Not-stock carburetor issue: Electric choke (1 Viewer)

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Feb 15, 2011
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Location
Richardson, TX
Hi guys, A soon as I tell my drinking buddy that I am working on an old TLC, he says "I have an old Land Cruiser!"

After a few more 'ritas, we hatch a plan for me to earn some $$ by getting it running again. It has been sitting in a barn for four years, which is about 20 years less than mine had been sitting. I have been spending most of spring break working on his heap (no compression) and his FJ40.

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I rebuilt the carb, a Weber 32/36 series with an electric choke. The engine runs great, but I don't know how to appropriately get the choke wired up. Any ideas? The PO had the choke wired with a jumper coming off of the ignition-to-coil wire straight to the choke. Does this seem like it would work correctly? I am skeptical, but the current owner claims to have driven this rig regularly before the electric gremlins stopped it from running altogether.

I am using the diagrams from post #21in this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/259386-1971-fj40-wiring-diagram-2.html

I don't see anything for electric choke in the diagrams, and I am pretty sure that the choke knob in the dash (with cable clipped off) was for a manual choke, like my '67 has.

Anyway, I hope the picture was big enough for you all. I'm sure I'll ask for more help as I chase the random wires down (next stop: aftermarket turn signal/hazard switch + non-functioning headlights).
 
Yes that should work. It needs anything that is hot when ignition is on for the electric choke to work. You also have to push the pedal to the floor once before starting to engage the choke (at least that is how my weber 38 works).
 
It is better to wire it to the white/red stripe wire at the voltage regulator. The reason is you don't want to have anything else wired to your coil that might short out while you are driving and the ignition wire is not fused.
 
Yes that should work. It needs anything that is hot when ignition is on for the electric choke to work. You also have to push the pedal to the floor once before starting to engage the choke (at least that is how my weber 38 works).

I am having the same problem with my weber 34/36. I had not heard about the push the accelerator to the floor before starting it. Also my PO wired mine in with what looks like aa 18 guage wire...Is that enough wire for that task? or should it me a heavier guage?
 
I ran mine to the ignition switch with a fuse in between to protect the circuit. I run an aftermarket internal regulator one wire alternator (GM). Runs great via the ignition switch - powered only when the switch is on.
 

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