Newbie painting a fender

[EricG]

Hi All - a friend took out a sign with the front fender of her 01 Subaru. I've ordered a new panel for her, but need some advice on the paint. Not a complete newb - painted some panels with my dad 30 years ago, but don't remember much of the details, other then alot of sanding

I've got a cheapo spray gun that looks something like this, which is the style of gun I used with my dad. I remember it being pretty finicky to set up well. How does this compare to the HVLP stuff?

The one I have came from a kit of pneumatic tools, which were all pretty much crap. So I don't have much hope for this either. Recommendations for a decent unit that I won't have to fight with? Reasonable price of course, but I plan to eventually paint my 40 so I don't mind spending a little cash for something decent.

On to the paint - The Subaru color code is O1X - white frost pearl. The online vendors (automotivetouchup.com) I've looked at list it as a "tri-coat" paint requiring a "ground" coat and a "mid" coat and a pretty hefty price tag for a kit containing both - about $90/pint (includes both paints). Anybody have any experience with this sort of system? Will a pint be enough for one fender? I will also be talking to a local paint store (Dale's Paint on Platte, maybe Sherwin Williams).

Thanks

 

[Splangy]

You really can't miss with the "good" guns from Harbor Freight. I don't buy any real tools that I would have to depend on from HF, but their good spray guns really do work very well. Spend the extra money (they're all cheap, anyways) and get the best HVLP gun they have. I forget the model number now, but it should be easy to find on the site or in store. It's silver with purple knobs. I would talk to your lcoal paint jobber about the paints he sells. It's probably not going to match very well if you try to cut corners and not use that 3-part system. Also bring the VIN# with you. My jobber tells me there can be variations in color codes and that the VIN helps him get the match just right. You're going to have a hard time as it is matching 11 year old paint.

You're a very good friend. I would have told her to be more careful next time and to use her insurance policy to get it fixed! Once you're done with this little project, you'll probably say the same thing next time!

 

[toomanytoyzz]

Three stage is tricky to say the least. Use test panels to get the amount of material needed from the first base to the pearl coat correct. It will be real difficult to get it right on the first shot. Let the small test panels fully dry and compare them to the vehicle. You'll see how different one panel looks compared to the rest.

As for the gun, a decent HF unit will be fine. Definitely get a HVLP gun.

 

[EricG]

You really can't miss with the "good" guns from Harbor Freight. I don't buy any real tools that I would have to depend on from HF, but their good spray guns really do work very well. Spend the extra money (they're all cheap, anyways) and get the best HVLP gun they have. I forget the model number now, but it should be easy to find on the site or in store. It's silver with purple knobs. I would talk to your lcoal paint jobber about the paints he sells. It's probably not going to match very well if you try to cut corners and not use that 3-part system. Also bring the VIN# with you. My jobber tells me there can be variations in color codes and that the VIN helps him get the match just right. You're going to have a hard time as it is matching 11 year old paint.

You're a very good friend. I would have told her to be more careful next time and to use her insurance policy to get it fixed! Once you're done with this little project, you'll probably say the same thing next time!

Yea, the thought has crossed my mind! I just remember swapping fenders and some minor body work as a pretty easy weekend project. But the paint definitely wasn't as complicated. Oh well - do what I can and tell her to keep it dirty! Thanks for the advice.

 

[EricG]

Three stage is tricky to say the least. Use test panels to get the amount of material needed from the first base to the pearl coat correct. It will be real difficult to get it right on the first shot. Let the small test panels fully dry and compare them to the vehicle. You'll see how different one panel looks compared to the rest.

As for the gun, a decent HF unit will be fine. Definitely get a HVLP gun.

Thanks - i've got a beat-in tailgate I ca clean up for a test panel. Do you think a pint is enough? Withe the testing, I'm thinking that might be kind of tight...

 

[BCPDX]

It's all in the prep. After sanding the while thing down, wipe down fully with scotch brite, air hose it off, wipe it on wax and grease remover, immediately wipe it off, let dry, spray base coat, wait tell tacky before applying clear or if it's single stage-take your time. just remember less is more, keep the gun the same distance away from the fender during the entire job.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

Thanks - i've got a beat-in tailgate I ca clean up for a test panel. Do you think a pint is enough? Withe the testing, I'm thinking that might be kind of tight...

I would cut some sections out of the tailgate panel about 4"x4" sand them down and prime. A pint may be cutting it close. Are you using BC/CC or single stage?

 

[EricG]

I would cut some sections out of the tailgate panel about 4"x4" sand them down and prime. A pint may be cutting it close. Are you using BC/CC or single stage?

Sounds like I really need to do the tricoat thing to get the pearl effect - so base/mid/cc

 

[toomanytoyzz]

I've only sprayed single stage a handful of times and never a pearl job. I have sprayed three stage paint and was taught by a top notch painter that you need to do several test panels to get it right. It's always worked good for me, and I can assure you you will see differences in the panels.

The problem I see is if you choose to do three stage you'll have to buy a decent amount of additional products to get everything you need to do the job if you don't already have it. As far as I know decent urethane clear is only sold in gallon kits which isn't cheap and will require hardner and reducer. Add the cost of the base coat(s)/reducer and you'll have a pretty high material bill.

My advice is to tell her to bring the fender(only) to a decent bodyshop and have it done. They will have the paint mixing system and can probably do it for less or about the same price you can. The shop may try and throw a curve ball saying they will need the vehicle to blend it which is the proper way to do it, but that will require more time/material which equals more $$$. Tell them it's an '01 Subeee your not looking to do the red carpet treatment to. Get the fender back, put it on yourself and you will still be her hero.