No Complete Combustion? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 18, 2024
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USA
So i've got my 1FZ-Fe back and installed. I've got spark, fuel at the rail and crank, but no start. I THINK I have at least one bang right after starting and then just starter sounds and cranking. I do still have spark during this, but I think no fuel is running through the injectors.

Reading through the FSM the top three culprits for what I think is happening is IAC Valve, MAF and "Oil Leak". I just checked the resistance on the IAC and MAF per the fsm and they are spec out correctly. I don't have any oil leaks; HOWEVER, the Oil Pressure Sender looks like it survived WW6 I removed it and took a dremel wire brush to it. I was able to clean up the copper terminal, but the other terminal (Attached to the case. I assume is the ground for the sensor.) is entirely rusted through. It is very possible that the sender is not working at all.

Does anyone know if a bad sender will kill the ignition process? I know on newer vehicles it will, but I can't find anything in the FSM on if it will or not. The FSM doesn't actually say to check the Oil Sender, it just says "Oil Leakage".

For reference: This is located on the Engine Oil Cooler

Screenshot 2024-08-04 125713.png
 
no it wont kill the ignition. what year is your truck? is the fuel pump running? do you have a video? what does the exhaust smell like? is it timed right?
 
no it wont kill the ignition. what year is your truck? is the fuel pump running? do you have a video? what does the exhaust smell like? is it timed right?
93, fuel pump is running, I vented the rail and it filled back up on the next start up. Exhaust doesn't smell like anything. Timing isn't advanced yet, but its at TDC and the distributor is set to cylinder 1. The fuel pump is actually new the old one didn't work at all. I'll record a video and post it. I think there is maybe 1 or 2 bangs right after turning the key over and then just starter sounds. At least a little fuel is making it to the cylinders, because I pulled the spark plugs and checked to see if they had spark, but its clearly not flooding on an extended crank session.
 


I didn't really any bang on that, and you can't hear it in the video but I can hear air being exhausted. Fairly regular uniform soft "thumps". You can also hear the relays flipping in the video.
 
Update: Noid light is working, and I got someone to help crank while I checked the exhaust. Exhaust is fairly gassy.

Without pulling the valve cover and just looking down into cylinder one it looks like TDC on 1 is at the 0 degree mark on the crank. The noid light and the sparkplug on cylinder 1 are out of sync though. I'm going to go back and look at the distributor again.
 
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You have zero compression!! Starter is cranking over way too fast. You either washed your cylinders or you have some other mechanical issue.
 
Are you sure you have the spark plugs installed?
 
Yea sounds like no compression, what's the story with the engine? is the valve timing right?
 
Are you sure you have the spark plugs installed?
I wish it were that simple! I'd gladly take the ribbing at this point.

Yea sounds like no compression, what's the story with the engine? is the valve timing right?

Just pulled the valve cover, cam marks are lined up, 0 mark on the crank is TDC of the compression stroke of cylinder 1 and the distributor is deadon plug #1.

The engine just came back from Southern Cylinder and Head in Huntsville, AL. I didn't compression test it, but I guess I will tomorrow. I've never actually heard this engine run. I bought it head off from a guy. The rebuilders said they didn't notice anything odd when they rebuilt it. They did the top and bottom.
 
Put a little bit of engine oil in each cylinder, put the plugs back in. If you can spin it a few times with the 30 mm on the crank bolt. A little bit meaning enough to get onto the cylinder walls when you spin it.
 
I'm having the same exact issue with a new engine and head, did you ever solve this?
 
sounds like no spark to my barely coherent brain
 
I'm having the same exact issue with a new engine and head, did you ever solve this?

Yes, I surrendered it to the head mechanic at my local dealership and after a grand he gave it back and told me the exhaust cam was 180⁰ out of time. That really confused me, because I followed the fsm and the cam marks were lined up correctly and the engine builder showed me the instructions that he used to time it and they were exactly the same as the fsm, but the dumb thing starts now so obviously the dealer was right.
 
How do the single dot and double dots on the cams line up? Same as the FSM? That's super confusing.
 
How do the single dot and double dots on the cams line up? Same as the FSM? That's super confusing.

I'm currently out of state until late December so I can't go look at it and I don't want to tell you wrong. My suggestion is time it like the fsm says and if has no compression flip the exhaust cam 180 and make sure the distributor is lined up correctly again.
 

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