No start condition

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Dec 14, 2008
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I've been chasing down an intermittent no start condition that first started out with the 100 starting fine, no issues, but after running for 15+ mins in weather where the temp was 40•F or lower it would not restart unless I waited a good hour or more. Once the weather warmed up the condition went away, but in the meantime I had replaced the fuel pump and filter. Also tested the fuel pump relay and EFI fuse with known good ones. Cleaned both the MAF and throttle body. Cruiser had been running great (starting every time) with this warmer weather the last month or so. I went out two weeks ago to start and the cruiser will not start at all now. It will crank but will no longer start.
 
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Another member was having a problem like yours and wasn't getting any communication with the ecu with Techstream. He had a loose ground connection on the back of the engine.
 
Another member was having a problem like yours and wasn't getting any communication with the ecu with Techstream. He had a loose ground connection on the back of the engine.

Thanks @Mauser will check out the grounds, again. I think I may have read that thread - I think I've read them all in the last few weeks o_O - appreciate it.
 
There is a chance your ecu is bad. There is a slight chance I could have one that I could send you to try out. I have run across 2 bad ecus this year so far and one was on a 2002.
 
Quick update - tore through a bunch of items/testing yesterday including some coil packs, and corresponding spark plugs. Tested resistance on camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor. Both tested fine in the cold range for resistance. Happened to purchase a crankshaft position sensor (90919-05035) from @medtro last week since he had one - tested that resistance and it also measured good (2145) vs the original one (1986). Since I had the old one out, figured I'd toss in the new one just to see and the cruiser fired right up. Never got a code for the crankshaft sensor. So this fixes the newest no start condition, not sure if it will fix the unable to restart right away during cold weather. Unrelated, I have no idea how people get that sensor out easily - that is one tight spot to reach and try to remove the sensor, even though the manual makes it look ezpz :).
 
Interesting... I want to say that I was looking through videos on YouTube and found one where a guy had a similar issue and was chasing the rabbit only to find the same issue. Wonder why it was not throwing a code? Or possibly it was throwing a code but due to comms issue you weren't seeing.
 
I've been chasing down an intermittent no start condition that first started out with the 100 starting fine, no issues, but after running for 15+ mins in weather where the temp was 40•F or lower it would not restart unless I waited a good hour or more. Once the weather warmed up the condition went away, but in the meantime I had replaced the fuel pump and filter. Also tested the fuel pump relay and EFI fuse with known good ones. Cleaned both the MAF and throttle body. Cruiser had been running great (starting every time) with this warmer weather the last month or so. I went out two weeks ago to start and the cruiser will not start at all now. It will crank but will no longer start. Was able to pull codes at first (both banks of coils showing up all at once P1305 up to P1340). Scan gauge now sometimes shows not ready. I have two batteries, so I always put a fresh one in to work with after recharging a battery off of the vehicle, so I have a good battery, at least, to try and troubleshoot with. Hooked up techstream today, which has worked in the past with the cruiser and works with the Prius - and get no communication showing now. Any tips on how to proceed, please? :) Thanks for any tips/help.

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First thing it makes me think of is corrosion. Check body, starter, and battery grounds and positive cables. Sand the terminals and butt connectors, apply dialectric grease, and reconnect. Then look for corrosion at all other terminations and connectors.
 
Interesting... I want to say that I was looking through videos on YouTube and found one where a guy had a similar issue and was chasing the rabbit only to find the same issue. Wonder why it was not throwing a code? Or possibly it was throwing a code but due to comms issue you weren't seeing.

Yeah, still not sure - scan gauge is reading codes, again, but it never threw a code for the crank sensor - but will see if it comes back shortly :rolleyes:....
 
First thing it makes me think of is corrosion. Check body, starter, and battery grounds and positive cables. Sand the terminals and butt connectors, apply dialectric grease, and reconnect. Then look for corrosion at all other terminations and connectors.

Will continue to check these out, though not sure on the starter - can't really see even with a scope back there, starter was replaced 5 years ago, but agree on checking it out. thx.
 
Dammit! I should have thought of the crank sensor. Now I am remembering another thread like this about a year ago where the guy had identical problems. Ended up being the doggone crank sensor. Burned in my memory now hopefully.
 
Dammit! I should have thought of the crank sensor. Now I am remembering another thread like this about a year ago where the guy had identical problems. Ended up being the doggone crank sensor. Burned in my memory now hopefully.
Right!!! Trying to file all these little nuggets aware so that I don't start chasing my tail IF something like this happens and I suddenly have to go down the rabbit hole.
 
Doesn't the search function serve that purpose? I know my two brain cells can only hold so much information at one time.
 
Is there any way to test for this to confirm? My car is sitting in the driveway with crank/no-start and this seems to be one of the potential issues.

"Not when you have to read 25 pages on a dozen threads each." - this is exactly what I just spent the last six hours doing only to get to it could be the crankshaft position sensor....maybe.
 
Is there any way to test for this to confirm? My car is sitting in the driveway with crank/no-start and this seems to be one of the potential issues.

"Not when you have to read 25 pages on a dozen threads each." - this is exactly what I just spent the last six hours doing only to get to it could be the crankshaft position sensor....maybe.

There is an ohm test that you can perform if you are referring to crankshaft position sensor. I don't have resistance specs for the test handy but you can find it from the FSM.
 
Is there any way to test for this to confirm? My car is sitting in the driveway with crank/no-start and this seems to be one of the potential issues.

"Not when you have to read 25 pages on a dozen threads each." - this is exactly what I just spent the last six hours doing only to get to it could be the crankshaft position sensor....maybe.

Check the wires that sit behind the harmonic balancer that go to the crank sensor. My sister just bought an LX a few weeks ago and the wire rubbed on the harmonic balancer and shorted.
 
Check the wires that sit behind the harmonic balancer that go to the crank sensor. My sister just bought an LX a few weeks ago and the wire rubbed on the harmonic balancer and shorted.
Yeah, I was just hoping not to have to strip it down all the way to the timing belt just to check.
 
I was able to see the wire from underneath with the skid plate pulled.
Ok, thanks. I'll check this out. Of course, in the event the wire is fine but the sensor is bad...I'm still out of luck without taking some of it apart huh? Or is it pretty unlikely that the sensor is bad instead of the wire?

And I just looked for any evidence of rubbing or exposed wiring? Is short term fix just to cover with electrical tape?
 
Is there any way to test for this to confirm? My car is sitting in the driveway with crank/no-start and this seems to be one of the potential issues.

"Not when you have to read 25 pages on a dozen threads each." - this is exactly what I just spent the last six hours doing only to get to it could be the crankshaft position sensor....maybe.
Any time I hear crank no start, the very first thing I want to check is the fuel delivery. The fuel relay in driver side D pillar (left side of the rear hatch) can go bad and will cause this too!
 

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