Non CO2 On Board Air Ideas - For FAQ

[Romer]

I added the CO2 on board mounting air ideas to the FAQ.

This thread is to post your onboard air ideas that don't use CO2.

Please describe your setup, how you installed it and any other particulars someone might need to know if they wanted to do the same.

Also, include any lessons learned and the performance of your system

I will add this to the FAQ.

 

[Romer]

Here is a link to Peebles24 Tsunami air thread

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=75520

 

[Junk]

Romer,
I don't have it on my 80, but several folks have set up sanden compressors utilizing the pulley from the TRD blower kit. I'm sure other cheaper sources of pulleys are available - but a project like that may interest a few.

 

[Romer]

Romer,
I don't have it on my 80, but several folks have set up sanden compressors utilizing the pulley from the TRD blower kit. I'm sure other cheaper sources of pulleys are available - but a project like that may interest a few.

It would be great if you know someone who has this, to ask them post it up here.

 

[locrwln1]

Alia176 put a York compressor on his rig. You definitely need to get him to do the write up, he already took the pictures.

 

[Biff]

I use my ARB compressor w/ the sliders as aux. air tanks. The sliders give me between 2-4psi(don't know the exact capacity)I mostly use this setup to keep my compressor from cycling to often. I used three air lines one from each slider to a T connection and a third to run to the Slee manifold aux. air slot. Sorry I don't have recent pics.


ARB compressor-if I'm really patient I can fill up all four of my 33's-good thing this setup is a backup only because i"m not that patient.

I use the aux. plug on the left to connect the sliders to the compressor

Air Tap for slider

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Once I get the bracket fab'ed up the Yorks going on.

 

[John E Davies]

Once I get the bracket fab'ed up the Yorks going on.

How are you planning on draining the water from the frame mounted air tank? It will gradually fill with condensation and water will start blowing out the air hose whenever you fill a tire or try to run an air tool.

Can you weld on a drain bung at the lowest spot, with a flush pipe plug?.....

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

To be honest, I did not think about that. However after your comment, I'm planning on putting a water separator after the pump and before the tank. That should be okay.

But I might add the bung for a safe measure.

 

[Aussie cruiser]

The big red was originally under the bonnet but it was too hot for it. So it was moved to the small tool compartment in the cargo area. The tank was a compressed air tank scavenged from work it was an out of date BA tank (Breathing apparatus) that was going to be dumped. I drilled and tapped threads into the side walls for the fittings. It gets used for the tyres and the diff lock. The tank is mounted behind the bull bar

 

[alia176]

Here's my OBA system. Rather than diluting this post with bunch of pics, I'm including links to my photo site for your pleasure. Included are a couple of pics to wet your appetite!

Components:

-York air compressor being driven by a Range Rover 3.9L V8 (eek!) pulley welded in front of the H20 pump pulley. Link
I carefully cut the actual V groove ring off of the LR pulley and welded it to the water pump pulley in four places.
The viability of using a supercharger pulley makes this project pointless due to the high cost of the pulley.

-Quickair 2 electric air compressor as a backup. This was installed previously so I didn't take it out. A 3-way switch is used to determine which air comp to use.
link
-an estimated 2.5 gal air tank out of the same RR that was used for their EAS system. quality coalescing filter, check valve, 150 psi pop off valve, many quick connect fittings link
-3/8" air brake hose (DOT approved, higher temp ratings, etc) going to the front mounted air tank (under winch), air manifold under hood (as pictured) front and rear air quick disconnects.

-1/4" air brake hose goes from the air manifold to both sliders.

-York port fittings and a 10' of high temp hose for York purchased from Kilby Enterprises
-Air pressure switch 80/105 from Sun Performance (purchased with the QA2 air comp years ago)

Mechanicals:

-The fresh air for the York is pulled out from the "bottom" of the OEM air filter canister. This accomplishes two things - fresh, cool, dry air and reduces the "chugga chugga" noise. link-Either compressor turns on at 80 psig and shuts off at 105 psig. There are higher shut off pressure switches out there, however, a max system pressure of 105 psi of air is tolerated by ARB lockers and my air tools. Hence, I don't need a separate air press regulator.

-Both sliders are drilled and tapped for 1/8" NPT to accept quick connect fittings. They also have a threaded plug at the other end for liquid drainage (need to park uphill beforehand!).
link
-The air tank is mounted to brackets that're welded in between the front chassis rails. Idea was stolen from George!
link

-The ARB solenoids are attached to the black air manifold with adapters that go from BSP to 1/8" NPT.

link
-Bracket for York was engineered jointly by myself and Silviu on this board. He plans on marketing these things.
-There's a "unloader valve" that's before the coalescing filter. This relieves all air pressure in the outlet air line. The compressor always gets to start up w/o any head pressure. Your home air comp has the same exact thing. You hear a "shooosh" after each time the air comp shuts down. This sound comes out of this unloader valve. link
Performance:

-The York compressor is much faster than the QA2 and runs quieter. You have to really listen to hear the York run. A high temp hose is a must for the outlet of the York as it can get very hot. However, in my case this hasn't happened yet. I did a similar install using a Sanden unit in my RR and that hose got HOT!
-If both sliders and the air tank are full, then an entire week of locking/unlocking ARBs at Moab can be accomplished w/o the York turning on.
-Heat kills air compressors. So, I generally fill up my system before starting on a road trip to take advantage of the cool temps under hood. This will become handy when I install that Locomotive air horn
-The QA2 air compressor did great for 32" tires. But, inflating 285 75 16s at the end of the day taxed this little compressor too much. It was already hot from the under hood temp and got even hotter trying to inflate the 33" tires.
-When inflating tires with the York, you can actually "hear" the air rushing into the tires; similar to a home air compressor.
-Output of the York can be increased by varying the idle (using the hand throttle).
-Even with plugging the oiling port in the York, my coalescing filter manages to trap some oil in the air.

Hope this answers all of your questions!

Cheers,

Ali

<edit> the clear tubes in the following picture are NOT D.O.T. approved air brake hose! I have replaced all clear hoses with 1/4" D.O.T. hoses after this picture was taken.

 

[cpg]

Very nice job
Thanks for sharing

 

[Beowulf]

If you have problems with air leaks you might get better success by using a liquid thread sealer like this from Permatex.

My pressure switch is 80/120 psi and the higher pressures were causing problems with the teflon tape. I kept fighting with leaks until I started using this stuff. It's about $12 for a small tube. A system like mine and Ali's has a LOT of fittings and places where leaks can cause headaches.

Ali,
How is your unloader valve activated and do you have a recommended source? I'm not using one at this time and I think the compressor would have an easier life if I had one in the system. Is yours located right before the input to the primary tank? I have a check valve close to the output of the compressor. Would that double as an unloader?

-B-

 

[alia176]

Ali,
How is your unloader valve activated and do you have a recommended source? I'm not using one at this time and I think the compressor would have an easier life if I had one in the system. Is yours located right before the input to the primary tank? I have a check valve close to the output of the compressor. Would that double as an unloader?

-B-

Thanks for the heads up on that paste. Luckily, I haven't experienced any leaks...yet!

The check valve won't act as an unloader due to the fact that it doesn't relieve the air pressure between it and the air comp. However, if you had an old air compressor, then the air would leak down anyway. But your Tsunami is new so it'll prolly hold the air for a long time.

An unloader acts as a check valve AND a depressurizer. You can find this valve at most places that carry home air comp parts. Another great source is my favorite place, McMastercarr.

The valve is activated by the air comp output. So, a little swoosh is heard right before the valve is engaged and all air is put into the primary tank. The filter/separator is after this valve and before the primary tank. I did this so that even w/o the air comp running, the air lines after the unloader valve stays pressurized which can be used to purge the coalescing filter manually.

Hope I didn't confuse you further!

Ali

 

[Beowulf]

Is the unloader valve activated with DC current or air pressure?

The manual with the Tsunami says it has a restart pressure of 150psi and a max output pressure of 120psi. I agree with you that the unloader valve would be a good addition to the system.
-B-

 

[alia176]

The unloader is activated with air pressure.

 

[loquito]

so if you have 95psi in a closed system and you let it sit for 12hrs is loosing 10psi a problem. I used some push in fittings, all of my screw on fittings are tight. I could not find any leaks with soapy water spray.
Is a small lose of psi normal?

 

[alia176]

so if you have 95psi in a closed system and you let it sit for 12hrs is loosing 10psi a problem. I used some push in fittings, all of my screw on fittings are tight. I could not find any leaks with soapy water spray.
Is a small lose of psi normal?

Your system is fine. Chances are that the air is back feeding through your compressor and then leaking out of the air intake side. The piston rings are probably made of plastic or reed valves of some sort and they don't seal well. I wouldn't worry too much about it!

cheers,

Ali

 

[John E Davies]

air manifold under hood (as pictured) front and rear air quick disconnects.

Ali - that is a very impressive and professional system. Do you mind giving us a source for some of the components, especially that slick anodized manifold at the fender?

Thanks.

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

[alia176]

air manifold under hood (as pictured) front and rear air quick disconnects.

Ali - that is a very impressive and professional system. Do you mind giving us a source for some of the components, especially that slick anodized manifold at the fender?

Thanks.

John Davies
Spokane WA

John,

Glad you like it! Most of my hardware came from http://www.mcmaster.com/. go to page 178 for various sizes of this manifold. My particular one has two 1/4" NPT holes on the ends and eight 1/8" NPT holes on the front. Page 166 has lots of quick connect fittings. The D.O.T. air brake hoses came from a Peterbilt truck dealer/parts store. Lastly, the York air compressor came from a vintage Volvo 240DL. This is the middle capacity of the three types of York air compressors that people are using.

It's important to have a good quality air hose due to the high underhood temps. These hoses have a high burst pressure, but more importantly, they are high heat resistant. I bought the 1/4" hoses at pennies/ft so buy lots of hose if you can.

Couple of others things worth mentioning. You can go 3/8" all around but this hose is harder to work with and has a higher bending radius. When it comes to inflating tires, your valve stem is the bottle neck. Regardless of how much press and flow you have in your system, you can only inflate tires at one speed. Unless of course you remove the valve stem each time but that's a PITA.

I didn't get any fancy stainless steel or D.O.T. approved air quick fittings due to their cost. The non DOT ones work fine and can handle under hood temps adequately.

Cheers,

Ali