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Tredwards said:
I plan to do the 2nd and 3rd row belts first so I can get it back on the road, then do the front seats on another weekend.

I did this 2x on the 80 so it wasn't hard, it was much more difficult the first time on the 80. Here's roughly what i did

1) Remove 3rd row and second row seats
2)Remove front seats - harder due to the wires underneath as well as the wiring for the headrest DVD players - finally found the wiring box underneath the seat and seats and removed the seat
3)removed the door sill on the rear
4)removed all the plastic inserts on the floor (they need a torx bit)
5)removed all the interior molding - most just pull gently. the rearmost sections also have a screw to remove and some of the seatbelts have to be detached to remove them.
6)removed the center console - some screws on outside and 2 in back behind cup holder. removed the center front of the console by lifting up
7)removed all the sheet metal in center console to be painted with por 15.
8)unbolted the components under the passenger seat to move so can clean all the way to the bottom
9)unbolted the components under the drivers seat to move so can clean - this is the fan. cannot completely move but can lift slightly to vaccuum under
10)used simple green and a brush to clean floor of the vehicle after carpet removed
11)took the carpet and used a spray carpet cleaner on the bad areas - let it sit. then used the pressure washer to apply a soap carpet cleaner. then pressure washed the carpet and hung to dry.

next plans to remove the seat belts and clean as well as clean the door panels - will like clean in place.
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Be sure to pull the bottoms off the second row seats and clean out all the crud. Amazing how much crap accumulates in those hidden areas.

Nice looking truck, by the way!
 
Tredwards said:
Here is some more detailed info @RyanStl

Just pulled the center console like 3 times tonight to get the bolts all right.

1. Pull up the front part that has the shifter in it. The whole piece just pops in, no screws. Pull up at the cup holders and it should pop out. Twist the knobs off the shifters. Then unplug the seat heaters, pwr switch and ahc switch. Remove it.
2. Remove the rear cupholder
3. Remove the 2 screws that were in the console behind the rear cupholder.
4. Remove all the screws in the console. On the sides. Can be accessed by moving seats forward or backward.
5. The back part of the console now pops off.
6. Unplug the rear console stereo controls ( mine were sticky so i disassembled and cleaned) and the center console cigarette plug. These are located in the back of the console
7. Remove the 2 bolts inside the bottom of the console. Now the rear portion of the console lifts up.
8. Remove the front portion that extends from the dash to the console by removing 2 screws and then lifting up by pivoting at the front part.
9. If desired you can remove the cd changer now and then the sheet metal underneath. There are several plastic clips holding the wiring to the sheet metal.

Make sure to remember where the bolts go, certain types go in certain places. This is why I had to remove a couple times.
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This is gold, thank you. I need to replace the light by the shifter in ours.
 
@Tredwards - No, but maybe the LX is different than the LC.

At least in my MY 1999, it has a plastic-type tray in both the DS and PS front foot wells or where you place your feet while sitting in the front seats.

I didn't remove the trays and wondered if your rig has the same and if you removed them. Thanks.
 
Yea I don't have that I believe.

Main issue I am having now is upon reinstalling the front seat belts I have the light on for seat belt issue requiring lexus dealer to correct. Trying to get techstream working on my 64bit windows 8 to see if I can fix. Anyone else know of a fix. Unfortunately disconnecting and reconnecting the battery didn't help.
 
Ok so here's the current issue. I removed and cleaned all the seatbelts. The front ds and ps have a connector for the abs circuit. After reinstalling the seatbelts I have a abs light in the bottom right which the manual says can only be fixed at the dealer. I finally got techstream going and there are 4 codes.

1. B0111 - open in side squib (RH) circuit.
2. B0116 - open in side squib (LH) circuit
3. B0126 - LH seat buckle switch
4. B1153 - seat position sensor assembly

Now the seats are not installed yet so I am assuming that may play a part. I was very gentle with the wiring so I do not feel that is an issue and it would be wierd to be bilateral. It appears to reset you have to clear with techstream and the turn key to lock position for 20 sec and then turn back to on. I may try this tomorrow when the seats are installed. Anyone dealt with this before or have any ideas.
 
Ok well problem solved. Installed front 2 seats and no more codes. I was able to clear them with techstream and they stayed gone. No more srs/abs or whatever light. So hopefully when I install the carpet and trim tomorrow it all bolts up correctly and the lights stay away.

I also got techstream finally installed. Here is the site I used for help. worked great. I have no computer programming capability but with a little patience i was able to follow the instructions. took about 8 tries and 2 hrs but got it to work.

Techstream TIS VCI Installation Guide (64-bit OS) Including All Software Needed! - Scion FR-S Forum | Subaru BRZ Forum | Toyota 86 GT 86 Forum | AS1 Forum - FT86CLUB

Once again, a big shout out to @beno for the help with my questions tonight. I do not have anyone locally to help with this kind of technical stuff. It is awesome having someone like Onur around to call with questions and order parts from (as he knows way better than me what i need for a given job). Thanks again man, I really appreciate it.
 
It is finally finished. Got done at 1130 last night. All back together. Took about 3-4 days of work. If doing this job I second what was said above about cleaning the plastic cover below the 2nd row seats. Disgusting mess. Only issue is the scratch on the passenger window switch trim. Anyone have a good method to cover up?

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Installing new cupholder and rear of console. I initially tried just the cu cup holder but even after cleaning and working on the old rear console cover it wouldn't close correctly. So just figured I would replace it all. Thanks @beno.

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Tredwards said:
It is finally finished. Got done at 1130 last night. All back together. Took about 3-4 days of work. If doing this job I second what was said above about cleaning the plastic cover below the 2nd row seats. Disgusting mess. Only issue is the scratch on the passenger window switch trim. Anyone have a good method to cover up?
Click to expand...

What plastic cover below 2nd row seats?
 
I have been working on the 2005 LX470. I previously checked pressures and got 7.0 front and 7.1 rear. I then changed out the rear springs for new OEM springs today. I repeated the pressures after completion and got 7.4 front and 7.0 rear. I am planning on waiting about 1-2 wks or so for them to settle and then start trying to get the pressures to normal. Are the pressures now reliable or should I wait to adjust?

I guess the next steps are:

1)tighten front torsion bars slightly to get to around 6.9 then repeat pressures and see what happens.
2)If rear pressures are still too high then get spacers for the rear. I plan on keeping this vehicle stock height. Would you recommend 15mm or 30mm spacers for the rear if needed. I am worried these may increase the stinkbug effect - am i right? Are there any preferable brands?

Are there any other steps or tricks I should know of?

I plan on updating this thread with my findings.

Stock springs for LX470 that I used are
PS - 48231-6A730
DS - 48231-6A740

Thanks,
Trey

PM[/GALLERY]
Rear Springs 1

Rear Springs 1

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Rear Springs 2

Rear Springs 2

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Changed the front and rear differential fluid. Got a 5gal pump from amazon - see below. made this a much easier process than previously. Used simple coastal 80w90 gear oil for front and rear diffs. Plan to use mobil 75w90 syn for the transfer change tomorrow. Also planning to extend the diff breathers using some 1/4" fuel line and fuel filters. Also repeated the front and rear AHC pressures after the fluid change and replacing the rear springs with oem. New pressures 7.0 front and 6.5 rear so within spec. Considering getting 15mm spacers for the rear to bring the rear pressures down even a little more. side to side front level within spec as well and fluid changes 10 gradations from L to H setting. All is well so far
diff fluid change

diff fluid change

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