Noise from 4.88s?

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Now I feel like I’m in over my head.

What’s “cryo” and what’s “building 3rds”, ffs?
 
Now I feel like I’m in over my head.

What’s “cryo” and what’s “building 3rds”, ffs?

It treats the metal to around -300F. This changes the structure of the metal, making it harder and stronger.

3rds are what the diff sits in, the easily removable part of the axles.

Here's a rear, the front looks a lot different but similar concept... kinda

24-11069-SkuImage.jpg
 
If that is a rear, find a new ARB installer :D
(That is a HP front)

200 Rear diff aka 3rd aka chunk
20171026_230001.jpg
 
Just typed 3rd member rear into google images as an example

I joke because some installers don't know the difference and thus send the air line out the bottom of the diff :eek:

Bad_ARB_Install_1.jpeg
 
It happens more often then one would hope when non-LC shops service a diff. They assume low pinion and route out the "top", this was a local one. At least they caught it before they installed completely.

Bad_ARB_Install_3.jpg
 
You're definitely in the grey zone. Not modified enough to need 4.88 all the time, but if you tow enough, then it starts to matter more. I would recommend just driving around with the transmission limited to 5th gear (S5) that is exactly what 4.88s produce. I essentially moves every gear, down one. If you are happy when towing and not towing limiting to 5th gear, the decision is easy, do 4.88s. If you don't like it when not towing, then don't re gear, and when you do tow, just know you always have to shift to S5.

@Roy Park, just pulled up my receipt from 300 below. It was $136.50 to cryo front and rear rings and pinions and all six bearings. Then $50 more to ship it back to East Coast Gear Supply where they built the 3rds.

Go 300 below - I went to school with the owners son, good people, good product.
 
So far I'm liking S5...maybe I should have just stuck with that...

Had another local shop tell me there might be a whiny noise after install.

He also said I'd need a programmer for the speedometer and to keep all the warning lights from flashing.
 
So far I'm liking S5...maybe I should have just stuck with that...

Had another local shop tell me there might be a whiny noise after install.

He also said I'd need a programmer for the speedometer and to keep all the warning lights from flashing.
I’m really not feeling your local shops. Reguradless of the fact that a speedo recalibration doesn’t exist for our trucks, even if it did, it would never result in dash warning lights.

Why you are going to keep hearing the whole “whiny” noise comment is because there was the old idea that anything over 4.10 spun too fast and would make noise.

It’s just not the case for today’s higher quality gear sets, properly installed and broken in.

Personally I would have East Coast Gear Supply or Just Diffeeential or Zuk build the 3rds, then have a local shop that seems to not really know how our trucks work do the simple pulling 3rd and putting them back in.

I know it’s convinent to have one shop do everything, but don’t rush to failure, especially when these shops are not exactly exuding much knowledge.
 
Bear in mind that you’re dealing with a mechanically disinclined person:

1. Find a shop to take the differential apart.

2. Ship the 3rds and the Nitro Gears to one of the places you mentioned. I ordered the gears from JustDifferentials.

3. When they’re shipped back have them reinstalled.

Man, that sounds pricey, especially since this is my daily driver so I’d have to get a rental for what, a month at least?

I’m genuinely surprised that there aren’t more options locally for a one stop shop that knows how it’s done.
 
Bear in mind that you’re dealing with a mechanically disinclined person:

1. Find a shop to take the differential apart.

2. Ship the 3rds and the Nitro Gears to one of the places you mentioned. I ordered the gears from JustDifferentials.

3. When they’re shipped back have them reinstalled.

Man, that sounds pricey, especially since this is my daily driver so I’d have to get a rental for what, a month at least?

I’m genuinely surprised that there aren’t more options locally for a one stop shop that knows how it’s done.
Wait so is Yotamasters giving you this info? That doesn’t sound like them. I spoke to them about gears for my Tundra. Then I made the mistake of going to a shop that was willing to do it for less.
 
No, Yotamasters mentioned the longevity bit. They did quote $1,600. Is that reasonable?
 
No, Yotamasters mentioned the longevity bit. They did quote $1,600. Is that reasonable?
Yeah. They told me the same bit. I’m not that worried about longevity. I’d go with them if you’re in SoCal. If I do gears on the LC, that’s who I’m going to. In fact, I may have them inspect the work of the other shop too.
 
Yeah, $1600 is fair. SoCal folks are also "only" 5-6 hours from Valley Hybrids in Stockton if you're not feeling local places for invasive surgery.
 

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