 2008 GX470 dubbed "Valkyrie" by my 14 yr old co-pilot/navigator and had it serviced by local (Pohanka) Lexus dealer and checked out before our trip.

I have an appointment to have the under carriage treated for rust this weekend. I'm not sure if I want to also take it to Line-X for further under carriage protection from rust.

Either way thanks to the information provided by you all, I am pricing:
Bilstein 6112 strut and spring assembled - Front
5160 adjustable w/reservoir - Rear
Icon Rear Coil Conversion Kit w/Dobinson's C59-675V springs
Specialty SPC Adjustable Upper Control Arm

 

[captainva]

Good choices for what you'll be using the truck for. You could also look at the EIM Keith panhard correction bracket. That fixes the geometry to bring the bar back to flat after you lift and will help it feel more stable on the highway. You would need to get someone to weld that in though

 

[MudSlanger]

Good choices for what you'll be using the truck for. You could also look at the EIM Keith panhard correction bracket. That fixes the geometry to bring the bar back to flat after you lift and will help it feel more stable on the highway. You would need to get someone to weld that in though

That is really helpful to know, thank you!