New to me GX470
- Thread starter Mike NXP
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Unfortunately it lacks the flatulence appsWhat the heck is that? The dash from the new Tesla Cybertruck?
- Thread starter
- #23
Does anyone have tips on how to :
- Turn off the auto locking feature when put in drive
- turn on / adjust volume of beeps when locked.
Discovered Club Lexus website. I will try this later in regards to the auto lock functions:
a) Locking linked with the shift position
- All the door are locked automatically when the selector lever is moved out of the "P" position with the ignition switch in the "ON" position. This is suppose to be the default setting for new vehicles.
(b) Unlocking linked with the shift position
- All the door are unlocked automatically when the selector lever is moved to the "P" position with the switch in the "ON" position.
(c) Locking linked with the vehicle speed
- All the doors are automatically locked when the vehicle speed reached 12 mph or higher. However, if any door is unlocked during driving, the auto function will not operate until the unlocked door is opened once.
(d) All the doors are unlocked automatically when the driver's door is opened within 10 seconds after the ignition switch is turned from "ON" to the "ACC" or "LOCK" position.
Setting the functions
1. Close all the doors.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position.
3. Within 10 seconds after the ignition switch is turned to the "ON" position;
+To set function (a)
Push and hold the front of the power door lock switch for 5 seconds with the selector lever in the "P" position.
+To set function (b)
Push and hold the rear of the power door lock switch for 5 seconds with the selector switch in the "P" position.
+To set fuction (c)
Push and hold the front of the power door lock switch for 5 seconds with the selector switch in any position except "P".
+To set function (d)
Push and hold the rear of the power door lock switch for 5 seconds with the selector switch in any position except "P".
All the doors are automatically locked and unlocked when you release the power door lock switch. This indicates that the functions is set. If all the doors do not lock and unlock, the time the switch was held may have been too short or too long. Perform the procedure over again starting at step 1.
** Update : previous procedure does not work for me on my 2004 but will try again
**** Updated again As others have noted , the 5 second timing seems to be critical. After a dozen attempts I'm back to locking when put in drive and unlocking in park, success.
Next is to try to figure out how to disable the auto lock, after unlocking when outside the vehicle .
- Turn off the auto locking feature when put in drive
- turn on / adjust volume of beeps when locked.
Discovered Club Lexus website. I will try this later in regards to the auto lock functions:
a) Locking linked with the shift position
- All the door are locked automatically when the selector lever is moved out of the "P" position with the ignition switch in the "ON" position. This is suppose to be the default setting for new vehicles.
(b) Unlocking linked with the shift position
- All the door are unlocked automatically when the selector lever is moved to the "P" position with the switch in the "ON" position.
(c) Locking linked with the vehicle speed
- All the doors are automatically locked when the vehicle speed reached 12 mph or higher. However, if any door is unlocked during driving, the auto function will not operate until the unlocked door is opened once.
(d) All the doors are unlocked automatically when the driver's door is opened within 10 seconds after the ignition switch is turned from "ON" to the "ACC" or "LOCK" position.
Setting the functions
1. Close all the doors.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position.
3. Within 10 seconds after the ignition switch is turned to the "ON" position;
+To set function (a)
Push and hold the front of the power door lock switch for 5 seconds with the selector lever in the "P" position.
+To set function (b)
Push and hold the rear of the power door lock switch for 5 seconds with the selector switch in the "P" position.
+To set fuction (c)
Push and hold the front of the power door lock switch for 5 seconds with the selector switch in any position except "P".
+To set function (d)
Push and hold the rear of the power door lock switch for 5 seconds with the selector switch in any position except "P".
All the doors are automatically locked and unlocked when you release the power door lock switch. This indicates that the functions is set. If all the doors do not lock and unlock, the time the switch was held may have been too short or too long. Perform the procedure over again starting at step 1.
** Update : previous procedure does not work for me on my 2004 but will try again
**** Updated again As others have noted , the 5 second timing seems to be critical. After a dozen attempts I'm back to locking when put in drive and unlocking in park, success.
Next is to try to figure out how to disable the auto lock, after unlocking when outside the vehicle .
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- Thread starter
- #24
Can anyone confirm the bolt and thread pitch needed for the skid plates?
I've got a handful of extra from my 100 series and they sort of start to thread but then get tight . I assume the threads are just rusty and need a tap but I want to confirm first.
I saw some reference to m6 but I believe they are m8 and I'm not sure of thread pitch.
I've got a handful of extra from my 100 series and they sort of start to thread but then get tight . I assume the threads are just rusty and need a tap but I want to confirm first.
I saw some reference to m6 but I believe they are m8 and I'm not sure of thread pitch.
8x1.25
- Thread starter
- #27
Ah, that explains it. I was just leaning down under the front end poking an M8 up in there and thinking it was too large.
Thanks for the replies above
Does anyone have a solution for turning off the auto lock feature; when you unlock your doors but don't go and open the door, maybe 10-15 seconds later it locks back up. It also does it when you do the; hold the unlock button to roll down the windows deal..... If you don't open the door right away it locks it back up. I prefer an unlocked door to a locked whenever possible.
Thanks for the replies above
Does anyone have a solution for turning off the auto lock feature; when you unlock your doors but don't go and open the door, maybe 10-15 seconds later it locks back up. It also does it when you do the; hold the unlock button to roll down the windows deal..... If you don't open the door right away it locks it back up. I prefer an unlocked door to a locked whenever possible.
Do you have techstream? I used that software to turn off and/or change many settings. Daytime running lights, steering wheel movement, 1 click to open all doors, etc. If you get that software working it has many options for changing things. There is a “Techstream in 5 minutes” post on this site with all details, and techstream is good to have in general. I didn’t read all the posts in this thread, may have already been suggested
- Thread starter
- #29
Good suggestion. I;ve messed around with it in the past and seems like it would be good to have access to it again but no I don't currently have it.
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- #30
Today's random thought, does anyone run a bike rack that just straps around the rear door ? I see plenty of options out there. It it seems like most searched turn up results for hitch mounted bike racks for the gx , maybe the door mount isn't a good solution ? I don't need anything to rugged on this vehicle , just light duty bike hauler to local trails
Not exactly an answer to your question, but I'm a bit of an oddball but run a roof-mount. I've had both Yakimas (before I got a thru-axle bike) and now Kuats. My bikes are all 17 to 26 pounds, so they aren't too bad to lift onto the roof of the GX. I grab the bike by the top tube, step on the rock slider, then stand on the back tire and set the bike in the rack. I don't see why you couldn't do the same thing with the OEM side steps. We've hauled them thousands of miles this way when towing our camper and taken them on/off dozens and dozens of times.
If you have a 30+ pound full suspension MTB this might not be the best option. You also have to be careful about loading/unloading. If you are parked off-camber it can be difficult to get the bike on/off. Hitch mount racks are just too much $$$ IMO and would impede cargo door access. I think the rear door could easily handle a bike from a weight perspective (the Prado has a spare tire there, after all), but I've not seen anyone try that on a GX.
If you have a 30+ pound full suspension MTB this might not be the best option. You also have to be careful about loading/unloading. If you are parked off-camber it can be difficult to get the bike on/off. Hitch mount racks are just too much $$$ IMO and would impede cargo door access. I think the rear door could easily handle a bike from a weight perspective (the Prado has a spare tire there, after all), but I've not seen anyone try that on a GX.
IMHO the rear door of the gx is a part I don’t like to mess with. I recently had to replace the actuator motor and it was a pain. I got a swing out hitch mount for $100 on Facebook marketplace and it’s been great. Never seen a door mounted rack on a gx so I’m certainly no expert but it seems like roof or hitch mount would be better.
- Thread starter
- #33
Awesome thanks for all of the tips. I think on this vehicle I'm going to try and continue to theme of, keep it simple. I'll just open the back door and put the bike in the trunk area with the seats folded up and a moving blanket laid down lol problem solved, no money spent. Unlike my other rigs that need to fit a slew of camping and recovery gear, I'm like the idea of just keeping this thing a bit less over done. ( refer back to this post next year when I have like full armor and 17 light bars )
The roof idea does seem cool and I'd like to get my 100 series setup like that at some point. I don't ride one of those out of control over priced things they call mountain bikes now a days but I am rocking a full steel frame Surly which isn't too light, but I'm sure I could huck it up to the roof if I had to.
Next up for this vehicle
- Wait for the strange man who is fixing my amp to reply and hopefully say it's fixed
- Think I should get some new tires, these shake a lot until they warm up and they are 15 years old. Nokian Outpost APT seem like a good choice that follows along with the keep it simple theme...Shoot I might even just put some highway tires on and take the cruiser out if the snow gets rough.
- It sorta sits a bit crooked when parked but it could be my parking lot at work. When I fire it up the compressor doesn't run for too long and it seems to be even so moving on for now but will keep an eye on it.
The roof idea does seem cool and I'd like to get my 100 series setup like that at some point. I don't ride one of those out of control over priced things they call mountain bikes now a days but I am rocking a full steel frame Surly which isn't too light, but I'm sure I could huck it up to the roof if I had to.
Next up for this vehicle
- Wait for the strange man who is fixing my amp to reply and hopefully say it's fixed
- Think I should get some new tires, these shake a lot until they warm up and they are 15 years old. Nokian Outpost APT seem like a good choice that follows along with the keep it simple theme...Shoot I might even just put some highway tires on and take the cruiser out if the snow gets rough.
- It sorta sits a bit crooked when parked but it could be my parking lot at work. When I fire it up the compressor doesn't run for too long and it seems to be even so moving on for now but will keep an eye on it.
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- Thread starter
- #34
License plate put up a little fight. A few broken clips and some busted knuckles later and I removed the speed nut thing and just put a nut and bolt through to hold it in place.
Making some progress on the amp repair, sorta.
I'd say 100% of research I've done has led to people repairing / replacing their amp. Not a single case of a dead head unit but this guy told me to stop looking on the internet and to trust him.......yeah sure.......So anyway......I'm going to try and pull the cassette player out which I think is pretty easy to do and send that over to him. Repair is $180 and we'll see what happens.. Hopefully I don't break the dash plastic / radio cover
He said that this is most likely the problem and anything beyond that will involve broken wiring somewhere between the head unit / amp. There was signs of mouse debris under the hood but I don't think they did any damage.
Making some progress on the amp repair, sorta.
- The audio tech guy said the amp is working fine and he has been testing it often to make sure of it. The exception is the cooling fan isn't working and he replaced it for $15
- Ok so what's going on? He claims the head unit on the vehicle is the problem. I got all upset thinking this was my NAV unit and the dollar signs started to flash before my eye..... but he said no, the cassette player under the nav is where all of the audio is fed through, even from the cd deck.
- He also mentioned the nav beeps and the lady talking are totally separate systems so when diagnosing a no audio issue , that has nothing to do with it. Another tip was that if you can access the fade / balance controls and everything works, that means your amp is communicating properly.
I'd say 100% of research I've done has led to people repairing / replacing their amp. Not a single case of a dead head unit but this guy told me to stop looking on the internet and to trust him.......yeah sure.......So anyway......I'm going to try and pull the cassette player out which I think is pretty easy to do and send that over to him. Repair is $180 and we'll see what happens.. Hopefully I don't break the dash plastic / radio cover
He said that this is most likely the problem and anything beyond that will involve broken wiring somewhere between the head unit / amp. There was signs of mouse debris under the hood but I don't think they did any damage.
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Even after the audio quit working, I could still hear the amp fan running...unless it just recently quit.
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- #36
This guy who is fixing the amp is kind of a jerk , couldn't care any less about my input on the issue.......I pissed him off when I said , it appears to be a common issue and fixing the amp seems to b the fix.....
Ugh I dont know , im going to get the amp back , re install , and do some more testing .....no big deal will figure it out eventually
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- Thread starter
- #37
Did the sound fail and then never come back again ? Any speaker popping noises ? The amp guy asked a few questions about symptoms when it died but I wasn't sure.
Maybe it is the head unit, his logic makes sense sorta. If I can adjust balance and fade then then amp is communicating with the speakers , I guess.
I also just learned I can access this like diagnosis menu in the nav screen, maybe that will provide some clues once the amp is back in
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- #38
Hey GX world, looking for some help with
A) do our amps have cables plugged in to every port or just the two larger ports? I forgot to take pics when I disassembled . I don't see any other connectors so we should be good with just two connectors plugged in
B) the audio guy who worked on my amp is advising I send him the radio head unit. I dove in with some trim removal tools but felt i was forcing it a bit too much
>> Any tips on how to remove the dash / radio bezel? I couldn't find any good forums with this info
Found a good video for future reference
A) do our amps have cables plugged in to every port or just the two larger ports? I forgot to take pics when I disassembled . I don't see any other connectors so we should be good with just two connectors plugged in
B) the audio guy who worked on my amp is advising I send him the radio head unit. I dove in with some trim removal tools but felt i was forcing it a bit too much
>> Any tips on how to remove the dash / radio bezel? I couldn't find any good forums with this info
Found a good video for future reference
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The radio will come out with the Nav unit in one assembly after the removal of many panels that surround the Nav as well as the side panels of the center console.
Yup. Two harnesses on the amp.
Before outright failure, the audio would intermittently cut out, as if the volume was turned down. Imagine the horror thinking this was the case, just to have the audio come back on at 14 on a scale of 10…
Yup. Two harnesses on the amp.
Before outright failure, the audio would intermittently cut out, as if the volume was turned down. Imagine the horror thinking this was the case, just to have the audio come back on at 14 on a scale of 10…
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- #40
Lol good info. I'm going to share that with the audio guy and see if he still thinks I should remove the radio. There's really not much else that could have failed.The radio will come out with the Nav unit in one assembly after the removal of many panels that surround the Nav as well as the side panels of the center console.
Yup. Two harnesses on the amp.
Before outright failure, the audio would intermittently cut out, as if the volume was turned down. Imagine the horror thinking this was the case, just to have the audio come back on at 14 on a scale of 10…
I just linked to a video on my previous post for removal of the radio bezel, yeah geez I didn't realize the lower trim has to come out too... . Glad I checked , I was just prying away at the wood trim like a mad man before thinking, hmm I should stop being so stupid before I break something
