Newbie getting Hosed

[Elbert]

This is one flavor of a GM TBI intake for 5.7, there are various intakes and versions of 5.7. So anyway there is a threaded boss just above the thermostat housing on the front of this intake setup for coolant hose fitting or plug (front is to the far left in this picture). and while its hard to see there is another threaded boss at the far rear of the intake just above the distributor hole in this picture which is also setup for a heater hose fitting or plug or some versions use a heater control valve.

go here and use the "zoom" feature on the pics for close up view

https://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-3704-Performer-T-B-I-Manifold/dp/B00062YAT4


likely will involve some custom setup...but thats easy....need to see top of intake without the air filter and good view of water pump top to make further recommendations.

 

[Elbert]

This is the way the standard rotation inlet and outlet look for long water pump on my 40.

View attachment 1345442

yeah thats old school...like my 78 z28 I had a long time ago, works well.

 

[Elbert]

google is your friend

5.7 TBI heater hose setup - Google Search


Again....heater hose setup unique to engine configuration. I forgot but some also had one of the heater hoses running to radiator. So not to be confusing....best choice is to mirror the setup of the Stock GM configuration that matches your engine model/version, sometimes thats not possible and you have to improvise.

 

[POTATO LAUNCHER]

Same set up in my 60 also but the reverse rotation pump doesn't have a return port. The fabricated inline return will work as long as it's plumbed to the valve correctly and the heater system isn't blocked.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Ok guys my buddy just got here got some pics of his truck that use to be mine the output of the motor is on the back passenger side of the intake the return goes into the radiator the aftermarket water pump he installed has a threaded port in the water pump.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Damnit have to re take pics file's are to big

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Pics hopefully

 

[Elbert]

heater hose setup not super critical....you need heater control valve functional and you need coolant flow. I would mirror the stock OEM configuration as noted where possible ( from the GM donor/engine setup).

 

[Brent82FJ60]

It's running a reverse serpentine set up. Doesn't look like the water pump has a port for the nipple.[/

heater hose setup not super critical....you need heater control valve functional and you need coolant flow. I would mirror the stock OEM configuration as noted where possible ( from the GM donor/engine setup).

 

[Brent82FJ60]

Ok. A lot of info. thanks. I got the heater working nicely after proper hose routing. Intake manifold port to top of control valve, then output to fabricated fitting at lower radiator hose. Correct assessment on the serpentine belt with the reverse water pump. Thanks again!

 

[Brent82FJ60]

Finished

 

[Brent82FJ60]

Here is how it ended up! That attachment is on the lower radiator hose.

 

[Willard]

Ok outside of your radiator issues.
let me understand this. you bought a 33 yo vehicle (at the time) drove it three times, put 2K and whatever time (not including the recent heater issues) into it. I fail to see the problem here.
As a comparison. I bought mine in April for about the same price and I am up to 3K (not including mods) and I have not painted yet.

The thing about older Land Cruisers in general is this.
if you buy one, and expect to drive it immediately after buying it without any work.
1. you paid over 10K for it and everything checked out perfect
2. you checked nothing and just drove it thinking they are bulletproof (they almost are)

I have never bought any vehicle for 6K or less that did not need something right away or damn close to the end of 1 year.

Land Cruisers in general are fantastic vehicles IF they have been cared for. If not it will cost $$$ to get them back to that state.
While it seems i was lucky that mine had a rebuilt engine and new front brakes. After upgrading the suspension, i pulled off the rear brakes. They need to be done. The brake lines outside what was replaced (from the caliper to the T fitting) all need to be done as they are iffy.
Could I drive it like that? Yep. Will I? Nope.
Once you start digging, your level of comfort on what needs to be done to feel safe have a reliable vehicle, and comfy interior will vary. But will cost to somewhere at some time.

Now compare a 33yo Vehicle to a 10 yo vehicle. Your yearly maintenance could be about the same for the same purchase price.
Few years ago I bought a 2006 Yukon. After replacing all bearings in the rear diff, all new brakes, new Tie rod ends and ball joints in the first year. 2K was cheap.


So while keeping an eye on the cash spent. Realize that you are spending it to repair off the the things the PO's did not. Essentially you are doing much needed maintenance. In the end you will have the feeling of:
1. I did it myself!
2. I did it myself, right and i know it is done and when it was done. Now I am confident in my vehicle.
Sorry bit ranty there.

 

[gregnash]

Don't think it is ranty @Willard .... I just think that we are starting to see a slew of people that purchase new vehicles but come looking for someone to fix it for them (e.g. just give them answers). This is not necessarily one of those cases but I have seen an increase in those across multiple boards, this it is just a sign of the times where people think it is "cool" to own an older vehicle but when it comes time to fix something they find out that they can't necessarily just plug a computer into it and be have it fixed.

Believe me, at least the OP actually went through some of the diagnostic steps, tried to figure things out and then came for more advice. We all get frustrated at times and just "want the damn thing to work". I think more the realization for the OP here was that he purchased a vehicle that was thought to be a "completed project" and really it turned out to not be one. I can see the frustration in that. Hell I purchased my bone stock, rusted (more than I knew) cruiser for $1500 plus two plane tickets and a nights stay in a hotel 3yrs ago. Since then I have put 10k miles on it and spent over $3k in repairs. Some of those where known others were not, most of that cost was eaten up by new tires (~$900) and a top-end rebuild this last winter when the WP went out (~$1000).

But like you said......
1. I did it myself; and
2. I did it myself, right and I know it is done and when it was done.

@Brent82FJ60 Good job with getting that little coupler built. Ya even went and did some small dimples/nubbins for the hoses to bite on. Hopefully this will resolve the majority of your issues and you can get to driving the truck more. However, you stated back in the beginning you went from a "faulty TBI" to a carbed solution. Why the drastic change?

 

[SteveH]

To the OP - RE: heater performance - your radiator cap looks old and tired in the photo, so if you're unsure of its age and condition, replace it. The proper cap pressure will help ensure good heater performance.

 

[norsk]

I don't think I will tell what I have spent on my 86 FJ60 over the past 8 years, its been tuition for sure.

so just read my signature on my motto now

"Its the features I need, not the money I spend that matter most"