Not cooling my seat enough (re: seat cooling) (1 Viewer)

[r2m]

I received my 3D printed air duct re-router. I will install once I am able. I was flayed open a week ago for hernia repair surgery and I can barely get into the vehicle for now

I believe they tell you the heaviest thing you should be lifting right now is 16 oz (can or bottle) of your favorite beverage.

 

[kpz1234]

Just got my 3D printed seat vents. Probably won't be able to render an opinion for a bit as it was 32* this morning...

 

[kpz1234]

So I would warn anyone buying these... they are EXTREMELY fragile. I broke both of them while trying to put them on, and since I broke the first one, I was being gentle with the second one. The 3D printing is just not strong enough for any kind of force whatsoever. In fact, if something slid under the seat into the vents, they would probably break as well. I put them on anyway... full max floor cooling and felt nothing. I think this is a wild goose chase, the seat venting is not done properly enough to make a difference. As far as the vents go, I think if they were made from carbon fiber they would be more durable.

 

[GrizzlyClint]

So I would warn anyone buying these... they are EXTREMELY fragile. I broke both of them while trying to put them on, and since I broke the first one, I was being gentle with the second one. The 3D printing is just not strong enough for any kind of force whatsoever. In fact, if something slid under the seat into the vents, they would probably break as well. I put them on anyway... full max floor cooling and felt nothing. I think this is a wild goose chase, the seat venting is not done properly enough to make a difference. As far as the vents go, I think if they were made from carbon fiber they would be more durable.

All depends on the material. You can get some decently strong CF or even PLA+ that should survive the install providing the material thickness is enough. If it's pair thin it just ain't gonna cut it.

Paging the expert @r2m

 

[Acrad]

I printed mine with PETG.. no issues … I did have to resize the print

#3D #Printing and GX 460 parts - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion

GX - 2nd Gen (2010-2023) - ??? #3D #Printing and GX 460 parts - Surely many in this group have 3D printers... I finally decided to dive into one. I've been playing around with a new Prusa Mini (https://www.prusa3d.com/category/original-prusa-mini/)+ manufactured in the Czech Republic. I hadn't...

www.clublexus.com

 

[re_guderian]

Yeah, I think the whole effort is based on a losing design. and summer's coming...

 

[GrizzlyClint]

I'm hoping I can still engineer a redneck science solution. I gotta have my craw cooled ya know? The factory ventilation only flows out of the front of the seat bottom whereas MOPARs seem to do the entire seat bottom. I'll start small but I mean if I have to figure out how to redesign the seat track / mount to swap in another seat from another vehicle so bet it. I WILL solve this problem eventually.

 

[r2m]

I printed mine with PETG.. no issues … I did have to resize the print

#3D #Printing and GX 460 parts - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion

GX - 2nd Gen (2010-2023) - ??? #3D #Printing and GX 460 parts - Surely many in this group have 3D printers... I finally decided to dive into one. I've been playing around with a new Prusa Mini (https://www.prusa3d.com/category/original-prusa-mini/)+ manufactured in the Czech Republic. I hadn't...

www.clublexus.com

PETG is my goto filament. Don't even use PLA as it's too brittle and can't handle heat. I have PETG really dialed in on my Creality K1 Max so all my prints come off great. And PETG is darn near the same price as PLA on Amazon.
Regarding the vents, I'd say Acrad has it right to use PETG. PETG is a little more flexible without snapping and can handle higher heat.
One last note is that how strong a part is depends upon how you orient your part on the build plate. Example: if you're printing a rod vertical on the build plate, considering that the print head does layer upon layer stacking, you'll have very weak beam strength on the rod. If you print it flat on the build plate with the print layers running the entire length of the rod, your beam strength will be much stronger.
So if you're printing your own vents and they're not holding up, try using PETG (as Acrad had) and change the orientation of the print on the build plate of your printer, maybe tilt it 15º or so. Yeah, you may use more supports but it may also be stronger.

 

[kpz1234]

A buddy of mine had a thing that clipped over a Crown Vic vent, routed through a hose to cool under his body armor. Perhaps more a "forced" air system using a housing over the floor vent, to a hose that goes up into the seat fan could work?

CoolCop Crown Victoria - https://coolcop.com/products/coolcop-crown-victoria (just for reference).

 

[TheNomad]

PETG is my goto filament. Don't even use PLA as it's too brittle and can't handle heat. I have PETG really dialed in on my Creality K1 Max so all my prints come off great. And PETG is darn near the same price as PLA on Amazon.
Regarding the vents, I'd say Acrad has it right to use PETG. PETG is a little more flexible without snapping and can handle higher heat.
One last note is that how strong a part is depends upon how you orient your part on the build plate. Example: if you're printing a rod vertical on the build plate, considering that the print head does layer upon layer stacking, you'll have very weak beam strength on the rod. If you print it flat on the build plate with the print layers running the entire length of the rod, your beam strength will be much stronger.
So if you're printing your own vents and they're not holding up, try using PETG (as Acrad had) and change the orientation of the print on the build plate of your printer, maybe tilt it 15º or so. Yeah, you may use more supports but it may also be stronger.

Have you used much carbon fiber impregnated nylon? I've got mostly PLA and ABS at work and we do have a CF nylon I want to try. I've not tested PLA but I wonder if summer 115 temps in a closed car would be enough to wilt/bend. I used a heat gun briefly on a thick item of PLA and was shocked how rubbery it got.

 

[r2m]

Have you used much carbon fiber impregnated nylon? I've got mostly PLA and ABS at work and we do have a CF nylon I want to try. I've not tested PLA but I wonder if summer 115 temps in a closed car would be enough to wilt/bend. I used a heat gun briefly on a thick item of PLA and was shocked how rubbery it got.

I have some nylon but have not used it yet. Never tried CF nylon yet.
Yes PLA will most likely deform as it gets warmer. PLA only prints at a low temp of 180° - 220° C. Need to remember that the bottom of the seat is near the transmission so it gets a little warmer down there.
Using PC nylon would be great! Printing CF nylon 265° - 285° C will never get soft or deform unless your rig is on fire!