Newb Intro (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
36
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New York Metro Area
Just picked up a one owner, accident-free, rust-free, damage-free white 1999 LC with 127k miles. It was a dealer trade-in. This is my first LC.

Bone stock. No mechanical issues. Exterior is in good shape. Interior also in good shape, however, the leather seats were filthy with some surface cracks in wear areas. PO must've used bad product on the seats because they were in pretty rough shape. I treated with Leatherique (Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine Clean) and now 80% of the surfaces look and feel brand new.

Just a few minor issues:
- antenna doesn't go up or down (I hear the motor running though)
- rear bumper cover has light cosmetic blemishes (missing passenger side reflector)
- most of the black paint flaked off of the factory roof rack (nothing a little plasti-dip can't fix)
- automatic driver's window functions in "hitting something" mode when going up - automatically goes back down to mid-level position
- rear window wiper does not spray fluid
- white paint has embedded dirt around the edges of the windows/trim (any tips on how to clean?)

I haven't discovered any other issues (yet).

Paid $8,500. Is that a fair price based on the information above? Thanks.

I'll post my plans for this rig as soon as I know what they are.



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Joined
Apr 6, 2014
Messages
118
Location
Prescott Arizona
Welcome to the LC family. I'm a new kid on the block also. I've had my 2006 LC for about two months. What are your plans? Are you keeping it stock or is this a build project?
 
Joined
Jun 24, 2013
Messages
1,754
Location
Chico, CA
Definitely a fair price, looks fine for that. No rust underneath?

For the rear wiper, try sticking a VERY thin wire down the spray nozzle. You don't want to open it up with a wide needle or anything, so find something thin. When I got mine none of the nozzles sprayed. I was able to make all six in the front work and the back works pretty well too just by doing that. Anyway that's just a thought before you tear into the rest of the system.

Also, can you post pics of the seats before and after if you have them? Just after works if you don't have the before :) Cheers on the sweet new ride!
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
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2,235
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SLC
Nice color!

One of the first fixes - and how I found Mud - was the antenna.

Look in the FAQ - the plastic strip at the base of the antenna breaks over time and is relatively easy to replace.
 

TheForger

GOLD Star
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
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Little Rock, Arkansas
My rear whisper did the same thing. If you get a twist-tie and burn it, you should just have the thin metal wire that runs down the center left. That's the perfect width to stick into the wiper fluid hole and free the debris that's clogging it. I also disconnected the fluid hose next to the top hinges and put some duct tape and clear tubing in the end of my shop vac and sucked it out the other end.


Official Jeep Recovery Vehicle
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
36
Location
New York Metro Area
Welcome to the LC family. I'm a new kid on the block also. I've had my 2006 LC for about two months. What are your plans? Are you keeping it stock or is this a build project?

Thanks Nukem!

So far, I just plan to fix the issues that I listed. After that I might make some cosmetic changes - paint the bumpers and the side trim white (body color), clay bar and polish out the imperfections, plasti-dip the wheels black. Also thinking about replacing the stock side steps with rock sliders. I love the look of ARB and Slee bumpers, but I don't want to get a lift kit or aftermarket suspension because I love the smooth ride of the stock set up. Might go with larger 285/75/16 wheels. I don't currently have plans to do any extreme rock crawling, but that could change - so all purely for looks for now.

What about you? What have you done / plan to do with yours?
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
36
Location
New York Metro Area
Definitely a fair price, looks fine for that. No rust underneath?

For the rear wiper, try sticking a VERY thin wire down the spray nozzle. You don't want to open it up with a wide needle or anything, so find something thin. When I got mine none of the nozzles sprayed. I was able to make all six in the front work and the back works pretty well too just by doing that. Anyway that's just a thought before you tear into the rest of the system.

Also, can you post pics of the seats before and after if you have them? Just after works if you don't have the before :) Cheers on the sweet new ride!

Hey Andrew! Thanks for the feedback on the price. Seems to be a very fair price based on my research, but always nice to get expert opinions.

Actually, no rust underneath. I know, shocking for a 15 year old car in New York.

So far, joining this forum has already helped me - I followed your (and TheForger's) tip for using a thin wire (I burned the cover off the paper of a twist-tie) and stuck it in the clogged wiper fluid hole - worked like a charm! Yay!... 1 item off my minor issues list. THANKS!
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
36
Location
New York Metro Area
Nice color!

One of the first fixes - and how I found Mud - was the antenna.

Look in the FAQ - the plastic strip at the base of the antenna breaks over time and is relatively easy to replace.

I never thought that I'd ever get an LC in white, but it was a local sale and a deal that I just couldn't pass up. I don't love it in its current state, but I do plan to give it a tasteful stormtrooper treatment (black and white). The color has definitely grown on me.

I actually did some reading about the antenna the other day. You're right, possibly an easy fix. Didn't find any info on how to remove the mast though. Do I need a special tool to unscrew the top of the antenna base?

Thanks!
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
36
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New York Metro Area
My rear whisper did the same thing. If you get a twist-tie and burn it, you should just have the thin metal wire that runs down the center left. That's the perfect width to stick into the wiper fluid hole and free the debris that's clogging it. I also disconnected the fluid hose next to the top hinges and put some duct tape and clear tubing in the end of my shop vac and sucked it out the other end.


Official Jeep Recovery Vehicle

THANKS! This totally did the trick. All I had to do was stick the wire in and take it back out.
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
36
Location
New York Metro Area
Definitely a fair price, looks fine for that. No rust underneath?

For the rear wiper, try sticking a VERY thin wire down the spray nozzle. You don't want to open it up with a wide needle or anything, so find something thin. When I got mine none of the nozzles sprayed. I was able to make all six in the front work and the back works pretty well too just by doing that. Anyway that's just a thought before you tear into the rest of the system.

Also, can you post pics of the seats before and after if you have them? Just after works if you don't have the before :) Cheers on the sweet new ride!

I did take some before pics (which I will post shortly). I'll have to take some after pics on the next sunny day (will post as well). It was very dark and gloomy out today.

Did you (or do you) have to clean/restore your leather seats too?
 

devildogcruiser25

The spice must flow
Joined
Jul 11, 2011
Messages
2,044
Location
San Antonio
I had the same issue with an auto window in my wifes altima. To fix it, I pulled the door apart, and got access to the power cord for the window motor. I rolled the window all the way up, unplugged the motor and then plugged it back it. This solved the problem because it "reset" the memory of where it has to be when it stopped. My guess is someone replaced the motor, had the window rolled half way up and plugged everything back in. I think this, because that's what I did when I had this problem.

To simplify all that.

Pull door trim
roll window all the way up
unplug power from window motor
plug back in

should fix your problem.
 
Joined
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Messages
36
Location
New York Metro Area
I had the same issue with an auto window in my wifes altima. To fix it, I pulled the door apart, and got access to the power cord for the window motor. I rolled the window all the way up, unplugged the motor and then plugged it back it. This solved the problem because it "reset" the memory of where it has to be when it stopped. My guess is someone replaced the motor, had the window rolled half way up and plugged everything back in. I think this, because that's what I did when I had this problem.

To simplify all that.

Pull door trim
roll window all the way up
unplug power from window motor
plug back in

should fix your problem.
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
36
Location
New York Metro Area
I had the same issue with an auto window in my wifes altima. To fix it, I pulled the door apart, and got access to the power cord for the window motor. I rolled the window all the way up, unplugged the motor and then plugged it back it. This solved the problem because it "reset" the memory of where it has to be when it stopped. My guess is someone replaced the motor, had the window rolled half way up and plugged everything back in. I think this, because that's what I did when I had this problem.

To simplify all that.

Pull door trim
roll window all the way up
unplug power from window motor
plug back in

should fix your problem.


Thanks!
Worth a try. What's the best way to pull the door trim? Pry tool? Should I be prepared to replace cbroken clips?
 
Joined
Jun 24, 2013
Messages
1,754
Location
Chico, CA
I did take some before pics (which I will post shortly). I'll have to take some after pics on the next sunny day (will post as well). It was very dark and gloomy out today.

Did you (or do you) have to clean/restore your leather seats too?
At some point I'd really like to, mine aren't that bad but I bet I could get the leather to feel a bit more supple with some effort.

As for removing your door panel, check this out: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/door-panel-window-regulator-removal.218046/
There's also threads if you do a search on the auto up feature. I know others have had this issue and I believe have been able to fix it.
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,235
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SLC
Antenna removal: Yea, there's probably a tool. I think I just used a pair of needle nose pliers covered with a light cloth to prevent scratching to remove the top cover. IIRC the antenna just pulled out of the motor since the plastic teeth had broken in two in the motor.

Sliders: I'm sorta partial to the Metal Tech ones. Still on my list.

Door/interior Trim: Get one of those pry tools off of Amazon. They're much better than a flat head covered w/ tape. #justsayin

Tires: 285/75/16 doesn't require any mods, but you might also consider 295/75/16s if you don't get a bumper/tire carrier, the spare will fit.

White Color: :meh:. Same here. Not the top of the list, but it was super clean and very well maintained. Passed up a Pacific Blue Metallic. :crybaby:
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
36
Location
New York Metro Area
Antenna removal: Yea, there's probably a tool. I think I just used a pair of needle nose pliers covered with a light cloth to prevent scratching to remove the top cover. IIRC the antenna just pulled out of the motor since the plastic teeth had broken in two in the motor.

Sliders: I'm sorta partial to the Metal Tech ones. Still on my list.

Door/interior Trim: Get one of those pry tools off of Amazon. They're much better than a flat head covered w/ tape. #justsayin

Tires: 285/75/16 doesn't require any mods, but you might also consider 295/75/16s if you don't get a bumper/tire carrier, the spare will fit.

White Color: :meh:. Same here. Not the top of the list, but it was super clean and very well maintained. Passed up a Pacific Blue Metallic. :crybaby:


I'll try doing that to remove the antenna. What did you replace yours with?

I dig Metal Tech sliders too. I also like White-Knuckle. Looks like the MT sliders are about $120 more though, so if I do sliders, I might just go for the more economical option (unless the additional $120 actually equates to better value as far as quality).

Did some research on tire size... I do like the look of 295/75/16, but it sounds like the difference in ride feel as compared to 285/75/16 will definitely be noticeable. I'd like to stay as close to stock ride feel as possible.

Thanks!
 
Joined
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Messages
2,235
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SLC
I'll try doing that to remove the antenna. What did you replace yours with?

@kongdom I replaced it with another OEM antenna. I think I got it on fleabay but can't remember. It was relatively inexpensive and so far, good for 75k+. Still going strong, knock on wood.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
New York Metro Area
@kongdom I replaced it with another OEM antenna. I think I got it on fleabay but can't remember. It was relatively inexpensive and so far, good for 75k+. Still going strong, knock on wood.

@SmoothLC Forgot to ask - so you had to replace the entire unit, not just the the mast? To do that, you have to remove the inside fender panel in the front wheel well, correct?... which ends up breaking all the clips, correct? I recall reading that on the forum somewhere. Thanks!
 

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