Newb Tire / Lift Questions

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IMO, a rear locker, sliders, OME lift, and 33s make for a good well-rounded traveling and wheeling rig. It will go more places than you would think, without putting too much strain on stock parts.

As for the swaybar, simply remove the link from one side when you hit the trail. It takes about two minutes and you can still have it on for the ride to/from.

:beer:

Totally agree, only decision is 33x12.5's or 33x10.5's and that lift looks good with either. I might add shocks to that list because if you still have stock ones they are prob. toast
 
IMO, a rear locker, sliders, OME lift, and 33s make for a good well-rounded traveling and wheeling rig. It will go more places than you would think, without putting too much strain on stock parts.

As for the swaybar, simply remove the link from one side when you hit the trail. It takes about two minutes and you can still have it on for the ride to/from.

:beer:

It is possible to only disonnect one link? That definitely makes it easier. Better than removing the whole thing. Can there be any damage to the sway bar setup during off road that I need to be careful with it half disconnected?
 
I have seen people justify one inch body lifts to help get a better angle for their rock sliders. Does this have any merit? Is a 1 in. body lift helpful in any way? New suspension will be on my list so a body lift is not neccsarily needed other than roccker clearance.

Other than gas mileage are 12.5's ok? I love the look and the thought of more tire sounds beneficial. How is street driving? I do not want to have to deal with wandering all the time. Does a 12.5 in wide tire add to wandering?

A hi-lift is really high on my list as well as I have seen them be incredibly useful in snow wheeling this winter in Fresno / Bakersfield area.
 
IMHO

I have seen people justify one inch body lifts to help get a better angle for their rock sliders. Does this have any merit? Is a 1 in. body lift helpful in any way? New suspension will be on my list so a body lift is not neccsarily needed other than roccker clearance.

Other than gas mileage are 12.5's ok? I love the look and the thought of more tire sounds beneficial. How is street driving? I do not want to have to deal with wandering all the time. Does a 12.5 in wide tire add to wandering?

A hi-lift is really high on my list as well as I have seen them be incredibly useful in snow wheeling this winter in Fresno / Bakersfield area.

Body lifts are schwag

narrow tires have benefits too, pack snow, some mud condtions and if you don't want to wander on the road thinner is better
 
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Body lifts are schwag

narrow tires have benefits too, pack snow, some mud condtions and if you don't want to wander on the road thinner is better

I plan on purchasing two sets of tires. I want one set solely for wheeling weekends that is knobby and bias ply. The second set will be for daily driving and trips to the snow. I’m thinking a pair of A/T radials. Which tire’s have the best stud rating for snow? I know the BFG A/T’s have a decent snow stud rating. Wheel width is open for both. I’m going back and forth between 10.5 and 12.5. Most of my wheeling will be on mountain trails with rocks. I will try to avoid mud completely and snow wheeling may occur once in awhile.
Is considering two sets of tires for these applications excessive? I don’t want to give up traction off trail just because I want gas mileage and traveling tot eh snow.
 
There's nothing wrong with the BFG AT. For web-wheeling they are inadequate, but in the real world they work fine. Granted, they don't look as cool as MTs, but unless you're knee deep in thick mud, they work just as good.

If you get 10.5s, they'll fit your stock rims.
 
I don't feel that a radial tire is as good as a bias ply tire. This is my main argument for offroading and having a second set. I like how bias ply tires get a better footprint, almost like tank treads when aired down. Radials do not give as nice a tank track. This has been my observation. Please tell me if people feel differently about this.
-Randy
 
Rather than....

There's a better answer than getting two sets of tires/rims plus what happens when you need to drive to Moab? gonna trailer another set of tires?

Put 33x12.5 Goodyear MTR's on 15x8 rims with 3.5-3.6 Backspace. It's known as the poormans beadlock. MTR's air down real well and on 8" rims you can take them down to 15-18 psi no problem. They are pretty quiet on the highway, great mudders and great rock crawlers.

Get one expensive set that fits most of your needs rather than two sets.
 
There's a better answer than getting two sets of tires/rims plus what happens when you need to drive to Moab? gonna trailer another set of tires?

Put 33x12.5 Goodyear MTR's on 15x8 rims with 3.5-3.6 Backspace. It's known as the poormans beadlock. MTR's air down real well and on 8" rims you can take them down to 15-18 psi no problem. They are pretty quiet on the highway, great mudders and great rock crawlers.

Get one expensive set that fits most of your needs rather than two sets.
You make a good point about travelling far away. I'll take a look at those.
 
Thanks for the link. I'll read up.
 
The AAL's look enticing for my stock rig just getting started. Where do i purchase a leaf and is there a certain size to get? Installation isn't too technical from what I see...
 
There are short and long aal(s). The general consensus is shorts for lots of weight, longs for lift+ride quaility.

MAF Add-A-Leaf Springs

Thanks for the link.
The Man-A-Fre AAL’s come in short and long. They say the short ones are for weight (stiff) and the long ones are for softer ride (not so stiff.) Here are a few pics of my rig. Do my leaf springs look like they sag a lot? Will adding a leaf give me enough lift to clear 33 x 12.5’s without rubbing? They are not flat but by no means do they look new and working perfectly. My 88 FJ62 has 280,000 miles on it. I’m leaning towards the short stiff ones so that carrying weight doesn’t wreck them immediately.

randysnewcar004.jpg
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