Newbie Smog Questions

[local favorite]

So I just purchased my first FJ40. 1980 (12/79 Mfg Date). I have pretty much decided I want the smog stuff gone (unless someone can talk me out of it). I live in eastern NC so I won't need it. I do not ever plan on selling it because as long as it took for me to find one like I wanted and as much trouble as I went through to get this one, I would probably seriously consider selling a kidney first instead.

I am planning to do a resto/mod with about 90% of it being resto. The only things I have considered changing are common mechanical upgrades primarily for the sake of usability and reliability. I ran across MAF's "performance pack" which most of you probably know includes: headers, y pipe, DUI ignition, weber carb, etc.

The quesition is: should I go the typical desmog route (rework carb/destributor/plug stuff) or can and should I just bolt on this performance pack and be done with it?

Also, if I remove the smog pump, do I need to install an idler in its place?

Thanks for your help!

 

[John Smith]

So I just purchased my first FJ40. 1980 (12/79 Mfg Date). I have pretty much decided I want the smog stuff gone (unless someone can talk me out of it). I live in eastern NC so I won't need it. I do not ever plan on selling it because as long as it took for me to find one like I wanted and as much trouble as I went through to get this one, I would probably seriously consider selling a kidney first instead.

I am planning to do a resto/mod with about 90% of it being resto. The only things I have considered changing are common mechanical upgrades primarily for the sake of usability and reliability. I ran across MAF's "performance pack" which most of you probably know includes: headers, y pipe, DUI ignition, weber carb, etc.

The quesition is: should I go the typical desmog route (rework carb/destributor/plug stuff) or can and should I just bolt on this performance pack and be done with it?

Also, if I remove the smog pump, do I need to install an idler in its place?

Thanks for your help!

Welcome to Mud! Before you do anything just drive the truck and enjoy it for six months to a year. During that time also spend plenty of time on this site and you will have a much better idea of what you want to do with your 40. My guess is you will decide that the MAF kit you mention will do nothing to boost the reliability of your truck but actually detract from it. If you desmog it save all the parts so you can go back should you ever need to. You will probably destroy the air injection rail in the process but that is normal.

The FAQ is a good place to start your journey. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...uestions-***-f-q-***-updated-28-jul-09-a.html

If you are ready to desmog today study this along with the factory diagram on your hood and you will know everything you need to remove and what to keep.
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/smog/72706FJ60desmog.jpg

 

[1911]

So I just purchased my first FJ40. 1980 (12/79 Mfg Date). I have pretty much decided I want the smog stuff gone (unless someone can talk me out of it). I live in eastern NC so I won't need it. I do not ever plan on selling it...

Congratulations and welcome to mud.

Coincidently, my Cruiser is exactly the same year and even build date as yours.

You will get lots of people telling you to not de-smog it; my experience follows: short story, pieces of my emissions stuff started to break so rather than fix it I went ahead and de-smogged it. I'm very happy that I did, mine runs much better, runs cooler, and gets better mileage. My conclusion is that my emmissions stuff must have been in worse shape that it seemed.

My advice is, if you do decide to de-smog, do it all, and start from scratch on the vacuum lines. Remove the air injection system, remove all the EGR components and make the necessary mods for the PCV line and blank-off the exhaust manifold, remove everything not on the mud de-smog diagram. Remove all the vacuum line manifolds and spaghetti. Buy a de-smog plug kit from Jim C. (FJ40jim). Search the 40 Forum (what you reading right now) for both "de-smog" and "desmog" and you will find many helpful threads with details and diagrams, including the official de-smog diagram. Read and study the de-smog diagram until you understand what everything is (it uses Toyota acronyms liberally). Use the diagram to re-plumb only the necessary vacuum lines with brand-new vacuum line. Ask questions here if you get stuck. Eventually, get your stock distributor re-curved by Jim C. (I haven't done this yet). Be happy, enjoy your better-running Cruiser and all the extra real estate under your hood.

I am planning to do a resto/mod with about 90% of it being resto. The only things I have considered changing are common mechanical upgrades primarily for the sake of usability and reliability. I ran across MAF's "performance pack" which most of you probably know includes: headers, y pipe, DUI ignition, weber carb, etc.

The quesition is: should I go the typical desmog route (rework carb/destributor/plug stuff) or can and should I just bolt on this performance pack and be done with it?

If was you, I would stick with the stock Aisin carb and have Jim C. re-curve your stock distributor. The stock carbs are easy to work on, can be re-built, are a known quantity, and lots of people here can help you with them. Headers are OK, but they all rust eventually.

Also, if I remove the smog pump, do I need to install an idler in its place?

Most people say that the late 2F does not need an idler to replace the smog pump. I didn't like the number of degrees of contact that the one remaining alternator belt had on my water pump, so I installed an idler pully inplace of my air pump just for insurance.

Thanks for your help!

You're welcome. Enjoy your Cruiser and don't be afraid to ask for help.

 

[Pin_Head]

My experience is that removing all the engine controls and adding all the "upgrades" isn't going to make a significant difference in performance or mileage and it may actually run worse under some conditions, like engine braking down hill. It will also make it worth less and harder to sell. It isn't woth the time and expernse to remove to make your truck worth less.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Congrats. I would be one of those "don't de-smog it, man" guys. I own a 77 55 series, and when I got my truck, it only had about a third of the emissions stuff with it, and none of it hooked up. A good emissions system shouldn't be robbing any power or mileage. Granted that our rigs are thirty or something years old, and all those hoses start rotting out- and what the heck does that thing even do?- right. I too did the easy thing and made some extra room in my engine compartment. Well, I live in California (I know you said that your local laws are less diligent in air quality issues, but you never know what those treehuggers are capable of), and I needed to smog my rig! I can't even tell you how much time in research I spent- I lost count (was totally worth some knowledge), I think over 120 hours to be conserative. That was just so I would know what to look for (all those little parts). Next I had to track down from three or four souces all over the US USED parts that weren't used from my rig! (over 1400 bucks and 5 weeks of shipping wait). After all that, I wondered if it wouldn't have been easier and cheaper to have just fixed the smog system instead of "being smarter" than it and yanking it out. P.S. let me know if you're still intent on getting rid of any of that smog crap!

 

[estoltman]

Go for it! I got on here late last year after picking up my FJ40 that had been restored, but not completely desmogged. The problem was that some people on here were down right rude and insulting stating not to desmog, I don't know what I'm doing, you are going to ruin the value of your FJ-40, you're stupid, etc.

Well, mine runs fine, runs better, and I even have a freeflow air intake I made from aftermarket parts. I also wonder if all the folks saying not to change the engine for values sake have V-8s or other conversions in the FJ-40s.

Anyway, I've stayed off here for the past year, not asked any questions (just in case I might be even more stupid as time went on), and read stuff I needed.

Good luck! It's your vehicle - have fun!

 

[local favorite]

Thanks for the input!

Really my motivation for desmogging is not "performance" but more or less to remove something that is, at least in my area, unnecessary, complicated and could be potentially problematic. I tend to tilt toward the simpler is better philosophy in most every aspect of life so maybe that's clouding my view of that underhood spaghetti currently filling up my engine bay.

Anyway I'll probably do what the first reply suggested and mull on it a while before I make a decision; I'm not an impulsive decision make either.

 

[Pin_Head]

I tend to tilt toward the simpler is better philosophy in most every aspect of life so maybe that's clouding my view of that underhood spaghetti currently filling up my engine bay.

.

Simpler would be true, but in this case, it isn't necessarily better. The problem is that the carb and distributor are designed to be controlled from signals supplied by the engine control computer. If you want simple, get a non-USA (non smog) carburetor and distributor and then everything will be fine and not have to look at all the vacuum hoses. You won't be able to sell your truck in about half of the states and the number is increasing every year.