No Radio Power?
- Thread starter Mike6158
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You can buy connectors and completely redo them or just unpin and solder.
Mike6158
Random Pixel Generator
- Thread starter
- #23
Back when I was trying to build a test fixture for my amp I tried to find connectors of that style and I struck out. However, searching Digikey and Mouser may not have been the best sources... especially since I didn't know what to call them.
My LC is my only vehicle. I have a company pickup but I don't (can't) drive that for personal use. So when the LC is down because of something as mundane as a radio, it's a tad irritating. I've got to figure out where to put 3 ARB switches (Compressor, front locker, rear locker) and a dual battery controller / monitor. That and installing my ham rigs is priority at this point.
You've been a lot of help. You obviously know your stuff about stereo systems in the LC. I appreciate that you took the time to help me find the right wiring. I must not have had a good ground when I checked earlier this afternoon. I know I checked the same gray wire (I made notes) and it was 0.
The radio sounded good btw... other than the missing left channel thing. I think that's a wiring issue. I may end up taking the LC somewhere and having them install and amp and rewire the speakers. Idk... the one that didn't work is the only new one. If it hadn't had problems before I'd be tempted to blame it on Crutchfield (kidding!). Maybe I'll just go back to singing to myself
Mike6158
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- Thread starter
- #24
Well... my new (to me) amp arrived. It was not sold as for parts or any of the other listing tricks. In fact it's returnable. I plugged everything in (new harness, old amp small connecter) and the radio doesn't power up. I grounded the radio via the supplied black wire.
I'm going to try bolting the amp in (grounding issues?) and all that jazz... damn I'm tired of this radio bs...
I'm going to try bolting the amp in (grounding issues?) and all that jazz... damn I'm tired of this radio bs...
Mike6158
Random Pixel Generator
- Thread starter
- #25
The A connector, pin 7 and 16 are supposed to be tied to a 20A fused always on source... Neither connection will jump the required gap...I've said this from the beginning. The POS plug and play cable is not plug and play. The two wires I'm holding are supposed to be the 20A fused power supply connection for the amp.
The amp came with both plugs (wires cut off). If I understand what I'm seeing, "all I need to do" is jump two wires from the spare connector to the two wires that I'm holding and plug the spare connector into the amp. It would be even better if I could just pull them out and move them to the spare connector. So far I'm not having much luck with removing them
Mike6158
Random Pixel Generator
- Thread starter
- #26
I figured out how to pull the pins from the plug and insert them in the old plug that came with the amp. Well... "I" didn't... the internet did. It came from a Toyota service bulletin. I can't upload the file (8Mb) but here's a link:
https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf
The document doesn't make it easy to do but it does make it possible.
The amp now has power in all the right places. B1, B2, B3, and B9 as well as A7 and A16 have power on them. The radio doesn't turn on. I'll check at the radio tomorrow but since it doesn't turn on it's kind of obvious that power isn't getting there.
The power antenna doesn't move. So I thought "ah... I forgot the ground".... nope, the amp ground is intact.
Clearly I'm missing something. It's dark so I won't do anything else with it tonight. My seats are out. The console is out. I can either pull all this sh*t out and give up (not likely) and move forward or figure it out. Until I do... I have a Land Cruiser statue on my back porch. I feel like it's simple and I'm over (under?) thinking it.
Actually I left something out... I can wire the power direct to "somewhere". I want to use the fused connections from the factory so that the fuses do what they have always done, otherwise I would have already wired the power "somewhere". Doing that is a pita (for me). I don't use stak-ons aka crimp connecters and hauling a soldering iron out to the car isn't very convenient. I really don't like this option...
The next hurdle is going to be the power antenna. That is supposed to come from the radio via the harness. It doesn't work either.
https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf
The document doesn't make it easy to do but it does make it possible.
The amp now has power in all the right places. B1, B2, B3, and B9 as well as A7 and A16 have power on them. The radio doesn't turn on. I'll check at the radio tomorrow but since it doesn't turn on it's kind of obvious that power isn't getting there.
The power antenna doesn't move. So I thought "ah... I forgot the ground".... nope, the amp ground is intact.
Clearly I'm missing something. It's dark so I won't do anything else with it tonight. My seats are out. The console is out. I can either pull all this sh*t out and give up (not likely) and move forward or figure it out. Until I do... I have a Land Cruiser statue on my back porch. I feel like it's simple and I'm over (under?) thinking it.
Actually I left something out... I can wire the power direct to "somewhere". I want to use the fused connections from the factory so that the fuses do what they have always done, otherwise I would have already wired the power "somewhere". Doing that is a pita (for me). I don't use stak-ons aka crimp connecters and hauling a soldering iron out to the car isn't very convenient. I really don't like this option...
The next hurdle is going to be the power antenna. That is supposed to come from the radio via the harness. It doesn't work either.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Generally the radio power will signal to the antenna to activate. My aftermarket deck has a blade fuse on the back, have you checked it? Maybe it popped in all the amp wiring you've been doing.
Mike6158
Random Pixel Generator
- Thread starter
- #28
You were almost correct Trunk Monkey. I very slowly and methodically traced all of the wiring after lunch. I ultimately came to the conclusion that there was something wrong inside the amp. Everything was as it should be, except the always on power side.
Winner, winner, chicken dinner.
Look at what the tip of the screwdriver is pointed at. That is a 10A surface mount fuse. Less than 50 cents. Way cheaper than that in bulk. The amp came with a blown fuse. How did it get blown? My suspicion is that when they cut it out of the car, literally... they just whacked the wires off of the connectors, they cut the small (B) connector side first. and in the process of cutting the wires they got the hot and ground in one cut. The A connector always hot feeds the B side through the fuse.
To test my theory is just jumped across the fuse...
NO NO NO NO NO... NOT NO BUT HELL NO... NEVER JUMP A FUSE... EVER
So how did I test it. I used my ohm meter first and there was no continuity. Then, to see if that's all that was keeping the radio from turning on, I put my meter in current mode (Amps not Milliamps), swapped the plus lead over to the Amp connector, put the + lead on the supply side of the fuse and the negative lead on the "downstream" or radio side of the fuse and bingo... all was well.
Meter setup looks like this (excuse the messy bench, things to do there). When it was inline with the blown fuse the meter read about 500mA (1/2 A) which is within reason:
So I can just solder a jumper wire in there and call it good Uh... no... I have some fuses ordered.
What I can do is put the radio back in and close the dash part of this adventure up. The fuses will be here tomorrow or Saturday. It'll be a simple matter of putting it all back together and installing it in the car once the fuse is soldered in. I hope the antenna works. The wiring is there. I think it will.
I'm tempted to recap the amp while it's out, kind of preventative maintenance. 17 years is pushing electrolytic caps.
Onward through the fog.
Winner, winner, chicken dinner.
Look at what the tip of the screwdriver is pointed at. That is a 10A surface mount fuse. Less than 50 cents. Way cheaper than that in bulk. The amp came with a blown fuse. How did it get blown? My suspicion is that when they cut it out of the car, literally... they just whacked the wires off of the connectors, they cut the small (B) connector side first. and in the process of cutting the wires they got the hot and ground in one cut. The A connector always hot feeds the B side through the fuse.
To test my theory is just jumped across the fuse...
NO NO NO NO NO... NOT NO BUT HELL NO... NEVER JUMP A FUSE... EVERSo how did I test it. I used my ohm meter first and there was no continuity. Then, to see if that's all that was keeping the radio from turning on, I put my meter in current mode (Amps not Milliamps), swapped the plus lead over to the Amp connector, put the + lead on the supply side of the fuse and the negative lead on the "downstream" or radio side of the fuse and bingo... all was well.
Meter setup looks like this (excuse the messy bench, things to do there). When it was inline with the blown fuse the meter read about 500mA (1/2 A) which is within reason:
So I can just solder a jumper wire in there and call it good
Uh... no... I have some fuses ordered. What I can do is put the radio back in and close the dash part of this adventure up. The fuses will be here tomorrow or Saturday. It'll be a simple matter of putting it all back together and installing it in the car once the fuse is soldered in. I hope the antenna works. The wiring is there. I think it will.
I'm tempted to recap the amp while it's out, kind of preventative maintenance. 17 years is pushing electrolytic caps.
Onward through the fog.
Mike6158
Random Pixel Generator
- Thread starter
- #29
The surface mount 10A fuse arrived today. It took less than a minute to solder it in. Before I put the amp back in the case I took the board to the LC and plugged it in for a test. I'm glad that I don't have neighbors. They would have seen me laughing and jumping around like a crazy man. It worked.
All is reassembled, the radio radios, the antenna antennas (up and down). Life is good. The right front channel is still dead and I have 3 more speakers to install but right this second... all is wonderful in Landcruiserville. I can fix all of that stuff at my leisure.
The ARB switches went in yesterday. I put them in the overhead area.
I've got to find a place for the dual battery controller but I think that will be easy enough.
The iPhone cable is probably just going to sit on the console until I can install something like this in the "worthless area" near the ash tray.
I have a work trip to Farmington coming up (driving the LC) at the end of the week so I wont get any of the power wiring and Ham radio permanent mounting done but that's fine. The two big hurdles are over (until another one comes along).
Darn it... I'm going to be in Farmington all weekend with nothing to do but oh... idk... maybe ride up and over Ophir Pass and then down Last Dollar Road. Engineer Pass? I guess I should check for snow accumulations but coworkers that live south of there in Aztec say things are fine. Dang... riding around in the Rockies... how horrible is that going to be
All is reassembled, the radio radios, the antenna antennas (up and down). Life is good. The right front channel is still dead and I have 3 more speakers to install but right this second... all is wonderful in Landcruiserville. I can fix all of that stuff at my leisure.
The ARB switches went in yesterday. I put them in the overhead area.
I've got to find a place for the dual battery controller but I think that will be easy enough.
The iPhone cable is probably just going to sit on the console until I can install something like this in the "worthless area" near the ash tray.
I have a work trip to Farmington coming up (driving the LC) at the end of the week so I wont get any of the power wiring and Ham radio permanent mounting done but that's fine. The two big hurdles are over (until another one comes along).
Darn it... I'm going to be in Farmington all weekend with nothing to do but oh... idk... maybe ride up and over Ophir Pass and then down Last Dollar Road. Engineer Pass? I guess I should check for snow accumulations but coworkers that live south of there in Aztec say things are fine. Dang... riding around in the Rockies... how horrible is that going to be
Life is not all bad. I got a Sirius radio just for that drive west of here. No mans land for miles
Mike6158
Random Pixel Generator
- Thread starter
- #31
Yeah but it ends in the Big Bend of the Rio Grande if you turn in the right place. I'm looooong overdue for a BiBe trip. I was going out there 5 or 6 times a year and I just stopped... Soon...
I can add XM/Sirius/same thing to the stereo that I bought but I chose not to. By the time I get back from New Mexico I'll probably have it ordered. Then again... maybe not... routing the wire to the antenna... ick...
I've done home to Flagstaff, AZ in a long one day trip... and I've done Farmington in one day. When it's for work, I break it into two days
I can add XM/Sirius/same thing to the stereo that I bought but I chose not to. By the time I get back from New Mexico I'll probably have it ordered. Then again... maybe not... routing the wire to the antenna... ick...
I've done home to Flagstaff, AZ in a long one day trip... and I've done Farmington in one day. When it's for work, I break it into two days
I am heading for my first Big Bend state park trip November. Sirius is a life saver. I bought the add on from Crutchfield. It was free after rebate but I did have to sign up for a few months. I am very happy with the purchase.
Just swapped out the head unit in my 2000 LC with head unit and amp bypass harness from Crutchfield. Same problem - everything is dead. The fuse in the kick panel is live. The fuse under the hood is live. The wires at the dash are not.
Did anyone resolve this? I am measuring at the crimp connectors just past the stock stereo connector.
My next step is to dive into the harness coming out of the dash to find on/switched/antenna/ground.
Did anyone resolve this? I am measuring at the crimp connectors just past the stock stereo connector.
My next step is to dive into the harness coming out of the dash to find on/switched/antenna/ground.
Hey, could you tell us what was the SMT 10A fuse spec you had purchased. I just my radio under the bus with this when my constant 12v accidentally touched ground to it.You were almost correct Trunk Monkey. I very slowly and methodically traced all of the wiring after lunch. I ultimately came to the conclusion that there was something wrong inside the amp. Everything was as it should be, except the always on power side.
Winner, winner, chicken dinner.
Look at what the tip of the screwdriver is pointed at. That is a 10A surface mount fuse. Less than 50 cents. Way cheaper than that in bulk. The amp came with a blown fuse. How did it get blown? My suspicion is that when they cut it out of the car, literally... they just whacked the wires off of the connectors, they cut the small (B) connector side first. and in the process of cutting the wires they got the hot and ground in one cut. The A connector always hot feeds the B side through the fuse.
To test my theory is just jumped across the fuse...
So how did I test it. I used my ohm meter first and there was no continuity. Then, to see if that's all that was keeping the radio from turning on, I put my meter in current mode (Amps not Milliamps), swapped the plus lead over to the Amp connector, put the + lead on the supply side of the fuse and the negative lead on the "downstream" or radio side of the fuse and bingo... all was well.
Meter setup looks like this (excuse the messy bench, things to do there). When it was inline with the blown fuse the meter read about 500mA (1/2 A) which is within reason:
So I can just solder a jumper wire in there and call it good
What I can do is put the radio back in and close the dash part of this adventure up. The fuses will be here tomorrow or Saturday. It'll be a simple matter of putting it all back together and installing it in the car once the fuse is soldered in. I hope the antenna works. The wiring is there. I think it will.
I'm tempted to recap the amp while it's out, kind of preventative maintenance. 17 years is pushing electrolytic caps.
Onward through the fog.
