Newbie replaces control arms

[mathlete]

Hi all, new FZJ80 owner here picking up a wrench with not much experience...but I'm learning, having fun, and got a lot of time on my hands over the next 2 months (perks of being a teacher). I've done a handful of baseline tasks already, and now I'm trying to tackle the rear upper & lower control arms. I'm replacing them with OEM arms + bushings, one at a time. The old ones were toast; the bushings in particular. I'll outline the issues I'm having and the things I have tried.

Lower control arms:
All nuts and front bolts come out easily. Rear bolts, not so much. I have the same problem as discussed in this thread, where the bolt is hitting the rear OME shock absorber. I removed the lower bolt on the shock absorber but could not pull it off, even with a pry bar. Seems like the bushing is seized to the mount.

• Should I try to remove the top mounting bolts on the shock absorber instead to rotate it out of the way? Wasn't sure if I'll get myself in trouble by doing that.
• Or should I be more persuasive with the pry bar? I was giving it about 70% effort as to not damage it

Upper control arms:
After I gave up on the lowers, I put the bolts fully back in to keep things in place and moved on to try the uppers. Removal was easy enough. The replacing is where I run into trouble. The mounting holes do not align. It appears I need slightly more space between the holes now. I tried ratchet straps around the rear axle and rear trailer hitch, but that did nothing. I also tried jacking the car up, but that did nothing as well.

Any tips or other recommendations are appreciated. Feeling a bit like this right now...

TIA

 

[CharlieS]

Not a ton to add wrt the control arm part, but your lower shock eye shouldn't be seized on the mount. Well, they commonly are, but I'd want to rectify that situation. Removing the two bolts to the upper mount would give you a fighting chance at shock removal, but in my experience, when the bottom bolt is seized, removal is often destructive. It may require more tools than you have (sawzall, chisels, big hammers, cutoff wheels, and possibly torches) if you don't do mechanical work, and will definitely involve lots of creative curse words. Most likely shock replacement too. I grease the lower posts liberally when Install mine to avoid this problem next time in.

Depending on how much more space you need, a spud wrench or pointed end pry bar can help with alignment of the parts. The ratchet strap can help a lot. you may need to get the weight off the wheels and suspension since you are fighting the weight of the vehicle. Jack stands to the frame may help, putting them on the axle may not.

 

[80t0ylc]

A puller such as this could help
Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Tech-Bearings-Flywheels/dp/B08JLF4JDF/ref=asc_df_B08JLF4JDF/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693634200425&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9886948452385208146&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030850&hvtargid=pla-1187674441643&psc=1&mcid=c03c15ec5da1376584e3750e60c56074&gad_source=1

They can also be picked up at Harbor freight.

 

[mathlete]

Not a ton to add wrt the control arm part, but your lower shock eye shouldn't be seized on the mount. Well, they commonly are, but I'd want to rectify that situation. Removing the two bolts to the upper mount would give you a fighting chance at shock removal, but in my experience, when the bottom bolt is seized, removal is often destructive. It may require more tools than you have (sawzall, chisels, big hammers, cutoff wheels, and possibly torches) if you don't do mechanical work, and will definitely involve lots of creative curse words. Most likely shock replacement too. I grease the lower posts liberally when Install mine to avoid this problem next time in.

Depending on how much more space you need, a spud wrench or pointed end pry bar can help with alignment of the parts. The ratchet strap can help a lot. you may need to get the weight off the wheels and suspension since you are fighting the weight of the vehicle. Jack stands to the frame may help, putting them on the axle may not.

Thanks for the advice. I've put aside the LCA's for now, as the UCA's seem more doable. I put jack stand to the frame as you suggested to take full weight off the rear axle (I let it droop as far as it could). Here's a pic of how far the bolt hole is away when fully drooped, about 4-5mm away from the hole.

I also learned that the rear axle shifts to the passenger side when weight is taken off of it...I tried ratchet straps from the rear axle to the rear towing hitch, but nothing moved under tension. Where exactly should I be placing the ratchet straps to pivot the rear axle backwards? Or is there another way do move the rear axle backwards?

I will also be removing/replacing the rear panhard rod with OEM; would removing that in the meantime allow me more movement on the rear axle?

 

[duece71]

When I removed the rear control arms to change out the bushings, I put the Jack stands where you did and tried to get the axle to droop as far as possible from the frame. I ended up having to remove the shocks to get lower control arm bolt axle side to go in. I snapped off the lower shock bolt and it turned into a multi day saga. You may consider removing the rear sway bar to get more room. As CharlieS said above, removing the upper shock bolts will give you some more room. Be careful of the rubber brake line on the axle, it will be stretched to its limit.

 

[freshspecbluegt]

If you have the LCA’s in the axle won’t really move. Looks like you need to rotate the housing to get aligned. Try getting the ratchet strap hook up near the top of the mount.

 

[freshspecbluegt]

Also I had to take the spring out to get to that bolt on mine (OEM 860 rear spring).

 

[mathlete]

Upper control arms are done

Better positioned ratchet straps and detaching the rear sway bar were key to get the holes lined up. I'll give the lower control arms another go tomorrow; hopefully I can remove the upper shock absorber bolts to rotate it out of the way so the control arm bolt can come out.

 

[mathlete]

Lower control arm is out using the ideas mentioned above ^^^

Reinstalling the new LCA is turning into the same issue I had with the UCA's. I have the rear bolt in, but the front bolt hole is not aligning, and even further off than the UCA's were.

I still have jack stands under the frame and rear axle. I tried jacking the rear axle up/down but that didn't help significantly. I'm thinking about putting the rear wheels back on and letting it sit in a more neutral position, but unsure if that's a bad idea? I could try ratchet straps again, but not sure about strapping around the rear axle if its on jack stands.

 

[Tanner H]

I've replaced the lower arms one at a time while the truck was on the ground. Shock and spring were installed at this time I should note. So the weight of the truck is resting on the suspension normally.
I had someone rotate the tire on the ground back and forth little by little until the bolt went through. If you can get the bolt started in there a bit but cant push it through by hand...a few light taps on the bolt head with a hammer while the other person continues to move the tire back and forth to help align it. Should be good after that.

Assuming only one of your lower arms is removed at this time. If both are removed right now then I wouldnt go my route for safety reasons.

 

[freshspecbluegt]

I would take the jack stands out from the frame. Set it just on the axle jackstands. Use a ratchet strap around the axle and the trans cross member to align.

 

[BILT4ME]

I would take the jack stands out from the frame. Set it just on the axle jackstands. Use a ratchet strap around the axle and the trans cross member to align.

Not until you get at least one of the LCA's attached on both ends.

This is why you should do them one at a time.

In order to "twist" the axle forward you'll need to ratchet strap from the yoke on the pinion up to the frame and that will roll the bottom toward the frame mounts.

 

[freshspecbluegt]

Yes my assumption was this is being done one side at a time.

 

[duece71]

I learned my lesson when I did the front bushings, always one side at a time.

 

[BILT4ME]

Lower control arm is out using the ideas mentioned above ^^^

Reinstalling the new LCA is turning into the same issue I had with the UCA's. I have the rear bolt in, but the front bolt hole is not aligning, and even further off than the UCA's were.
View attachment 3663854
I still have jack stands under the frame and rear axle. I tried jacking the rear axle up/down but that didn't help significantly. I'm thinking about putting the rear wheels back on and letting it sit in a more neutral position, but unsure if that's a bad idea? I could try ratchet straps again, but not sure about strapping around the rear axle if its on jack stands.

This is why you should do them one at a time.

In order to "twist" the axle forward you'll need to ratchet strap from the yoke on the pinion up to the frame and that will roll the bottom toward the frame mounts.

You could take the axle off the jack stands, as the ones under the frame should be carrying all the weight. Right now, the two sets of jack stands will fight each other and you could end up with something falling and getting hurt.

Do this is a controlled manner. Do not have any part of your body under the vehicle while you're jacking or moving things.
Once things are out, attempt to shake the vehicle from the outside using your bodyweight so you can confirm it's not going to tip over or fall off the stands.

After the stands under the axle are out, then you can use ratchet straps to pull the axle in a direction you need. Place the strap parallel, perpendicular, or 180° to the direction you need the acke to move.
Make sure you only attach to frame components and the axle housing.
To rotate the housing down, hook to the yoke and run the strap under the axle, out the rear, and up to the spare tire carrier frame member.

 

[duece71]

If you can get the frame axle stands to maximum height, you could lower the axle all the way down. Watch out for the rubber axle brake line. This axle up and down worked for me but I did one side at a time.

 

[mathlete]

Lowers are in. Very helpful advice, I used nearly all of it. For the record, I was doing the arms one at a time. I overcomplicated it by wanting the holes to align perfectly before attempting to insert the bolt. This caused me to raise/lower the suspension, ratchet strap, etc. and it moved things around too much. I think all I needed was a couple of hits from a hammer to get the bolt through

One more question before I tighten things down: the nut and washer seem slightly different on each side, so I'm assuming theres a particular way they're supposed to go on. Part numbers for reference:

Washer: 90201-19011
Nut: 90170-18007

Which way should the washer and nut face? Or am I seeing something that's not there and it doesn't matter?

 

[BILT4ME]

Lowers are in. Very helpful advice, I used nearly all of it. For the record, I was doing the arms one at a time. I overcomplicated it by wanting the holes to align perfectly before attempting to insert the bolt. This caused me to raise/lower the suspension, ratchet strap, etc. and it moved things around too much. I think all I needed was a couple of hits from a hammer to get the bolt through

One more question before I tighten things down: the nut and washer seem slightly different on each side, so I'm assuming theres a particular way they're supposed to go on. Part numbers for reference:

Washer: 90201-19011
Nut: 90170-18007

View attachment 3664588View attachment 3664589View attachment 3664605View attachment 3664610
Which way should the washer and nut face? Or am I seeing something that's not there and it doesn't matter?

Excellent observation.

I would place the surface of the nut on the RIGHT side against the part or surface it is mating.
Same with the washer on the RIGHT side.

Also, only turn the part with the WASHER on it. If the nut has the washer, turn the nut.
If the bolt has the washer, turn the bolt.

The exception is when loosening because some of the jolts and some of the nuts have serrated faces designed to not rotate and back out. Turn the opposite side or you'll grind out the frame or part you're trying to save.

 

[Broski]

As you learned the axle swings to the side when it drops. This puts the control arms slightly out of alignment. When I’m doing control arms, front or rear I pull one bolt out of the panhard.
Make it way easier as there’s no miss alignment

 

[Eyedaho]

A puller such as this could help
Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Tech-Bearings-Flywheels/dp/B08JLF4JDF/ref=asc_df_B08JLF4JDF/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693634200425&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9886948452385208146&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030850&hvtargid=pla-1187674441643&psc=1&mcid=c03c15ec5da1376584e3750e60c56074&gad_source=1

They can also be picked up at Harbor freight.

Wear your safety glasses when using those pullers! I have bounced one of the legs off of my safety glasses at a scary velocity when a HF puller catastrophically failed. Had I not been wearing them, I likely would have damaged or lost that eye.