night driving lights (PIAA etc)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 3, 2013
Threads
31
Messages
209
Location
Greenville, South Carolina, USA
Instead of ruin other drivers vision, I have thought about attaching 2 PIAA lights to the bull bar on the front of the 100 series I have...anyone have an opinion on these or a recommendation on anything they have used to flood the road with light. Not really interested in a bar of lights, but who knows..many thanks in advance

 
I've been super satisfied running strong aftermarket fog lights (Baja Design) that really augment the power of the headlights, but have a clear cut-off so I'm not the annoying guy blinding people in traffic. They aim low and spread out (almost like floods, but with a cut off on the top). I also have 9" Colight flood/laser beams (mounted on the bullbar) that will melt your retinas, but I only use those offroad! :)
 
I've been super satisfied running strong aftermarket fog lights (Baja Design) that really augment the power of the headlights, but have a clear cut-off so I'm not the annoying guy blinding people in traffic. They aim low and spread out (almost like floods, but with a cut off on the top). I also have 9" Colight flood/laser beams (mounted on the bullbar) that will melt your retinas, but I only use those offroad! :)
yes! I am not going to use them for anything other than off-road night driving..I tried some LED replacement bulbs in an 80 series that worked great, but I found I much prefer a halogen bulb for any night road driving. Thanks for the mention of Baja Design..I have also looked at Rigid
 
I have Rigid 360 series 6" LED Beam lights and the output is phenomenal. I can't compare to the PIAA 5772's but I think those are more than 10 years old? There have been significant advances in LED tech since then.
 
prefer a halogen bulb for any night road driving

I've tried HID, LED and have reverted to halogen - here in Oz we have a specialist manufacturer of off-road halogen driving lights, being Fyrlyt. The Luxsis 5000s (2 x 150W) on the LX were originally installed on my LC in 2017 and I've so far needed to replace 1 lens, and just replaced another due to damage.

The entire assembly is available as spare parts, even after 10 years in business.

Here's a review from 4x4 Australia:
 
Last edited:
I've tried HID, LED and have reverted to halogen - here in Oz we have a specialist manufacturer of off-road halogen driving lights, being Fyrlyt. The Luxsis 5000s (2 x 150W) on the LX were originally installed on my LC in 2017 and I've so far needed to replace 1 lens, and just replaced another due to damage.

The entire assembly is available as spare parts, even after 10 years in business.

Here's a review from 4x4 Australia:
Cool! Thanks..looking into these
 
Instead of ruin other drivers vision, I have thought about attaching 2 PIAA lights to the bull bar on the front of the 100 series I have...anyone have an opinion on these or a recommendation on anything they have used to flood the road with light. Not really interested in a bar of lights, but who knows..many thanks in advance

Not really sure what you mean when you say that "Instead of ruin other drivers vision, I have thought about attaching 2 PIAA lights to the bull bar on the front of the 100 series I have." The effect of your lights on others is not influenced by what brand name is on your lights. It is the type of light, the type of focus that it has which determines that. And if you want to "flood the road with light"... then you are going to ruin the other drivers vision.

You can't have it both ways. ;)

You can use a light with a well defined horizontal cutoff (basically a "low beam") to keep the focus of the light (and as much side scatter as possible) out of the eyes of oncoming drivers. No matter how much light you put in front of you with this approach it will always be suitable only for close in use and low speeds. If it is properly made , the vast majority of the light will only reach forward to where the cutoff meets the ground. No matter how bright they light is within it's coverage area, in order to not impact oncoming drivers, it is impossible to aim the light high enough to reach more than a couple of hundred feet ahead. At most.

Modern projector lowbeams are very good at this. But they are so good, that there is no real illumination above the cutoff, making them exceptionally unsuitable for high speed use.

You can use a light which is broadly focused with no cutoff, to light up everything in front of you with as broad as 180* coverage in every direction. Lights like this will illuminate the road up ahead of you, the ditches and the ground and the trees. Everything. Good stuff if you are not worrying about oncoming traffic. Great on the trail. Still not always perfect on the road since, no matter how much insane energy you might put out there, the dispersion of the light weakens it pretty fast as the distance increases. With enough power and a bit of center weighting to put more of the light straight ahead this can be very very very good on the road as well as pretty darn good on tighter trails too. But again, not good for oncoming traffic. At all. If they are powerful enough to be what you are wanting your auxiliary lights to be, they will be far far far worse than your highbeams in everyone else's eyes.

You can use a light with a very tight focus straight down the road. Even some of the higher quality old school stuff could achieve a pretty tight focus. With modern tech (particularly the laser stimulated chip approach) can focus as tight a 1*... with is really too tight for almost all uses. In any case, a good tightly focused light can put almost all the photons way down the road. Useless at low speed or on twistier roads, but on a deep dark middle of the night high speed cruise down the open highway, these are great for seeing the deer, cow, elk, moose (drunkards or tweakers too) waiting way up the road to step in front of you.

Circling back to the second type I mention here, a decent quality, high power unit with a broad secondary focus and a good degree of center weighting to the pattern will give all the close in wide coverage lighting that anyone will need while driving and also push enough down the road to satisfy 90% of any realistic needs for most of us. I have a set on one of my 80s that provides very very good illumination out to 200 yards or so and still enough at 300 yards to be a very positive addition. As well as a full 180* in every direction to keep the close in stuff extremely well lit. (These are very similar to the ARB Intensity lights with *maybe* a bit less center weighting.) The biggest downside of this specific set, and others like it, is that the midrange illumination is so strong that your eyes adjust to that level of brightness, and trying to peer into the darkness beyond it can be a bit tough sometimes.
Which is why a set of tightly focused lights to increase the extreme distance illumination is the perfect combination. (Laser laser laser! ;) )

Ideally, a combination of a quality pair of each of these types will give you all the light you need in any situation.

But no one light can't do everything. A light that will not impact oncoming drivers can never give you the light you need for higher speed or longer distance and probably not illuminate the ditches and everything off to the sides very well either. And it's not about brand name. Brand name really does not matter so long as the quality is there and the design is right.

Once you settle on what you want for lights, then look at mounting location a bit too. ;)


Mark...
 
Last edited:
I am still processing that! thanks very much..I was unclear about what I meant that I do not want to blind other drivers. I used an LED replacement bulb and they worked well, but I don't think others appreciate them at night so I ma back on halogen. For the auxiliary lights on the bull bar, I just need something that will flood the trail or rural road at night , not for use with oncoming traffic...I really like the idea of the Fyrlyt...there is so much tech these days so thanks for helping me understand it better. Much obliged!
 
Without geeking over it too badly, I'll just say that very very very few LEDS or HIDs can be dropped into an old scholl refelctor )or lens) focused light and work worth a crap. The pattern is almost always crap and they glare on other drivers eyes badly. It is the nature of the tech. Just not reverse compatible. An LED or HID in an assembly made for an led or hid is another story. You really need to use a projector to get the ultimate in crisp cutoffs but there are some led lights pout there now that have better cutoffs than any of the old school reflector lights ever did.

That said, I have come across one type of led low beam bulbs for the '80 which give as good a cutoff in the OEM housings as any off the shelf replacement halogen I have used. They use a slightly different approach to getting the light from the chip and to the reflector/lens

For trails and open roads, where you are not worrying about oncoming traffic... that is simple. Find the balance of distance and midrange focusing that you like and dump as much power out there as you can. ;). Led is really your best bet in terms of the amount of light you get for the electricty burned and the price. I wish that someone would offer some of the Laser stimulated chip lights in other than long range pencil beams. They are great for that, but the manufacturers seem to be overlooking that they are also an order of magnitude brighter than the leds! There is no reason that this tech could not be used to give loosely or precisely focused broad patterns, with or without cutoffs. :(

I have not used the Fyrlt, offerings. They approached me to be a distributor a few years back, but I was not then and am even less now interested in pursuing and investing money in a dying tech that simply is not and can not be as effective at lighting the way as everything else. Not to mention that their bulbs are proprietary so you are either stockpiling the expensive bastards or ordering replacements from OZ when they burn out. And they will burn out. That is what high power halogen bulbs do after all. ;) And their rep was kind of a jerk when I dealt with him. Asking for technical information repeatedly just got me the same shallow advertising fluff over and over. :(


Mark...
 
Lighting is very complicated. I run FYRLYT 9000 Nemesis 24V on my BJ74 and MOFO12000 on my 12V 60.
I like light, that matches natural spectrum of colour at night. So I like Halogen. I won't bother with the LED vs HID
vs Halogen conversation. I'm also an at times extremely high speed night driver. Land Cruisers never enter into that.
Rally cars run lights low along the lower bumper line, and usually 4 right along the hood/sight line of the driver.
Running aux lights with oncoming traffic is best with lights mounted lower down, and a solid cut off, yet user also
has to respect oncoming traffic and those lights just shouldn't ever be brighter than 50W light output. It keeps low
level spread in the ditches and helps visual contact with soft bodied animals.
If you want non-oncoming traffic lights that's where the 4 come in. 2 spots, one slightly left one slightly right and
2 spread beam for full width coverage. I like to keep that left side spot up a bit. Again, it's how you see and how you
want to see.
 
Thanks for the info on fyrlyt. I will check that out.

I played around with LEDs for aux lighting but have gone back to halogen.

An ece/dot compliant LED with decent quality is expensive. Good off road LEDs are absurd. Since I am not racing in the desert the expense doesn't make sense. And I just don't like looking at LED light for long stretches. And I like that they clear snow automatically. And they don't have any fans, heat sinks, or circuit boards to fail.

So cheap and effective halogens for me. The best option for new lights stateside seems to be Hella, so I have the Hella 500 fog lamp and a set of older Hella 9" driving lights a buddy gave me.

The only downside is using a beefy enough wiring harness and having space on the bumper.

I haven't finished wiring them but I'm going to have them on a switch that links them to my headlights, so I can control the driving lights with the high beam stalk. I only plan to use them in fog, remote highways, and on trails.
 
Diode Dynamics sells small LED pods that are DOT approved for fog function (low and very wide output) and they also sell a small pod that is DOT approved for use as a driving light. (Think highbeams) they are very bright and reach out pretty far. Small package and very low current draw.

 
Rigid, Diode Dynamics, Baja Designs, and I think KC all have dot legal lights that I considered.

But with Osram Nightbreaker h4 standard watt bulbs in my stock koito 7" round housings I have plenty of light on the highway for normal conditions. Huge improvement over my Hella 100w ones.

Combined with Hella 500 (available in fogs or driving beams), or the Hella ff75/50 fogs in a smaller package, I am covered and LED-free at less than the cheapest street legal LEDs.

I know everyone has their preferences but I am 100% on the halogen train and this setup does great. I may even add a pair of FF50s to my rear bumper as aux reverse lights.
 
There is no such thing as "DOT Approved". The US Department of Transportation does not "approve" lights or tires or anything else.

They set standards on some items. The manufacturers are expected to meet those standards. Anyone who labels or advertises their product as "DOT Approved"... is at best misunderstanding. More likely lying, assuming that the customers will not know the difference.

The federal Government (DOT), for the most part, does not really give a hoot about what a non-commercial entity does to their non-commercially used vehicle. The federal government has no enforcement mechanism to take action against a non-commercial entity utilizing parts that do not comply with the federal DOT standards.

*SOME* states mandate that all, or some vehicle components must comply with federal DOT standards, or with their own mandated standards which mirror the federal DOT standards. Not all states.

Almost all vehicle equipment requirements are state level, not federal.

For example (It has been a while since I specifically checked this, so it may have changed, but until recently at least...) here in Alaska, my headlightsd have to meet a minimum level of light output. And I have to dim my high beams at 500 feet for approaching vehicles on a non-divided highway and 200 feet for vehicles I am overtaking. BUT... there is no upper limit on how bright/powerful they can be. IF I wanted to, I could bolt a pair of six foot diameter WWII carbon arc searchlights from the London Blitz onto the front of my rig as driving lights. So long as I dimmed them at no less than 500 feet for approaching vehicles. Absurd? yes. Illegal? nope.

Mark...
 
I think we're picking nits here. The point being if you want to not be a hazard on the roads or risk law enforcement action you use lights that meet or exceed the standards of your jurisdiction (dot in the States, ece in Europe, etc) rather than using off highway lights on the roads.
Not picking nits. Just pointing out that "DOT approved" or not has nothing at all to do with the quality of the light, or effectiveness of the light OR it's impact on others. A claim of being DOT approved means nothing. And a light that does not, even pretend to meet DOT standards can easily surpass one that does in every aspect. Or in none. For decades the US was stuck with sealed beam non-halogen headlights which were little more effective than kerosene lanterns hanging on the front of a buggy while Europe moved out of the stone age lighting systems of early 1900s tech. Why? Because the Federal DOT is a bureaucratic morass which was uninterested in safety over the interest of commercial interests with political pull. Would you argue that the 1960s DOT compliant headlight that came from the factory in an early FJ40 was somehow better than a modern headlight.? good luck with that argument. ;)

DOT standards in lighting mean nothing for the user or those on the roads with them. There is no hazard being created or avoided by virtue of a claim of being DOT approved and, as I pointed out, there is no "law enforcement" issue here at all. These DOT standards are not laws, there are no penalties and DOT has no enforcement arm outside of whatever they have for dealing intrastate commerce. Which is of zero concern to private parties in private vehicles.


As I stated, "*SOME* states mandate that all, or some vehicle components must comply with federal DOT standards, or with their own mandated standards which mirror the federal DOT standards. Not all states.

Almost all vehicle equipment requirements are state level, not federal."


No where did I suggest violating any laws. I simply pointed out that "DOT approved" is not a thing and that Federal DOT standards have absolutely zero to do with meeting any legal requirements.

I would not be surprised if the People's Republic of Kalifornia has mandated that all equipment on all vehicles must meet federal DOT standards, and has their police forces out there checking serial numbers on tail light lenses and tracking them back to the Chinese factory of origin to see if the light spectrum passage meets US federal expectations and other silliness like that. I'd bet some other states have the same attitudes.

But we do not all live in these places and have no concern or interest in what places we do not live and do not travel to feel we should do.


Mark.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom