New to me FZJ73
- Thread starter JuanJ
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #23
Hello,
Busy days, I could not post earlier.
It was time to remove the glove box, clean up, look for non-factory wires and reset the ECU.
Following the engine FSM procedure for keeping fuel mileage at bay, so to speak, I tightened the accelerator cable and cleaned the carburetor contacts. Next was resetting the ECU, which is done by unplugging the wire harness, waiting 10 seconds and plugging it again.
The glove box removed. No strange wires found but a lot of dust.
The 1FZ engine ECU, or so I thought.
Next to it I found an Emissions Control computer.
More in the next post.
Juan
Busy days, I could not post earlier.
It was time to remove the glove box, clean up, look for non-factory wires and reset the ECU.
Following the engine FSM procedure for keeping fuel mileage at bay, so to speak, I tightened the accelerator cable and cleaned the carburetor contacts. Next was resetting the ECU, which is done by unplugging the wire harness, waiting 10 seconds and plugging it again.
The glove box removed. No strange wires found but a lot of dust.
The 1FZ engine ECU, or so I thought.
Next to it I found an Emissions Control computer.
More in the next post.
Juan
- Thread starter
- #24
Hello,
Continued.
The ECU turned out to be an "Electronic Throttle Control Unit," according to the FSM. It reminded me of the governors in the diesel engines I worked with in the field, ages ago.
Part number: 88650-60181. It is a 12V unit. Picture after cleaning it up.
Side view. There is a knob for adjusting idle engine speed. Note the 9-pin connector.
This is the emissions control computer. This Cruiser has EGR piping. I guess this little beast controls the EGR ratio.
Part number: 89550-60360.
Side view.
This is the connector.
I cleaned up, applied dielectric grease and reconnected.
Before reassembly, I turned the RPM knob to L. Then I fired up the engine and checked the idle speed. Using trial and error, I dialed up the knob until the engine idled at the manual's recommended value, 650 - 700 rpm. Once the idling was smooth, I left the knob alone and reassembled everything.
The engine now fires up better and idles smoothly. It accelerates more gently now. And no need (for the time being) to tinker with the idle/mixture screws in the carburetor. I will eventually have to deal with that, but this is fine for now...
I covered the glove box with aluminum tape before reassembly. While it does not convert the box into a fridge, it help in keeping the compartment a tad cooler. Alas, no good pictures of this.
Now it is time to clean up the tool box compartment and the rear doors. Stay tuned.
Juan
Continued.
The ECU turned out to be an "Electronic Throttle Control Unit," according to the FSM. It reminded me of the governors in the diesel engines I worked with in the field, ages ago.
Part number: 88650-60181. It is a 12V unit. Picture after cleaning it up.
Side view. There is a knob for adjusting idle engine speed. Note the 9-pin connector.
This is the emissions control computer. This Cruiser has EGR piping. I guess this little beast controls the EGR ratio.
Part number: 89550-60360.
Side view.
This is the connector.
I cleaned up, applied dielectric grease and reconnected.
Before reassembly, I turned the RPM knob to L. Then I fired up the engine and checked the idle speed. Using trial and error, I dialed up the knob until the engine idled at the manual's recommended value, 650 - 700 rpm. Once the idling was smooth, I left the knob alone and reassembled everything.
The engine now fires up better and idles smoothly. It accelerates more gently now. And no need (for the time being) to tinker with the idle/mixture screws in the carburetor. I will eventually have to deal with that, but this is fine for now...
I covered the glove box with aluminum tape before reassembly. While it does not convert the box into a fridge, it help in keeping the compartment a tad cooler. Alas, no good pictures of this.
Now it is time to clean up the tool box compartment and the rear doors. Stay tuned.
Juan
- Thread starter
- #25
Hello,
An update.
On early December the radiator developed a leak. It was necessary to pull it out, replace the upper tank and clean up the core. The shop took its time doing it, including some testing. Now it works fine. Nevertheless, just in case I keep a coolant bottle aboard.
It was time to clean the rear doors. This is how the left hand one looked.
I have removed A LOT of dust and crud from this Cruiser, due to the years it spent in storage.
After cleaning.
The right hand door before cleaning.
And after.
Later I had a small problem with the parking brake. More on the next post.
Juan
An update.
On early December the radiator developed a leak. It was necessary to pull it out, replace the upper tank and clean up the core. The shop took its time doing it, including some testing. Now it works fine. Nevertheless, just in case I keep a coolant bottle aboard.
It was time to clean the rear doors. This is how the left hand one looked.
I have removed A LOT of dust and crud from this Cruiser, due to the years it spent in storage.
After cleaning.
The right hand door before cleaning.
And after.
Later I had a small problem with the parking brake. More on the next post.
Juan
- Thread starter
- #26
Hello,
Now the parking brake.
The previous owner had the parking brake shoes replaced (as well as the wheels/tyres and the steering wheel) before selling the truck. However, because of the time under storage, the mechanism lost all its lubricant and became stiff. The shoes were not broken either.
When I had the shop replacing fluids and overhauling the Cruiser, the already hard brake linkage was tightened even further. The mechanics were not to blame, as they did not know the details and worked as per the FSMs procedures.
A few days after the Cruiser returned from the shop, I noticed it was sluggish to drive. I took it for a spin to check the radiator (see previous post) and it was hard to reach 80 km/h. When it finally did, I noticed a burning smell. I pulled over and noticed smoke in the rear wheels, which were hot. The parking brake lever was very tight. I waited until everything cooled down and counted the lever's clicks, which were five.
I loosened the regulator bolt and drove back to home. No more smoke or smell.
After reviewing the FSM, I found that by procedure the car must be driven at around 60 km/h for 400 m with the parking brake on to set the shoes. The sluggishness I experiences was due to improper parking brake adjustment and/or poor lubrication. I may have set the shoes without knowing...
I took away the console and checked. Not only the mechanism was dry and therefore hard to move, there was a lot of dust and objects (namely, the washer and dirty coins) below the lever. This is what I found after cleaning.
This is the view after disassembly.
After cleaning up and lubrication with penetrating oil.
I took the chance to tear apart, wash and clean the center console and the toolbox compartment lid.
The center console after cleaning. The two switches operated a power lock system that was not working. I removed it; the switches remained because they were installed by making two holes in the console.
Continues in the next post.
Juan
Now the parking brake.
The previous owner had the parking brake shoes replaced (as well as the wheels/tyres and the steering wheel) before selling the truck. However, because of the time under storage, the mechanism lost all its lubricant and became stiff. The shoes were not broken either.
When I had the shop replacing fluids and overhauling the Cruiser, the already hard brake linkage was tightened even further. The mechanics were not to blame, as they did not know the details and worked as per the FSMs procedures.
A few days after the Cruiser returned from the shop, I noticed it was sluggish to drive. I took it for a spin to check the radiator (see previous post) and it was hard to reach 80 km/h. When it finally did, I noticed a burning smell. I pulled over and noticed smoke in the rear wheels, which were hot. The parking brake lever was very tight. I waited until everything cooled down and counted the lever's clicks, which were five.
I loosened the regulator bolt and drove back to home. No more smoke or smell.
After reviewing the FSM, I found that by procedure the car must be driven at around 60 km/h for 400 m with the parking brake on to set the shoes. The sluggishness I experiences was due to improper parking brake adjustment and/or poor lubrication. I may have set the shoes without knowing...
I took away the console and checked. Not only the mechanism was dry and therefore hard to move, there was a lot of dust and objects (namely, the washer and dirty coins) below the lever. This is what I found after cleaning.
This is the view after disassembly.
After cleaning up and lubrication with penetrating oil.
I took the chance to tear apart, wash and clean the center console and the toolbox compartment lid.
The center console after cleaning. The two switches operated a power lock system that was not working. I removed it; the switches remained because they were installed by making two holes in the console.
Continues in the next post.
Juan
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #27
Hello,
More on the parking brake.
The parking brake boot after cleanup.
All assembled but the console.
All set up.
I calibrated the parking brake to seven clicks. Then I lubricated all the linkage mechanism. Sorry, no photos of the oil applied on the links and springs.
Once done, I did a test drive. The Cruiser did not feel sluggish at all and reached 80+ km/h without problem -or smell.
I was concerned about braking distance and using the parking brake on slopes. It turned out that the Cruiser stopped in the same distance as before. The parking brake feels smoother and works well on both level surfaces and slopes.
Juan
More on the parking brake.
The parking brake boot after cleanup.
All assembled but the console.
All set up.
I calibrated the parking brake to seven clicks. Then I lubricated all the linkage mechanism. Sorry, no photos of the oil applied on the links and springs.
Once done, I did a test drive. The Cruiser did not feel sluggish at all and reached 80+ km/h without problem -or smell.
I was concerned about braking distance and using the parking brake on slopes. It turned out that the Cruiser stopped in the same distance as before. The parking brake feels smoother and works well on both level surfaces and slopes.
Juan
- Thread starter
- #28
Hello,
Last week I cleaned up the drive train, especially the rear axle. I brushed off dirt, greased and oiled everything. This is the rear right wheel.
This is the rear left wheel after cleanup and lubrication.
When I did the front axle, I noticed two wheel nuts were missing and the rest were either SAE or non-OEM. I replaced them all.
This is a close up of the part number: 90942-01082. It applies for model year 1990 to 1998. From 1999 on, nuts are bigger.
The local parts guy said he has 400+ in stock.
Juan
Last week I cleaned up the drive train, especially the rear axle. I brushed off dirt, greased and oiled everything. This is the rear right wheel.
This is the rear left wheel after cleanup and lubrication.
When I did the front axle, I noticed two wheel nuts were missing and the rest were either SAE or non-OEM. I replaced them all.
This is a close up of the part number: 90942-01082. It applies for model year 1990 to 1998. From 1999 on, nuts are bigger.
The local parts guy said he has 400+ in stock.
Juan
- Thread starter
- #30
Hello,
An update.
After 20 years, the instrument panel bulbs were dim. It was hard to see anything with mid to low ambient light, let alone at night. So I decided to try a LED upgrade, and fix a couple cracks on the panel.
Panel cover and ventilation ducts out. Disconnecting and reconnecting the speedometer cable is a PITA; no wonder that after 1999 everything was made electronic and easier to remove.
Out with the old bulbs. The green cap was dull and brittle in its old age. Do not try to remove it, as it will break in pieces.
I decided to try these white T10/W5W LEDs which I sourced from the local electronics store.
The bulbs tend to stick to their sockets when they age, and brute force is not the way to go. A little silicone oil, left to soak for five minutes, works wonders. Then some dielectric grease and the new bulb is ready.
The above LED is a T10/W5W. There are a few T5 bulbs in the panel, which were also slated for replacement.
These little guys need more oil and soak time for removal than their big brothers. This is the replacement T5 LED.
Continued on the next post.
Juan
An update.
After 20 years, the instrument panel bulbs were dim. It was hard to see anything with mid to low ambient light, let alone at night. So I decided to try a LED upgrade, and fix a couple cracks on the panel.
Panel cover and ventilation ducts out. Disconnecting and reconnecting the speedometer cable is a PITA; no wonder that after 1999 everything was made electronic and easier to remove.
Out with the old bulbs. The green cap was dull and brittle in its old age. Do not try to remove it, as it will break in pieces.
I decided to try these white T10/W5W LEDs which I sourced from the local electronics store.
The bulbs tend to stick to their sockets when they age, and brute force is not the way to go. A little silicone oil, left to soak for five minutes, works wonders. Then some dielectric grease and the new bulb is ready.
The above LED is a T10/W5W. There are a few T5 bulbs in the panel, which were also slated for replacement.
These little guys need more oil and soak time for removal than their big brothers. This is the replacement T5 LED.
Continued on the next post.
Juan
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #31
Hello,
This is the mounted T5 LED. I started with the parking brake light.
The bulb indicated below lights the odometer and (in my experience) burns out frequently. It is not documented properly in the FSM, so here is its location for future reference.
I also found another bulb, which apparently does not light anything, at least not on this model. At first I thought it was burned out but it tested good. No reference about it in the FSM, although on a second review I found a testing procedure for the auxiliary/sub fuel tank that involves it. Anyway, I applied dielectric grease and connected it back into its place. For reference, here it is. I used the empty socket at the left for testing, and the LED was not installed at the time I took the picture.
While installing the LEDs and taking pictures, I accidentally scratched the panel clear plastic. I took it out to polish the scratches and clean it, something badly needed after all these years. Out with the plastic.
Continued on the next post.
Juan
This is the mounted T5 LED. I started with the parking brake light.
The bulb indicated below lights the odometer and (in my experience) burns out frequently. It is not documented properly in the FSM, so here is its location for future reference.
I also found another bulb, which apparently does not light anything, at least not on this model. At first I thought it was burned out but it tested good. No reference about it in the FSM, although on a second review I found a testing procedure for the auxiliary/sub fuel tank that involves it. Anyway, I applied dielectric grease and connected it back into its place. For reference, here it is. I used the empty socket at the left for testing, and the LED was not installed at the time I took the picture.
While installing the LEDs and taking pictures, I accidentally scratched the panel clear plastic. I took it out to polish the scratches and clean it, something badly needed after all these years. Out with the plastic.
Continued on the next post.
Juan
- Thread starter
- #32
Hello,
As mentioned above, I polished the clear plastic covering the gauges. No pictures, sorry.
As the ventilation ducts were out, I took the chance for a simple yet practical upgrade: covering them with aluminum. These are the upper left hand ducts. Aluminum reflects too much light, and it was hard to get a good image.
This is the left hand ventilation duct assembly.
The foam gaskets connecting all these ducts had disintegrated over the years. So I cut new ones from neoprene foam. This is the orange stuff that can be seen in the pictures above. Hopefully, it will last a few years.
Panel and ducts mounted. I put some transparent grease between the gauges and the covers to keep dust away. The gauges got a little penetrant oil, too.
Keep reading.
Juan
As mentioned above, I polished the clear plastic covering the gauges. No pictures, sorry.
As the ventilation ducts were out, I took the chance for a simple yet practical upgrade: covering them with aluminum. These are the upper left hand ducts. Aluminum reflects too much light, and it was hard to get a good image.
This is the left hand ventilation duct assembly.
The foam gaskets connecting all these ducts had disintegrated over the years. So I cut new ones from neoprene foam. This is the orange stuff that can be seen in the pictures above. Hopefully, it will last a few years.
Panel and ducts mounted. I put some transparent grease between the gauges and the covers to keep dust away. The gauges got a little penetrant oil, too.
Keep reading.
Juan
- Thread starter
- #33
Hello,
This is how the finished upgrade looks like in daylight.
Night time view with all lights on.
And this is how it looks under normal night driving conditions.
So far I am pleased with the result. The high beam light is a little too bright but it is tolerable. And it is good to be able to see the rpm gauge again.
Juan
This is how the finished upgrade looks like in daylight.
Night time view with all lights on.
And this is how it looks under normal night driving conditions.
So far I am pleased with the result. The high beam light is a little too bright but it is tolerable. And it is good to be able to see the rpm gauge again.
Juan
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
That looks great Juan!
I will be doing both the LED upgrade and the foil around the ducts as I re assemble.
Thank you and keep up the good work.
I will be doing both the LED upgrade and the foil around the ducts as I re assemble.
Thank you and keep up the good work.
Good work Juan! 
Tor replaced the incandescent bulbs with LEDs on the 73 and it made a great difference for my defective eyeballs.
Tor replaced the incandescent bulbs with LEDs on the 73 and it made a great difference for my defective eyeballs.
- Thread starter
- #36
- Thread starter
- #37
Hello,
It has been a while.
After 20 years, the rear brake cylinder gave up the ghost. Thankfully, the secondary brake circuit still worked and I could make it to the shop for a repair. The cylinder was made by Aisin; somehow I assumed it was made by Toyota.
Then came the yearly inspection and registration for both Cruisers. DMVs are the same everywhere. I wonder if the safety inspectors know what they are doing...
In the meantime, I was waiting for some parts to arrive. Brake and registrations done, it was time to do a couple things.
For some reason, the carbureted 1FZ-F engine does not have accelerator cable brackets, whereas its fuel-injected sibling does. While it might not seem important, this setup makes the accelerator cable hard to tighten. Furthermore, the cable is loose and bangs the power steering fluid reservoir.
After all these years, the cable is still intact but the reservoir's paint has peeled. This is an after picture but the damage can be seen.
So, I ordered the 1FZ-FE brackets. This is the first one, part number 78185-60030.
This particular bracket is also used in other Toyota engines, particularly the 1HZ. This is where it bolts on.
Bracket installed.
Note the EGR duct on the lower left corner. This engine has a rather basic emissions control system that uses exhaust gases to keep the temperature from inducing NOx formation; it also reduces hydrocarbon emissions, from what I found out later. At some point in the past, it loosened from the exhaust manifold. The PO secured it in place using duct tape, as the picture shows. The exhaust reeked of hydrocarbons, something I blamed on the carburetor. Even after cleanup, maintenance and tuning, the smell persisted. I was about to tear the carburetor apart again in an attempt to solve this until I noticed this.
Upon inspection, aside from hardened tape, the duct was still in good condition. I cleaned it up, straightened it, and put it back properly. Alas, no picture. Now the exhaust is less smelly. Exhaust hydrocarbon concentration dropped from 400 ppm (PO title) last year to 140 ppm now, according to DMV measurements; this drop would explain the "scent" I noted and blamed on the carburetor.
A second emissions check and some research showed that the carburetor mixture is just a little bit rich, which is a good setup for the mountain air around here.
Please bear with my ignorance. After a lifetime of diesel and fuel injection engines, this is the first carburetor I deal with since helping Grandpa with his 40 Series ages ago.
More updates later.
Juan
It has been a while.
After 20 years, the rear brake cylinder gave up the ghost. Thankfully, the secondary brake circuit still worked and I could make it to the shop for a repair. The cylinder was made by Aisin; somehow I assumed it was made by Toyota.
Then came the yearly inspection and registration for both Cruisers. DMVs are the same everywhere. I wonder if the safety inspectors know what they are doing...
In the meantime, I was waiting for some parts to arrive. Brake and registrations done, it was time to do a couple things.
For some reason, the carbureted 1FZ-F engine does not have accelerator cable brackets, whereas its fuel-injected sibling does. While it might not seem important, this setup makes the accelerator cable hard to tighten. Furthermore, the cable is loose and bangs the power steering fluid reservoir.
After all these years, the cable is still intact but the reservoir's paint has peeled. This is an after picture but the damage can be seen.
So, I ordered the 1FZ-FE brackets. This is the first one, part number 78185-60030.
This particular bracket is also used in other Toyota engines, particularly the 1HZ. This is where it bolts on.
Bracket installed.
Note the EGR duct on the lower left corner. This engine has a rather basic emissions control system that uses exhaust gases to keep the temperature from inducing NOx formation; it also reduces hydrocarbon emissions, from what I found out later. At some point in the past, it loosened from the exhaust manifold. The PO secured it in place using duct tape, as the picture shows. The exhaust reeked of hydrocarbons, something I blamed on the carburetor. Even after cleanup, maintenance and tuning, the smell persisted. I was about to tear the carburetor apart again in an attempt to solve this until I noticed this.
Upon inspection, aside from hardened tape, the duct was still in good condition. I cleaned it up, straightened it, and put it back properly. Alas, no picture. Now the exhaust is less smelly. Exhaust hydrocarbon concentration dropped from 400 ppm (PO title) last year to 140 ppm now, according to DMV measurements; this drop would explain the "scent" I noted and blamed on the carburetor.
A second emissions check and some research showed that the carburetor mixture is just a little bit rich, which is a good setup for the mountain air around here.
Please bear with my ignorance. After a lifetime of diesel and fuel injection engines, this is the first carburetor I deal with since helping Grandpa with his 40 Series ages ago.
More updates later.
Juan
- Thread starter
- #38
Hello,
Now the second bracket. Part Number 78194-60030.
This is where it bolts on in the 1FZ engine.
Both brackets on.
[EDIT] The cable is easier to work with now. Took the chance to tighten it. On the 1FZ engine, a tight cable helps with fuel mileage.
This small angled head hose cracked and was leaking oil. I ordered a replacement. Part number 12262-66030.
Hose installed. Blurry picture, nightfall had already set in.
Next came the front end. More on this later.
Juan
Now the second bracket. Part Number 78194-60030.
This is where it bolts on in the 1FZ engine.
Both brackets on.
[EDIT] The cable is easier to work with now. Took the chance to tighten it. On the 1FZ engine, a tight cable helps with fuel mileage.
This small angled head hose cracked and was leaking oil. I ordered a replacement. Part number 12262-66030.
Hose installed. Blurry picture, nightfall had already set in.
Next came the front end. More on this later.
Juan
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #39
Hello,
Now the front end.
Registration safety requirements change without notice here. What is legal today is easily outlawed tomorrow; 4WD stuff is particularly affected. One of the contentious items is the bullbar.
So I decided to replace the roobar with the stock bumper.
A few years back I suffered a side encounter (read collision) with an Isuzu D-Max. A scratched fender flare and a slightly bent bumper for me; the D-Max's left front side was not so lucky. Insurance took care of the repairs and offered me the damaged bumper, which I accepted. It came in handy.
The bumper is mounted to the frame using two gussets. This is the left hand one, part number 52117-60010.
This is the right hand gusset, part number 52116-60020.
Roo bar out. Other than dust and grime, frame rails were clean.
Cleaned and primed.
More to come.
Juan
Now the front end.
Registration safety requirements change without notice here. What is legal today is easily outlawed tomorrow; 4WD stuff is particularly affected. One of the contentious items is the bullbar.
So I decided to replace the roobar with the stock bumper.
A few years back I suffered a side encounter (read collision) with an Isuzu D-Max. A scratched fender flare and a slightly bent bumper for me; the D-Max's left front side was not so lucky. Insurance took care of the repairs and offered me the damaged bumper, which I accepted. It came in handy.
The bumper is mounted to the frame using two gussets. This is the left hand one, part number 52117-60010.
This is the right hand gusset, part number 52116-60020.
Roo bar out. Other than dust and grime, frame rails were clean.
Cleaned and primed.
More to come.
Juan
- Thread starter
- #40
Hello,
Mounting points for the bumper. Top.
And bottom.
Side view, mounted left hand gusset. Notice the bolts.
Right hand gusset.
These are the corresponding points in the bumper.
Gussets are intended to bend in the event of a collision, along with the bumper, thus absorbing energy and preventing frame damage. Ask me how I know. I am not familiar with roo bar installation, is it bolted on directly to the frame. The bar I removed certainly was.
Juan
Mounting points for the bumper. Top.
And bottom.
Side view, mounted left hand gusset. Notice the bolts.
Right hand gusset.
These are the corresponding points in the bumper.
Gussets are intended to bend in the event of a collision, along with the bumper, thus absorbing energy and preventing frame damage. Ask me how I know. I am not familiar with roo bar installation, is it bolted on directly to the frame. The bar I removed certainly was.
Juan
