No Brakes!!! (2 Viewers)

[Bad azz Cruiser]

So i get up this morning to go to work and when i turn the cruiser on i hear a little buzzing or beeping sound and i noticed the abs light and brake light on in the dash so i test the brakes looked at brake fluid and they were fine so i figured i would take it to my mecanic in the afternoon so i take off and as i go to slow down to turn on to the on ramp of the fwy the peddel drops to the floor board and no brakes!!!! i call aaa had it towed and the mecanic is looking at it but did't want to speculate on the problem till he got a chance to dig around.
Anybody have this problem before?Any speculations?

 

[DMX84]

I’d check the vacuum booster first. Did you petal feel normal?

 

[Bad azz Cruiser]

I’d check the vacuum booster first. Did you petal feel normal?

no pedal went all the way down, not normal at all!

 

[Landpimp]

don't think they have a vac booster, its hydralic I think. even if it was the booster, the pedal would get hard but you would still have brakes

 

[Bad azz Cruiser]

what about the ABS light and the beeping?

 

[Jim_Chow]

If the pedal went to the floor w/o any braking power at all, I'd guess the master has an internal leak. If there was a tiny bit of braking ability, but felt like it was not nearly enough (like you'd have to press w/ the strength of the Incredible Hulk), then the little electric pump is probably shot. Either way, you are looking at > $1K to replace the pump and/or master alone.

 

[MutleyFJ62]

Just been through this. Low pressure circuit on the master cylinder (ABS systerm) was playing up. As the m/c uses an elctrical sensor to adjust/regulate the pressure. Told by Toy dealer replacement M/c here in Aust is worth $5000...... gotta love warranty.

Low pressure sensor replaced. Seems ok at the moment....

 

[Bad azz Cruiser]

Damm soounds like nomatter what it s not going to be cheap I'll be back with an update!

 

[odesoto]

have u changed ur brakes? /pads/.. could be that your brakes are just run down. Same thing happned to me. I was suppossed to change the pads, and i kept delaying it because of lack of time.. one day coming home .. BEEEEep ABS disengaged. and .. yeah.

car is sitll in one piece, but i had to replace the rear rotor/pads. Oh yeah and thats the last time im doing something stupid like that. from now on, everytime i need to change pads. im doing it on time.

 

[Bad azz Cruiser]

have u changed ur brakes? /pads/.. could be that your brakes are just run down. Same thing happned to me. I was suppossed to change the pads, and i kept delaying it because of lack of time.. one day coming home .. BEEEEep ABS disengaged. and .. yeah.

car is sitll in one piece, but i had to replace the rear rotor/pads. Oh yeah and thats the last time im doing something stupid like that. from now on, everytime i need to change pads. im doing it on time.

well i had the bearings repacked about a month ago and the mechanic told me pads were low but still had some life left.

ok machanic called says brakes are working agian after he replaced the pads and rotors but ABS light remains on aswell as buzzing so he wants to run some more tests to make sure mastercylinder/buster part is OK because if not the part alone in 2K i'm crossing my fingers we'll see what happens! so odesoto have you had any problems with your brakes since? how long ago did this happen?

will update situation as soon as i hear word!

 

[Bad azz Cruiser]

could my tires have played a part just put on the 285 bfg mt's about a month ago ?

 

[100 TD]

Sounds like you are being ripped off, the replacement of the rotors and pads haven't done anything, (I believe) the problem is in the master cylinder/accumulator/pump, the electric pump has to pump the accumulator up to a certain pressure in a certain IIRC, and if they started on the pads/rotors, they probably have no idea what they are doing and you are going to pay for their lack of knowledge. Just my thoughts (Hope i'm wrong)

 

[Bad azz Cruiser]

Sounds like you are being ripped off, the replacement of the rotors and pads haven't done anything, (I believe) the problem is in the master cylinder/accumulator/pump, the electric pump has to pump the accumulator up to a certain pressure in a certain IIRC, and if they started on the pads/rotors, they probably have no idea what they are doing and you are going to pay for their lack of knowledge. Just my thoughts (Hope i'm wrong)

well just got back from the mechanic it is the master cylinder!

the pads needed replaced anyway so he just asume start there but says the master cylinder needs replacing $2,800.00 (ouch!!!) does include the pads. what causes this ? is this normal? will i have to replace this unit every 90,000 miles? its been two days and i miss my cruiser!

 

[ogsuv]

$2800 holy shnikes!

If that happens on mine, I'm switching to vaccuum!! I'll MacGyver it if I have to or cut holes in the floor and flinstone it.

 

[jp213a]

Have the diagnostics codes been read. There are several for ABS including hydraulic brake booster (HBB) relay malfunction (there are at least three relays), HBB motor malfunction, HBB motor is locked, malfunction in ABS ECU, power supply circuit malfunction (could be a blown fuse ), or about twenty (20) other ABS items with their own code (see FSM). Does your mechanic have the means to read the codes? If not, move on to a Toyota shop but I'd personelly interview the brake tech before deciding which dealer to choose. Interview the actual technician that will do your work, not the service writer. Find out about the tech's experience working on 1999 Toyota LC ABS systems (the ABS changed in 2000 to included vehicile skid control (VSC)). It the tech won't talk with you are the shop manager won't let the tech talk with you, go somewhere else. Since the braking system is so sophisticated and the parts are so expensive, you REALLY need an honest tech that knows what he is doing (or at least one that can pull the diagnostic codes and knows what they mean).

 

[100 TD]

well just got back from the mechanic it is the master cylinder!

the pads needed replaced anyway so he just asume start there but says the master cylinder needs replacing $2,800.00 (ouch!!!) does include the pads. what causes this ? is this normal? will i have to replace this unit every 90,000 miles? its been two days and i miss my cruiser!

Master cylinder, accumulator and pump is only $1310 from https://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html
Someone is taking you for a ride! why were the rotors changed, I would look at getting dollars and labour back for them, if you didn't agree to having them changed, since that was not the problem. Make sure you get all the the old parts back.

 

[Bad azz Cruiser]

Have the diagnostics codes been read. There are several for ABS including hydraulic brake booster (HBB) relay malfunction (there are at least three relays), HBB motor malfunction, HBB motor is locked, malfunction in ABS ECU, power supply circuit malfunction (could be a blown fuse ), or about twenty (20) other ABS items with their own code (see FSM). Does your mechanic have the means to read the codes? If not, move on to a Toyota shop but I'd personelly interview the brake tech before deciding which dealer to choose. Interview the actual technician that will do your work, not the service writer. Find out about the tech's experience working on 1999 Toyota LC ABS systems (the ABS changed in 2000 to included vehicile skid control (VSC)). It the tech won't talk with you are the shop manager won't let the tech talk with you, go somewhere else. Since the braking system is so sophisticated and the parts are so expensive, you REALLY need an honest tech that knows what he is doing (or at least one that can pull the diagnostic codes and knows what they mean).

Hey jp thats great info! he says he can't order the part till monday so i'm going to hit him up and quiz him tomorrow. Man this whole situation sucks but its good to know there good support out there!!! Thanks!!!!!

 

[Bad azz Cruiser]

Master cylinder, accumulator and pump is only $1310 from https://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html
Someone is taking you for a ride! why were the rotors changed, I would look at getting dollars and labour back for them, if you didn't agree to having them changed, since that was not the problem. Make sure you get all the the old parts back.

thats the part the mechanic said i needed and he mentioned somthing about a booster or boost is this part of this asembly?

 

[100 TD]

thats the part the mechanic said i needed and he mentioned somthing about a booster or boost is this part of this asembly?

This is taken from another thread, do a search, save youself a lot of money


I'm the unfortunate soul who had to recently replace this master cylinder assembly on his '99 Land Cruiser to the tune of $1,400 (not including labor). And that's a discounted price. The booster is electric, and is built into the master cylinder/ABS pump, all in one unit. In my case the ABS/booster pump's electric motor failed, and since it was the most expensive part of the whole assembly (close to $900 for the pump alone), I decided to replace everything in case the master cylinder failed later down the road (not available separately).

That master cylinder assembly includes everything from the push rod that hooks up to your pedal, to the acumulator, to the brake fluid reservoir, and even the electronics box that sits on the side where all the cables come in. All you have to do to replace it is remove the 4 nuts on the firewall (under the dash), undo three or 4 brake lines, disconnect the wires, and off it comes. Then just put the new one in and flush/bleed the system with 2-3 quarts of brake fluid. The cool thing is that the rear brakes will bleed themselves with the pump if you just push the pedal a little bit. The fronts you will have to push the pedal in and out the old fashioned way.

The system is great while it's working. The problem is that if it fails, it "failsafes" to hardly any brakes. Oh yea, it probably helps if you have the ignition on when doing the rolling down the hill experiment

-Luis Marques

 

[calamaridog]

Find out what the price breakdown is before you do anything else. I bet you can save some major $$ by ordering the parts and shipping them to him if he is overcharging the parts.

For the whole assembly including the Master, accumulator, and pump, you are looking at $1419.36 from Conicelli Toyota (for example).

Why he started with rotors and pads I can't imagine other than they needed to be replaced badly? I just had my SP slotted rotors and Hawk hi performance pads installed plus wheel bearings inspected and repacked for $250 labor and $250 parts.

Is $2800 the total cost for everything including the rotors and pads, and master/pump installed and all buttoned up? I could ALMOST see it costing that much TOTAL on a bad day